Multicooker design, diagram, troubleshooting and repair

At the dawn of the 21st century, a new household multifunctional electrical appliance for cooking with program control called a Multicooker

. Despite its modest appearance, in a multicooker you can fry, steam, boil, bake, stew, reheat and keep food hot in automatic mode.

I came across a faulty multicooker with a broken lid and an error code on the E1 display. Due to the lack of a PN8024R power supply chip, a non-standard repair method had to be used.

What's inside the miracle - the pot?

The picture shows which wires are on the bottom of the multicooker.
Power is supplied through red wires. The switch (which puts the device into operation) and the thermal fuse (protects against overheating) are installed in series. The voltage from the thermal fuse is supplied to one terminal of the heating element, to the power supply board. The white wire is connected to the power directly. Through it, voltage is supplied to the second terminal of the heating element and closes the relay contacts. Wires that supply voltage and ensure operation

Under the heating element there is a power supply with standard wiring. It is the most loaded part of the multicooker. Its task is to convert the current of 220V to direct current 5V and 12V (the first supplies power to the control unit, and the second – the switching circuit, activates the relay). The home network supplies power to the three-pin connector, which is located at the bottom. A yellow-green wire stands out: this is grounding.

Schematic representation of the internal structure of the Redmond RMC-M23 multicooker

Often, manufacturers install a universal board for the entire model line into the device. Naturally, technological nuances are kept secret, because companies do not count on the introduction of self-taught craftsmen into household appliances. When looking at the photo, an insulated metal round disk catches the eye. This is a battery that, when disconnected from the network, stores preset cooking programs in memory.

In the picture the battery is shown at the bottom (yellow)

Replacing the BatteryCONTENTS

CR2450 button cell battery (diameter 24 mm, thickness 5 mm, lithium, 3 volts) in the location indicated by the arrow 7.

Photo 4. The required battery

First, it was soldered to the petals using one-sided spot welding, then the petals were soldered into the board, and in order to make its replacement as difficult as possible, the manufacturers filled this place with a heap of fairly strong glue. In order not to mess with the glue and not unscrew the power supply board, we pick off the contact petals from the dead battery with a knife (or cut it off with a chisel, or tear it off with pliers).

It was not possible to find such a large replacement battery... I’ve never seen anything like this on sale in my life! Therefore, idea No. 1: we use 2 AA-size batteries of 1.5 volts each. We hang on a hook (there is one for wires, position 6. ) a block of two batteries (we fasten them together with a clamp towards each other; on one side we solder wires to ➕ one and ➖ the other), which we solder with wires to those sticking out of the board petals, observing the polarity (there is a marking on the board ➕). If you don’t have a soldering iron, you can solve everything with tape (super life hack idea No. 2 ):

Ill. 1. Replacing the coin cell battery with 2 finger batteries using tape

1. We fasten the batteries with tape across them.
2. Using a winding tape, we press some metal plate or piece of solid wire longitudinally in the middle to connect the batteries in series.
3. We press the exposed ends of the double wire with two more rolls of tape. The ends of the wires on the other side are exposed long. The plus wire is marked red.
4. We wrap the ends of the wires around the petals on the board and crimp them with tape for insulation.

Measurements have shown that in order for the clock to stop ticking, the battery must discharge to 2.30 volts. When the voltage across it is 2.50 V, the screen actually does not light up, but the clock runs. The current consumption at a voltage of 3.2 V is 24 µA, therefore, when using a battery with a capacity of, say, 1 A/h, we have 40 thousand hours of operation - that’s 4.5 years.

Sudden idea No. 3: what if, to two AA batteries that have run down to 1.25 volts, we add another one of the same 1.25-volt battery that has run out in another device? Well, let's do this:

Photo 5.

Barathea from 3 AA elements of 1.25 volts
Photo 6.
How the display shines from three run down elements

It turned out... and it’s great: the voltage on such a battery is 3.8 volts, the display glows very brightly (see Photo 6). It seems that such a battery will be discharged to 2.30 volts for about 2 years. And in general, this is an excellent topic on how to fuse batteries that are not yet dead in other devices (it’s a pity to throw them away - they’re expensive, a whole $1 of the United States per unit). are worth).

Expected idea No. 4: install an ionistor instead of a battery:

Photo 7.

Super capacitor 5.5 V x 4 F

Photo 7.
Eternal battery in action

Such an ionistor for 4 farads and 5.5 volts costs about $0.7 [lot on Aliexpress], that is, cheaper than one 1.5-volt battery from Ill. 1 and Photo 5/6. The Schottky diode next to the battery must be closed with a resistor (see Photo 7; why? - see Diagram 1 below).

Based on the theory/datasheets of the operation of ionistors, such an ionistor needs to be charged with a current of 100 μA for 24 hours to minimize its self-discharge and increase its service life, therefore [in Photo 7] a 36 kOhm resistor is installed. But with a discharge current of ~25 μA, we get a charge-discharge time ratio of 1:4, i.e., for 5 hours the multicooker runs from the mains and the ionistor is charged, then the ionistor powers the display and the clock for the remaining 24 hours. If the multicooker is used not for 5 hours every day, but, for example, for 4 hours a week, then we install a 3.6 kOhm resistor - this is worse for the health of the ionistor... well, to hell with it, it’s cheap. (In the end I set it to 1 kOhm.)

Now, just for fun, let’s study the remaining components of the multicooker.

Typical errors and their characteristics

Each multicooker model has a user manual, which shows possible causes of errors and the inability to continue operation.

In some cases, the same code may indicate several malfunctions at once, so this factor must be taken into account.

Before you take your multicooker in for repair, you can try to find out what exactly is the reason. The following tip will help with this.

Expert opinion Pavel Maksimovich Torsunov

In some cases, errors cannot be resolved on your own or their code is displayed incorrectly. Then you cannot do without qualified repair specialists. Initially, you need to understand what could trigger the appearance of a particular code on the display and try to eliminate this reason as far as possible.

E1

This error occurs in three cases:

1. There is a hole in the bowl through which the liquid enters the heating element.
2. Foreign objects and food residues get on the heating element, which causes combustion processes.
3. Malfunction of the ten itself and its burnout.

