How to make automatic watering for indoor plants yourself

Often during the holidays, flower lovers leave their plants for a long time without attention or care. It’s good when there are good neighbors or relatives who will periodically visit the apartment and water the flowers.

And if there are none, what should we do? There are ways to provide flowers with life-giving moisture and organize automatic watering for indoor plants . Let's look at the simplest and most popular ones.

Do-it-yourself capillary irrigation, watering on fabric

An automatic watering system can be organized using a glass jar and terry cloth.
Place a damp, wrung-out towel at the bottom of the tray. Place pots of flowers on it. Pour water into a glass jar, close it with a lid with a small hole made (10 - 15 mm). A 3-liter bottle with a nylon sealed lid is suitable. In my photo - a half-liter with a regular screw cap. Cover the hole with your finger, turn the jar over and place it upside down there, on this terry towel. You will see air bubbles rushing upward. Water will seep out little by little from the hole in the lid.

Turn the jar of water over and place it on a towel next to the flowers.

Once the towel is sufficiently damp, air will stop flowing into the jar and water will stop flowing out.

Check: Wring out the towel and place the jar of water back on it. Air bubbles will appear and the process will repeat - this means the automatic watering system is working. (Without a towel, water will not flow out of the jar.)

How much water will flow to the plants depends on the type of pots and drainage (see above - watering with a bottle), as well as the thickness of the towel. It’s worth checking 10 days before your vacation to see how this automatic watering system will work.

Capillary mat

The towel with the jar can be replaced with a purchased capillary mat for watering seedlings. The mat is pre-impregnated with water and pots of flowers are placed on top of it; a jar is not needed here. One square meter of capillary mat absorbs about three liters of water. The mat is covered with a film with many holes to reduce water evaporation and to prevent roots from growing from the pots into the mat.

Getting ready to leave for a few days, I made a capillary mat for seedlings with my own hands. Place a piece of terry towel on the bottom of the tray. I covered it on top with a thin film with holes. (Without film, the roots grow into the fabric.) I installed watered pots with seedlings.

I folded thin cling film in several layers and made many holes, at least one for every square centimeter.

Carefully unfolded and laid on top of the towel

Now more details. The pallets were installed strictly horizontally, without tilting, so that the water did not flow to one side. Before laying, I moistened the towel from a measuring cup. (In order to know how much water it absorbs without forming a “swamp” in the pan.) I took pots with drainage holes at two levels: on the ledges and in the depressions of the bottom: the roots need not only water, but also air. A thick towel should not be folded in several layers, so as not to block air access to all holes.

I placed a damp towel at the bottom of the tray, covered it with a film with small holes and placed pots with watered seedlings.

I watched the plants for several days. I decided to add a layer of fabric, since the towel was thin and there was not enough water for 5 days. Before leaving, I watered the seedlings from above into the pots, poured measured amounts of water into the tray, distributing them in different places. The method works if all conditions are met.

Switching power supply.

Transformer TV2 is wound on a ring ferrite core of grade 2000NM, standard size K28x16x9.

Winding I contains 2 layers of wire Ø0.35mm, wound turn to turn.

Winding II contains 17 turns of wire Ø1.0mm.

Winding III contains 23 turns of wire Ø.23mm.

Although a printed circuit board was laid out for the power supply, the main part of the parts and electrical circuit were borrowed from the electronic ballast of a burnt-out fluorescent light bulb (CFL). How to modify the CFL electronic ballast circuit is described in detail here.

The only significant difference in the presented circuit is the presence of a real input filter on elements C0-C3, DR1, which you are unlikely to find in an economical light bulb. The filter parts were used from an old 3USTST TV. The filter can be simplified by leaving only capacitors C1 and C2, but you need to keep in mind that they must be 5 kV. These capacitors, through the electrical network, ground the housing and circuit of the device at high frequency, which ensures the operation of the humidity sensor in conditions of interference created by a switching power supply.

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Do-it-yourself automatic watering of flowers

You can organize automatic watering for plants on the balcony yourself. There are many options for creating systems from scrap materials.

Drip irrigation

To create drip irrigation, you will need a small plastic bottle with a lid. Punch several holes in the lid in advance using a thick needle or awl. Fill the bottle with water and cover the neck with several layers of gauze or mesh. Screw the lid on tightly. Turn the container upside down and place it directly into the pot on the soil.

The number and thickness of holes is determined individually. It is better to try the method in advance in order to know for sure which holes will be optimal for watering a particular plant variety.

Wick watering

Also called the passive irrigation method. To set up the system, you will need a container for water and improvised wicks, which can be laces, ropes or threads of various diameters.

Place one end of the wick in a container of water and secure the other end in the pot with a peg. Water will be absorbed by the material and enter the soil thanks to the physical laws of pressure difference

Please note that the higher the water container is located, the faster the water will seep into the soil, so before leaving, conduct several experiments and select the optimal watering

Automatic watering from a medical dropper

The method is quite simple and common. To organize watering, you will need medical dropper systems with needles and jars of medicines, such as saline. As an alternative, you can use a regular plastic bottle. You will also need a tripod or thick wire to make it.

Action plan:

• Prepare containers and fill them with water.
• Build a tripod with a hook.
• Place a needle on one end of the system tube and pierce the lid of the container.
• Insert the other end of the dropper without a needle into the soil.
• Adjust the watering intensity using the slider on the tube.
• Hang the bottle on a tripod and leave it in that position until you return.

In this way, you can provide watering for the plant for up to two weeks.

Granulated clay or hydrogel

Special substances such as hydrogel or granular clay are good for uniformly moistening the soil in the pot. They are characterized by rapid absorption of water and its gradual, uniform release. Instructions for use:

• Prepare the substrate by filling the hydrogel granules with water in a separate container.
• Once they have swollen to the desired size, about 8 to 12 hours, pour a small layer into the empty pot.
• Place the flower along with the earthen ball on top of the layer.
• Sprinkle the soil with another layer of granules.
• Add water little by little as the balls dry.

When using this method, do not overfill the hydrogel granules, but only moisten them a little.

Capillary mats

Similar devices are sold in stores for gardeners and flower growers. The mat is made of a material that absorbs moisture well, and is covered with a protective film on top to prevent evaporation. To moisten the soil in pots during your absence, buy a capillary mat in advance and prepare 2 trays: one for water, the second with holes for installing pots. Similar containers can also be purchased in the store along with a capillary mat.

Procedure:

• Fill the prepared pan with water.
• Place the tray with the holes on the first one and cover the surface with