To make sure the heater is working properly, it is recommended to unplug the multicooker, carefully open the lid and remove the bowl. Next, plug the plug into the outlet and control the heating process. Its absence provides the answer to why the E1 code appeared.

E2

This problem most often occurs due to a break in certain parts of the cable, the connection of which to the multicooker does not cause it to turn on. You can check this reason by connecting an alternative cable (you can ask your friends or neighbors). If the device works when it is connected, then the reason has been found.

Sometimes E2 appears when the thermal sensor located at the top is shorted. It is recommended to open the lid, carefully remove the bowl and observe the operation of the heating element when the plug is plugged in. If the error appears again when closing the lid, then the malfunction has been found.

E3

The most common mistake that occurs is when the lid is not tightly closed. In some models it is accompanied by a characteristic sound signal.

It also appears when liquid gets on the heating element. It is necessary to carefully remove the bowl and look at its condition from below. Perhaps crumbs, small particles of vegetables, cereals have stuck to it.

E4

The most difficult error, as it indicates a malfunction in the central board, which regulates all processes of the multicooker. The second reason is a malfunction of the pressure sensor. Only a specialist can find the problem and fix it.

E5

If the machine is used throughout the day and the heating element experiences increased loads, the automation is triggered, which provokes a forced shutdown. This is necessary to prevent the heating element from burning out prematurely.

Operating rules

The main cause of malfunctions is failure to comply with basic rules for using the device. As a rule, this is due to liquid and food particles getting inside the device.

When preparing food, anyone can be inattentive, rush too much, while forgetting about the safety of using the multicooker. Experts say that following two simple rules can reduce the risk of device failure:

1. Milk, water and any other liquid must be poured into a heated bowl, provided that it is inside the device. Inattention in this case leads to liquid getting on the circuits and other important parts of the multicooker.
2. You should also put food inside if there is a bowl in the appliance. Otherwise, breakdown cannot be avoided.

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Design and principle of operation

All blenders are divided into several categories, which differ from each other in design and method of use, as well as different attachments and functionality. To effectively and correctly carry out repairs, you should understand the design features.

Stationary

Stationary varieties look like small food processors and are bowls with knives rotating inside. As a rule, the knives are installed at the bottom of the bowl. The device is desktop and does not need to be held during operation. This blender model is capable of grinding a large portion of food at a time.

The main disadvantage of stationary devices is the need to allocate a lot of storage space. In addition, some models do not chop vegetables well and grind them into crumbs or leave too large pieces. In terms of repairs, stationary equipment is much easier to disassemble and repair compared to submersible equipment.

Manual (submersible)

Hand blenders are shaped like a long handle with a cutting end. The nozzle is lowered into the container with the products, the device is turned on and held until the grinding process is completed. Due to their compact size, submersible devices do not require much storage space in the kitchen. The ability to change attachments significantly expands the list of food preparations.

This creates discomfort during long-term cooking. Also, the device is not suitable for stirring large portions of food.

Heating elementsCONTENTS

5. The cord-heater around the tank looks exactly the same as in the photo above. Also glued with foil. But its resistance is 1240 Ohms, respectively, the power is 40 W. Connects to the network via a triac BT134.

3. Main disk heating element with a hole in the center:

Photo 9. Lower main heating element

Power 860 W, resistance 54 Ohm, connected to the network via an electromagnetic relay. Therefore, while the multicooker is operating, “something” (namely the relay) clicks all the time.

How to completely disassemble a multicooker? Full scheme of actions

There are temperature sensors in the lid and bottom of the product - therefore, you need to disassemble the multicooker with extreme caution so as not to disturb these delicate wiring. One wire is connected to the touch screen

A lot depends on these parts - they are the “brain” of the device. Due to damage to the temperature sensors, programs and cooking modes may fail. Moreover, the kitchen assistant may not turn on because the required set of heat indicators does not occur.

Preparation

• The device is disconnected from the network, wait until it cools down completely.
• Wipe the lid from grease with a soft cloth.
• If the grease cannot be scrubbed off, use mild dishwashing detergents without abrasives.
• Wipe the lid dry.

Removable element on a screw

Operating procedure

• The cover of the electrical appliance is opened.
• In the area of ​​the lid there are two plastic latches. You need to press on them and push towards the center.
• The upper sector is pulled towards itself, and then sharply down.
• All internal parts are thoroughly washed to remove food debris.
• To put the part in place, perform the reverse steps. If everything is installed correctly, the clips will click when seated correctly.

If the product is broken and you need to see the internal parts, but the master does not know how to carefully disassemble the multicooker, then:

• First of all, wipe all contaminated areas of the product with a rag.
• The electrical appliance is turned upside down.
• The bottom cover is held in place by a screw, unscrew it. Dismantle the bottom.

Removing the lower part

• All removable wires going to the board are disconnected.
• Unscrew the screws holding the heating element.
• Remove the thermocouple and all microcircuits.
• Unscrew the screw holding the top cover (when the model does not provide for removal). Then, press the cover with a screwdriver and remove the temperature sensors.
• Remove the plastic rings on the latches (if there are any at the edges of the metal case).
• The inner walls are taken out from the outer ones.

Is there anything in the lid? CONTENTS

2. and 4. Wires going into the cover:

Photo 6. On the left are 2 black wires and 1 yellow, on the right are 2 blue

The yellow wire on the left is ground. The black wires on the left are the temperature sensor in the lid (there in the lid it is glued to the lower aluminum part of the lid using sticky aluminum foil):

Photo 7. Temperature sensor from the lid

(The wires are randomly blue here because this sensor is from the M70 model, and the previous photo is M45011).

This temperature sensor, exactly the same as in the “button” below, is an NTC thermistor (the resistance of which is lower, the higher its temperature) in a glass shell. The resistance of this resistor at 25°C is 50 kOhm.

The blue wires on the right (in Photo 6) power the cord heater (tubular electric heater in the form of a cord) in the lid, which was also glued to the lower aluminum part of the lid using adhesive aluminum foil.

Photo 8. Cord-heater from the lid

Resistance 2.8K (17 W, taking into account the fact that it is powered from 220 volts). Connects to 220V network via triac BT131.

Where to find and how to replace the thermal fuse

Several thermal fuses are always located in the middle of the multicooker, no matter what brand it is. They are located behind the cambrics that cover the plume. In every multicooker, the cambrics are located in plain sight. In some models they can be assembled into a clamp, but more often they are not fixed in any way.

If you are repairing a Philips multicooker, you can unscrew the bottom of the device with your own hands and find the fuses.

Under the saucepan there is a knot that looks like a massive metal mushroom, supported from below by a spring. If you disassemble the multicooker, you will find fuses around this mushroom.

Thermal fuses should only be attached using clamps. For obvious reasons, you cannot solder them.

Controller board, MCU

9. Under the power supply board there is a controller (control) board:

Photo 13. Controller board

On one side of this board: display, buttons, tweeter (see Photo 12). On the other side:

Photo 14.

M70 controller board
Photo 15.
M45011 controller board

We see that the Redmond M70 multicooker uses a Samsung 3F9488XZZ microcontroller (MK) [datasheet] (8-bit CMOS Microcontroller F9488; 8 KB program memory), the M45011 has a better MK: ABOV MC96F6432Q [datasheet] (advanced CMOS 8-bit microcontroller MC96F6432 ; 32 KB FLASH program memory, 256 bytes IRAM, 768 bytes XRAM and generally complete stuffing). The pinout of the cable to the board in both models is identical and the 3.6 and 12 V power supply through it is also the same.

Update 01/05/2018

So far (over 5 years of operation) nothing has broken... except for the battery landing/replacement. So the device turned out to be ok.

Repair cost

Redmond multicookers are among the most popular in their class in Russia.

Many service centers offer repair of these devices as a separate service. How much does it cost to repair a Redmond multicooker? In most Russian services, the repair price varies from 650 to 1,500 rubles, depending on the complexity of the breakdown. The cost of repairs usually does not include the price of parts. The cost of diagnostics is usually not included in the cost of repairs indicated in the price lists of services.

In most cases, only after diagnostics are carried out, the exact cost of repairs is determined by the service center technician.

What to do if the multicooker breaks down - try to fix it yourself or use the services of a service center, of course, is up to you to decide. We hope this article will help you make the right decision.

Appliance cover

Today we will tell you how to repair the Redmond multicooker. We will try to fix the lid with our own hands.

This is a standard breakdown for most types of multicookers. Damage to this cover is due to planned aging, that is, the manufacturer deliberately makes it unreliable. The finger on the button broke... The lid moved as a result of the temperature... The rods reach special grooves and the lid is inserted, but a few millimeters are missing...

We will need small magnets and will make a magnetic lid that closes, is held on by magnets and is opened under force. You need to glue 4 magnets - two on the lid and on the body of the multicooker itself. The multicooker bowl is pre-removable.

We select the points where we will glue the magnets. Degrease the surface with alcohol. First, apply high-quality glue to selected points on the body and press the magnets. Let's wait until the glue dries. Now, not forgetting to respect the poles of the magnets, glue them to the lid. In this case, it is more convenient to apply glue directly to the magnet. If there is a need and the height of the magnets is insufficient, you need to glue two magnets on top of each other. Here we are already acting empirically.

This, of course, is not the most common way to solve the problem of a broken multicooker lid latch. Basically, experts solve it by replacing the handle, if the mounting points are not damaged, but the handle itself is broken. Or, as an alternative, drill holes in the handle and fix it with screws. The choice is yours.

This is interesting: Why the vacuum cleaner began to work loudly: causes of malfunction, how to repair

How to disassemble and remove the cover

Models with a removable handle (using the example of SkyCooker M40S):

1. Turn and remove the steam valve.
2. Insert a plastic card by widening the gap between the top and aluminum covers.
3. Slide the card into the slot until you hear a click. The sound means the card has pushed out the latch.
4. Insert the second card and remove the second stop.
5. Remove the first card and press out the remaining two latches.
6. Remove the plastic cover.
7. Place the appliance with its back facing up and remove the condensate container. It comes out easily, without clicks or screws. Underneath there is a plug that hides the loop and wires.
8. Loosen the screws in the plug and remove it.
9. Lift the lid and pull the metal bar out of the holders.

In such models, a thermistor is located under the aluminum panel of the inner cover. It is attached with double-sided tape or glue and covered with foil. The wires from it (blue in a white additional braid and yellow - ground) pass under the plug, go down into the case and stretch to the board located at the bottom of the structure.

The wires are constantly bent and often break, which leads to error “E2”. The multicooker turns on, understands commands, but stops heating, displaying a failure message immediately after pressing the “Start” key.

Models with a key using the Redmond RMC-M4500 as an example:

1. To clean the steam valve, you need to remove the plastic box on top of the lid.
2. Then remove the valve from it and wash both components.
3. The aluminum cover of models in this series is secured with screws - they need to be unscrewed to remove the part.

The lid snaps into place thanks to a key-valve, which is secured in a recess on the body with two spikes. The latter quite often break or wear out. As experts on the forums note, this is “planned wear”, forcing buyers to change the device to a more modern one.

Redmond RMC-M70:

1. The valve is dismantled in the same way as the previous model.
2. The aluminum liner is attached to two clamp clamps. They need to be squeezed simultaneously or one by one, and the lid can be easily removed.

Model Redmond RMC-250:

1. Remove the aluminum cover by pressing the three clips around the circumference.
2. Remove the steam valve. The difference between the model is that this part is located inside and not outside. When sliding into place, the valve should snap into place on the stopper.

How to fix a key lock

Since the key is mounted on two pins, the most logical thing to do if they malfunction is to increase the protrusions. To do this, wire is fused into the key or nails/screws of suitable length and diameter are driven.

An easier way is to put screws on the lid or glue metal plates, and small flat magnets with sufficient adhesive force to the body.

Modern models of Redmond multicookers can be disassembled as simply as possible. The manufacturer recommends regularly removing and cleaning the steam valve and the aluminum inner lid. Older models are more difficult to disassemble, but in quite accessible ways. Take proper care of your multicooker so that it does not spoil the aroma of your dishes and lasts longer.

Cleaning inside

The interior of the multicooker consists of:

• heating element;
• bowls.

You need to wash the internal surfaces as carefully as possible, since there is a heating element at the bottom. Before cleaning the equipment, you should unplug it and wait until it cools down.

Then you can wash the multicooker.

The heating element must be carefully wiped with a dry cloth. If fat or food has stuck to it, you need to wet a napkin, remove any remaining food, and then wipe the bottom dry so as not to cause the appearance of pathogenic bacteria.

Regular baking soda will help to wash the inside of the multicooker. You need to dissolve it in water, then soak a rag in this mixture and clean the walls and bottom. After this, you need to dry the device for 2-3 days.

The most used element of a multicooker is the bowl. Therefore, it must be cleaned constantly - after each meal preparation. Typically, bowls are made of stainless steel or aluminum and then coated with a non-stick layer. This coating reacts very poorly to loads, so it is strictly forbidden to wash the bowl in the dishwasher or with hard sponges and powders.

You can wash it with dish gel or gentle gels that work well on oily surfaces without harming them. There are professional products that are designed to clean non-stick coatings. There is no need to skimp, because they will cope with the task efficiently and accurately.

Do not forget that any impact - a blow or other damage - can damage the bowl.

After washing, all internal elements must be dried very well so as not to cause corrosion and fungus, as well as the spread of bacteria.

Multicooker "Redmond RMC-M22"

Malfunction: there is no indication, the multicooker does not respond to control buttons. Let's start disassembling and try to repair multicookers with our own hands. After unscrewing the screws on the bottom, disconnect the lower part of the stand from the base. We get access to the power supply, switching circuit and several functional elements. Unscrew the 4 screws of the power board.

We inspect the transformer for the presence of solder joints and tracks. We test the transformer windings with a multimeter. If the transformer is broken, replace the thermal fuse after unsoldering it. We call diode bridges, transistor. We replace elements and parts when breaks are detected.

Another option for repairing multicookers with your own hands with a “won’t turn on” fault, which generates an alphanumeric error code. Deciphering the codes allows a technician who knows them to understand the cause of the malfunction and begin to eliminate it.

For example, the code “e0-e4” displayed on the screen indicates malfunctions associated with short circuits and breaks in temperature sensors. They are located on the top or bottom of the multicooker. There may be a problem with thermal fuses, we have already discussed them above. Different manufacturers have their own codes. It is necessary to remove the multicooker body and use a multimeter to look for an open circuit, measuring the level of resistance. Then eliminate the detected breaks by replacing or repairing the necessary elements.

Multi-pressure cookers

Multicookers with a pressure cooker function are valued by housewives for their very fast cooking time, additional modes and the possibility of canning.

REDMOND RMC-PM380

Feature overview:

• volume for a large family – 6 liters;
• power 1000 W;
• “Multi-Chef Light” mode, which provides about 1000 settings;
• cooking programs. It is also possible to adjust the pressure for cooking and turn off auto-heating;
• products are prepared under vacuum, without access to oxygen;
• stylish black design;
• 14 automatic auto-cooking programs. It is also possible to set the mode and temperature manually.

REDMOND RMC-PM400

Main options:

• volume 5 liters;
• PRESSURE COOKER mode: 6 automatic programs, heating temperature more than 100 degrees;
• MULTICOOKER mode: 7 auto programs, the ability to prepare yogurt, bread and mulled wine;
• “Masterchef light”: the ability to automatically install cooking programs.

REDMOND RMC P350

Main features:

• volume 5 liters;
• 14 automatic programs, it is possible to set the program manually, change the pressure, turn off auto-heating;
• bowl with non-stick environmental coating.

When purchasing, you will receive a book with 200 recipes as a gift.

REDMOND RMC-PM503

Characteristics:

• bowl volume – 5 liters;
• combines a multicooker and a pressure cooker;
• 15 automatic programs: 9 in multicooker mode, 6 in pressure cooker mode;
• built-in “Masterchef light” function. It allows you to prepare yogurt, baked goods, deep-frying and sauce;
• built-in pressure and temperature control functions;
• products are prepared without access to oxygen.

There are smoke and pressure sensors in the chamber.

REDMOND RMC-PM504

There are 15 automatic cooking programs. Includes pressure cooker function.

There is a BABY FOOD mode, which will ensure gentle and high-quality preparation of food for your babies.

Automatic heating turns on immediately after the multicooker cools down to 80 degrees.

REDMOND RMC-PM381

The model includes the functions of a multicooker and a pressure cooker. Built-in 13 automatic programs.

You can prepare yoghurts, stew vegetables, and prepare preserves. You can change the time, temperature and pressure when cooking.

Built-in automatic heating function. Also, using remote control, you can turn on or off auto-heating, as well as start the device.

Ideal for preparing healthy and dietary dishes using an electric grill.

REDMOND RMC-PM503

Bowl volume – 5 liters. Multifunctional. Combines a multicooker and a pressure cooker. There are 15 automatic programs: 9 in multicooker mode, 6 in pressure cooker mode.

Built-in “Masterchef Light” function. Allows you to prepare yogurt, baked goods, deep-frying and sauce. Built-in pressure and temperature control functions.

Products are prepared without access to oxygen. There are smoke and pressure sensors in the chamber.

REDMOND RMC-M110

It is a multicooker-pressure cooker. There are cooking modes for various dishes.

You can set the time when the multicooker starts cooking. You don't have to be at home to do this.

REDMOND RMC-PM4506

This model combines the functions of a multicooker and a pressure cooker.

You can bake, stew and cook soups. It has basic functionality that allows you to maintain the temperature for heating food.

How to repair a latch

Maxwell multicookers are often brought to service centers with the same problem for repair. Few people dare to repair household appliances with their own hands, but there is nothing wrong with that.

To repair the latch, you need to prepare epoxy resin, a needle and a screw, the length of which is from 10 to 15 mm.

This part is initially held in the device body using two small plastic axes. These axles cannot withstand the pressure exerted on them forever; sooner or later they break. The debris remains inside the holes in which the axles rotated. The first thing to do is take them out of there.

On the burner of a gas stove, heat the needle red-hot, holding it with tongs or pliers.

You need to drill a hole in the latch with a thin drill. It is necessary to drill where the axles previously “grew” from. The diameter of the drill should be smaller than that of the prepared screw.

When drilling, try not to disturb the stiffening rib, which is located inside the latch. Drill only into the outer wall.

Screw the screw into the resulting hole, trying to make sure that it is oriented with respect to the latch at an angle of 90 degrees, otherwise you will get a broken axis.

Remove the screw, dip it in epoxy, and screw it back in. Allow the resin to cure and install the latch in its proper place. The screw will take on the role of the broken axis, and the multicooker will last for a long time.

A little about Redmond

The Redmond multicooker also has thermal fuses that serve to protect the device from overheating. These parts do an excellent job with the function assigned to them, but there is one very significant BUT - they can do it only once. After this, you will have to seek the help of a specialist at a service center. Here's an extract from the warranty card:

Since there are often cases when owners turned on devices without a saucepan, this is quite important to know. However, the device has a button, which in theory should prevent the device from turning on without it, but it simply does not work at Redmond

If, through carelessness or forgetfulness, you did not put the saucepan in place and poured the ingredients into it, poured the required amount of liquid and forgot to unplug the device from the network, and then use paper towels to remove all moisture and food, but the device stopped working, according to the manufacturers, the fault will be lie on you. This is justified by the fact that if these things get into the cavity of the device, the warranty does not apply, and you will have to pay for expensive repairs out of your own pocket.

Which brand of multicooker is better to choose: Philips, Redmond or Moulinex

Why is a thermal fuse installed for a multicooker?

The thermal fuse is a kind of wire element that resembles a resistor in appearance. Its main function is to protect the multicooker from overheating.

Thanks to the thermal fuse, you can significantly extend the life of the multicooker.

Not a single multicooker electrical circuit is complete without thermal fuses. They are usually located inside the device. Usually there are several of them, and you have to figure out which one burned out. To do this, you need to check the elements using a multimeter, which should measure the resistance. And if it is not there, the part needs to be replaced.

Reasons for the thermal fuse to burn out:

• Malfunctions of the power supply and switching;
• Sudden voltage changes;
• Malfunction of the control unit.

Thermal fuses can be of several types. Popular types are cpgxld or ldcpg. The operating voltage of such elements is usually designed for 250V, the operating current capacity is 10A or 15A. A number with a degree sign usually indicates at what temperature this element will operate. For example, at 167 °C.

As a rule, these parts are not restored, that is, they operate once, after which a new part must be installed.

Chip

A typical multicooker has two electronic boards:

1. Power.
2. Management.

The first is directly next to the bottom. To achieve the second, you will have to completely disassemble the multicooker and remove the inner cylindrical surface.

Microcircuits are inspected carefully. What malfunctions can we notice with the naked eye? Signs of problems will include:

• soot;
• peeling and tearing of tracks;
• violation of solder seams;
• blackened resistors;
• swollen capacitors.

Defective items must be replaced immediately. It is easier to restore soldering. Repair of board tracks is carried out by cleaning with scratch paper and tinning the damage. Sometimes jumpers are added, easy to make from resistor legs. Fill the result of the work with varnish. Otherwise, the leak will end badly for the multicooker. Repairs will become a dire necessity. The varnish protects the metal from water and oxygen - the main enemies of conductors.

Features of disassembly from different manufacturers

When disassembling the device, you need to take into account the design features. Equipment from different manufacturers has distinctive features.

"Brown"

The main feature of Braun blenders is that during disassembly the engine is removed along with the control system. If this does not happen, you need to pull the edge of the board with pliers.

"Philips"

In Philips devices, there is a cover on the back end, under which there are 2 screws for the power cord. They hold the engine and do not allow it to be removed from the other side.

"Bosch"

To disassemble Bosch devices, just use a screwdriver. Having lifted the case and removed the latches, all that remains is to unscrew the screws to gain access to the mechanisms.

"Kenwood"

The process of disassembling Kenwood blenders is similar to unwinding Bosch appliances. Using a screwdriver, you need to break through the gluing area and walk along the entire casing. Then disassembly is continued from the reverse side, prying the regulator handle in several places.

Polaris

When disassembling devices from, you need to unscrew all visible screws. After removing the fastening, it is possible to separate the parts of the housing and gain access to the internal structure.

Vitek

The halves of the Vitek blender body are secured with latches. The main retaining screw is located under the switch, which can be removed by prying with a screwdriver.

Nuances and subtleties of the disassembly process

When considering the Redmond model range, it can be established that the manufacturer takes care of the appearance of household appliances and reliably masks all screws and bolts. If we take a middle-class multicooker from this company as an example, you will find that there are screws on the body for decoration. They play only an aesthetic role. The main ones are securely hidden under plastic.

On some models (Mirta, Polaris, Redmond, Vitek, etc.), the screws holding the top with a triangular hole. The most common mistake of beginners in repair is to arm yourself with a cross, apply force, and put pressure on the body.

Mechanical impact causes dents to form, which worsen the external condition of the device. Therefore, it is wiser to use a triangular socket screwdriver in this case, the length of which is from 100 to 120 mm.

Stylish design from Vitek

The flagship level device is produced by Moulinex. The build quality is solid. The main advantage is the ease of removing the inner cover. The entire removable structure is supported by a silicone insert, which, due to its elasticity, tightly holds the parts. This design is more aesthetically pleasing than external screws.

Advanced model from Moulinex

Disassembling the Redmond home multicooker

Below we will look at the features of Redmond multicookers. Let's bypass the expensive models - we believe, not everyone has them - let's go with the standard one, sold at a reasonable price. Typical set of programs, average cost, uncomplicated appearance.

The Redmond home multicooker is distinguished by the complete absence of external screws. Improves appearance. The body consists of a plastic bottom, surrounded by a rim with a metal wall. It's not the screws that attach it to the base (hidden by an intricate label explaining the warranty period, forget it - the decor), it's the plastic teeth. To prevent the paper from being soaked by cooking fumes, it is carefully covered with a transparent piece of plastic. Good - food won't stain the paper. Therefore, the Redmond home multicooker will look great. It is easier to wash the case; liquid products are allowed without fear of losing the warranty.

One screw is cross-shaped, the second is equipped with a triangular hole. Reminiscent of an Egyptian pyramid only with fewer faces. Moreover, the standard nozzle has three slots and a spacing angle of 120 degrees. You will definitely rip off the head. Avoid pressing, otherwise the wall of the Redmond home multicooker will bend inward and the presentation will be lost. The foresight is admirable, causing slight contempt for the ingenuity of the designers. Insert both screws triangular, making access difficult. A non-standard head is more expensive; a single screw is not enough to hold the walls in place. Delightful, thought out to the smallest detail, the repairmen cannot be stopped! A triangular bolt is secured from the inside with a nut to the wall. The bottom is simply glued, sits on plastic teeth (when you first get acquainted with the equipment, without knowing the features, you will rip off the head and lose your warranty).

From the bottom, the cover is attached with one screw to the inner shell of the case using a bracket, you get a sandwich:

1. Bottom.
2. External walls.
3. Internal walls of the working compartment.

The bottom is made of plastic, glued to the outer walls of a thin sheet of steel. Rolled onto itself to form a cylinder. Easily bends and breaks. The inner walls of the body are formed of high-quality steel, durable, and shaped like a bowl larger than the one in which you cook. There is a hole in the middle of the bottom where the main button wire goes. The heating element is a washer (a figuratively cut disk) that is attached to the compartment with three screws equipped with locking washers. One contact goes to the plug connector, the second comes from the switching power supply board, which houses the relay controlled by the central circuit.

To attach the main button to the heating element disk, there is a steel cylinder to which the die is attached. There is a spring between it and the main button. The Redmond multicooker has two sensors. The first one chose the lid (top), the second one from the bottom. The first one is hidden between the walls. There are three conductors under the plastic loop:

The latter is necessary in case steam gets inside. For lovers of experiments, we inform you: if the main button is covered with cereal, damage will take time to appear. The heating element's disk hangs over the void. To the side, at the edge of the bottom, there is a power board on four stands. Located at a certain height from the surface with the electronic filling down. In addition, the top is protected by a flat lid. There are holes in the bottom of the Redmond home multicooker, so if you spill liquid, there is a high probability that the table will get wet. Closes the plug, socket. The current will immediately go to ground if the device is connected correctly. Otherwise, as long as the fuses burn out, households will suffer. Please note: liquid has spilled inside, avoid handling with your hands at the same time:

1. Wet table, battery.
2. Home multicooker housing, kitchen faucet.
3. Bowl, gas pipe.

It is dangerous to approach a home multicooker while power is available. It’s safer to turn off the switch on the access panel, the automatic distribution box, than to risk your life. Stop trying to pull out the plug, it may become dangerous.

There is also step voltage. The cook should avoid potential touching. They move away from the place of breakdown of a cable laid underground in a goose step. The heel of the forward leg is placed against the toe of the standing leg. Security is ensured. Along the path, the current forms a potential difference on the surface. The voltage drops uniformly along the length. The longer the step, the higher the potential difference between the legs. The probability of breakdown of the insulation represented by the soles of shoes increases, and a person will receive an electric shock. The principle works in the kitchen until the fuses burn out or the dangerous appliance is not turned off automatically.

Changing thermal fuses

One or more thermal fuses are always located in the middle of the product, no matter what manufacturer the multicooker is, for example, from Panasonic. They are covered with cambrics, which in individual products are assembled into a common clamp, but most often they are not fixed.

Under the bowl in the multicooker there is a special unit, visually similar to a metal mushroom, which is supported by a spring from below: various fuses are located around it, you can get to them and fix them only by unscrewing the fastenings of the bottom cover.

When replacing a thermal fuse, only clamps are used: they cannot be soldered, because they are very sensitive to any increase in temperature. You can check the condition of the fuses using a tester to find out which one has blown.

Another temperature sensor is located in the lid; you can check it without opening the plastic device again: just measure its resistance while heating the lid. If there is no change in resistance, then you will have to disassemble and carry out unscheduled repairs of the multicooker lid and replace the part.

Every user should know that thermal fuses cannot be repaired; their specific purpose is to burn out when there is a sharp rise in temperature.

Replacement or contact a specialist

It is possible to replace the component yourself if you follow the instructions. If you are unsure of the correct replacement, it is better to contact a specialized center. Professional help will cost more, but will help quickly resolve the problem.

If the device stops

When the blender stops working, you need to carry out diagnostics to understand the reasons for the incorrect operation. In most situations, the problem can be eliminated without repair or replacement of components.

If there is a buzzing

A quiet humming sound after the blender starts means that the motor is working properly, but the unit cannot start spinning the blade. In this situation, you need to remove the bowl and use your fingers or a small screwdriver to press the button that blocks the mechanism from starting.

If it doesn’t work even with the lock released

Problems with starting even when the lock is disabled indicate a malfunction in the motor winding. With this problem, there is a high probability that one or more windings have burned out, resulting in the motor breaking down and requiring replacement. Often the cost of a new motor is comparable to purchasing a new blender, so in many situations it is not cost-effective to replace.

If there are no signs of life

Situations when the blender does not respond when turned on may indicate various malfunctions. To determine the specific cause of the problem, you will need to perform diagnostics.

Checking the outlet voltage

First of all, you need to make sure that the electrical outlet is in good condition. To do this, just connect any other device. If it works normally, then the reason is not a defective socket, and you need to continue diagnostics.

Checking the cord

The next stage of inspection is to inspect the electrical cord. In practice, it is often chafed or damaged from the inside. To diagnose, you need to disassemble the blender body and remove the cord, which is fixed inside to a special block using screws or soldering. You can check the integrity of the cord with a voltmeter. The resistance level should be close to zero. If you do not have a voltmeter, you can take a new cord, connect it in place of the old one and connect it to the network. If the problem persists, the problem is not related to the cord.

Checking the fuse

If there is a fuse in the blender, you also need to check it. The fuse is removed from the socket, and if it fails, the thread inside the housing will be broken. Repairing a component is quite difficult, so it is best to replace it if it breaks. All technical characteristics are indicated on the fuse body, according to which you can easily select a similar part.

If the new fuse fails instantly

If the working fuse blows immediately after connecting the blender to the mains, it indicates a short circuit. The problem is a malfunction of the control unit or engine. In this situation, you need to connect individual units to the network and monitor the result. To check the voltage level you will need an ammeter. If the voltage value is significantly higher than the nominal value, then the source of the problem has been identified.

Visual inspection of the printed circuit board

Comprehensive diagnostics also involve inspecting the printed circuit board. Most often, capacitors fail, and this can be visually seen by their swelling. When a resistor burns out, its surface becomes dark. During inspection, you need to make sure that the connecting tracks on the board do not have breaks or peeling that occur during a short circuit. If such defects are discovered, the electronic unit will need to be replaced.

Internet of Things REDMOND

The Ready for Sky app allows you to control all REDMOND Smart Home appliances

In 2014, REDMOND multicookers began to have remote program launch and control based on a single technological platform - an application for iOS and Android from the Singaporean company Ready for Sky (R4S).

Since the distributed distribution system involves a huge number of models and modifications of devices, it turned out to be unprofitable to produce individual smart devices and developers focused on a common cloud service for everyone.

The Russian market became the pilot market for the launch of the entire line of smart appliances REDMOND Smart Home. Smart home devices have received a good response, despite the stereotype about the conservatism of the Russian consumer.

The future of REDMOND looks innovative.

However, several countries were considered as such pilot markets for the project, and despite the difficult economic situation at that moment, the decision was made in favor of Russia, where the brand has gained wide popularity among consumers and has long been perceived as one of its own.

The support and willingness of consumers in Russia to provide constructive feedback on the ease of use of technology helps improve smart solutions.

Currently, about 70 different types of REDMOND smart household appliances are sold on the Russian market. The line includes smart sockets, climate control equipment (heaters, humidifiers, fans), water heaters, irons and the entire range of existing cooking equipment (from grills to ovens). A full range of gadgets for all tasks.

One REDMOND service combines a wide variety of equipment.

In Russia, new features are being introduced first (SkyMarket, SkyManager, voice control), and the right choice in favor of the CIS is supported by sales: more than half a million smart kettles and lamps alone have been sold.

All equipment for the CIS is developed and tested in the Russian REDMOND LABoratorium, undergoing detailed testing of the compatibility of any combination of components. This allows you to quickly identify and eliminate possible local bugs that abound in transnational smart home platforms.

How to determine which element is faulty

It's time to test the thermal fuses to see if any need to be replaced. It also happens that all these elements need to be changed. You can check the condition of the part with a tester.

Do-it-yourself repair of the Polaris multicooker is quite simple in this regard. After all, you don’t even have to remove the thermal fuses to check them.

The next sensor is located in the lid, but it is undesirable to open it without being sure that the reason for the breakdown of the multicooker lies there. You can check the sensor by measuring the resistance in its wiring and at the same time increasing the temperature of the cover.

If no change occurs, then the sensor has indeed failed and should be replaced

Then it’s time to unscrew the lid, but you need to do this very carefully so as not to damage anything inside.

How to clean a steam valve?

This element is located in the top cover of the device, and it also requires appropriate care. To do this, follow these steps:

1. Pull the valve cover lightly on the small tab to open it.
2. On the reverse side there is a lock, which should also be removed by turning it counterclockwise.
3. Then carefully remove the valve rubber from the retainer and wash it thoroughly. The elastic band must not be stretched or twisted, otherwise it will become deformed.
4. Reassemble all elements in reverse order, close the lid on the valve.
5. Place it back on the lid, then press lightly.

Solution

The instruction manual advises the user to follow recommendations regarding troubleshooting. If the situation has not changed, then there is only one way out - a service center.

In some cases, the problem detection sensor shows an incorrect error code, which complicates the process of finding and solving it. If all of the above actions are not successful and do not restore the multicooker’s functionality, you cannot do without a service center.

It is not recommended to open the multicooker yourself, disconnect the boards and check them for malfunctions. If this fact is discovered at the service center, the customer will be denied warranty service. Lack of experience can only aggravate the problem and make further repairs impossible.

Conclusion

Multicookers are reliable appliances that work for years. Breakdowns are caused by improper operation; sometimes thermal fuses burn out. The instructions discussed above and common sense are enough to understand how to repair a multicooker at home. Naturally, if the device is under warranty, the only option is official service. Then why fence the garden? An official service center will carry out the necessary operations.

Note! Before troubleshooting, try restarting the device. There are known cases of a standard error: a program failure makes it impossible for microcircuits to read sensor signals. As a result, the heating element worked continuously. When turned on again, the device is reset, the error found (being detected) is displayed with a fault code by the time indicator.

How the Redmond multicooker works

To repair a multicooker yourself, you should familiarize yourself with its design features and analyze the principle of operation of the device. It resembles an ordinary pan on which a monitor and a power button are located.

The container is closed with a special lid with a latch. The device contains a bowl in which food is prepared. Under this part of the device there are power and control units. There are also diagrams there. A multicooker is considered a multifunctional device. Its operation is ensured by a microprocessor. It consists of several elements.

Electrical diagram

The voltage goes to the connector, which has several contacts. One grounds the unit, the second connects to the housing, the third connects to the cover.

Wiring diagram

Power gets to the wires. They carry the current to the switch and fuse, which are fixed in series. A switch is used to start or stop a job. The fuse protects the unit from overheating.

Power supply and switching

This element solves 2 problems at once. It supplies alternating voltage of 220 Volts and converts it to direct voltage. 5 Volts are required for the control unit. The switching circuit requires 12 volts. The circuit includes a battery. It is required to record the actions of the hostess, who launches the device’s operating programs.

Thermal resistances

The device contains 2 thermistors. One of them is attached to the lid, the second - to the bottom of the device. The key task of the elements is considered to be thermoregulation in the use of the device. Thanks to this, it is possible to maintain the temperature set by the owner.

Thermal fuse

This element protects the kitchen appliance from overheating. It helps prevent damage to the control system.

Helpful operating tips and precautions

1. Using the delayed cooking function, you can add several ice cubes along with the food. The ice will slowly melt like in a thermos thanks to the double wall of the multicooker and the food will not have time to spoil.
2. If the milk porridge foams a lot and “runs away”, after adding all the ingredients, you can grease the walls with butter and place a steaming container in the bowl. At the same time, you should not use milk with a fat content exceeding 2.5%.
3. To ensure even cooking of foods, place those that take longer to cook—meat, root vegetables—on the bottom of the bowl, and those that require less time on top.
4. The heating disc and the outer surface of the bowl must always be dry.
5. It is recommended to fill the multicooker bowl no more than halfway, in some modes a maximum of 70%.
6. Do not rinse the grains in the bowl, otherwise the non-stick coating may easily be damaged.
7. Do not cover the multicooker lid to prevent steam from escaping.
8. Do not violate cooking modes. For example, you cannot cook liquids using the “baking” program.
9. If not provided for by the program, do not open the multicooker lid during operation so as not to disturb the mode.

The multicooker has stopped working and won’t turn on anymore - reasons and DIY repairs

Before blaming the manufacturer for a breakdown, it is worth analyzing the situation. Perhaps you simply do not know all the intricacies of the device. It is also necessary to remember what happened the last time it was turned on.

Possible reasons

So, you've taken your new slow cooker out of the box, loaded it with groceries, and are trying to start it up. But for some reason she doesn’t want to turn on. Fixing the problem in this case is not difficult: most likely, you just installed the bowl incorrectly or overloaded it with products above the division (see photo). The container must be removed and reinstalled. It is also necessary to check the degree of loading of the device.

A similar problem can also occur when:

incorrectly set cooking mode: each type of dish requires a certain temperature; if it is violated, overheating protection is triggered;

excessive loading of products above the level of divisions located in the upper part of the bowl and, as a result, excess boiling liquid entering the heating element;

Loading the multicooker above the level of the last mark is unacceptable

lack of liquid: in this case the bowl overheats, the sensor immediately triggers and turns off the device;

• low voltage or lack of electricity;
• Contacts become dirty when pieces of food get in: they need to be cleaned;
• the pressure valve built into the multicooker lid is clogged: in this case, it is enough to simply rinse it;
• deformation of the bowl: this defect is clearly visible even externally;
• factory defective temperature sensor: the last two problems are rare, but they can still happen.

Defects such as a burnt microcircuit or failure of a temperature sensor are less common. In this case, you will not be able to figure it out yourself without special knowledge - you will need to contact a service center.

After selecting the cooking mode, do not forget to press the “Start” button

Correct operation

Often users feel that the multicooker turns off prematurely. The reason for this very often lies only in violation of operating rules. Thus, interruption of heating before the set time can occur when:

contact with the heating element of bulk products or moisture;

The heating element must not be exposed to moisture or food particles.

• incorrectly set cooking temperature for this product; in this case, the built-in overheating protection may also trigger;
• burning of the bottom of the bowl;
• exceeding the set temperature due to a clogged pressure valve located in the multicooker lid (it must be removed and cleaned);
• factory defect of the temperature sensor: such a problem occurs infrequently, but it is quite possible;
• a defect in the bowl, due to which food gets onto the heating element.

In order for the multicooker to serve for a long time, it is worth remembering the basic rules of its operation:

• place it on a flat, hard surface;
• connect the device to a working outlet with grounding;
• Before turning on, make sure that the lid is closed tightly;
• after washing the bowl, it must be dried or wiped dry; It is prohibited to place wet dishes on the multicooker stove;

The pressure valve located in the lid of the device is also not simply wiped with a dry cloth, but washed thoroughly.

The steam valve built into the lid requires mandatory cleaning

What do experts advise when buying multicookers?

1. The ceramic bowl is stronger than Teflon.
2. 3D heating option ensures even heat distribution.
3. For one user, a power of 500 W is enough, for a family of 3-4 people - from 700 W, for quick cooking - from 1500 W.
4. The stability of the equipment on the surface will be ensured by rubber pads on the legs.
5. Budget models of Russian-Chinese assembly often fail.
6. The non-removable lid complicates the maintenance of the multicooker.
7. A multi-pressure cooker cooks faster and preserves the beneficial properties of food.
8. Focus on the working volume of the bowl; only the total volume is indicated on the box.
9. The more manual modes, the more convenient it is to cook.

Watch the video review of the REDMOND multicooker

Malfunctions that need to be excluded

• Valve clogged . Steam escapes through it. And if the valve gets clogged, the steam has nowhere to go, it stays inside. Then the device overheats and that’s why the multicooker does not work. The situation is quite common.
• The mode is not set correctly . For example, if you cook meat and select the porridge mode, there may be little water.
• Marriage of the Cup . The container may be deformed, which also affects the cooking process and the operation of the appliance. If the warranty is still valid, return the multicooker to the store.

How to care for the removable inner aluminum cover?

To carry out proper cleaning, you need to know how to remove the lid of the Redmond multicooker. It is recommended to do this according to the following scheme:

1. Open the lid of the device; it opens easily.
2. Press the two plastic tabs towards the center of the lid until they are completely open.
3. Gently pull it towards you, then down, until it detaches from the main cover.
4. Then wash it thoroughly and wipe with a damp cloth.
5. Connect all parts in reverse order. Insert the cover into the upper grooves to align it with the base. Press the latches until you hear a click so that it fits tightly.

Now you know how to disassemble and reassemble the lid of the Redmond multicooker after careful treatment with detergents.

Important! Has your miracle pot stopped turning on? In our separate review, you will learn about the main causes of malfunctions of Redmond multicookers and their solutions.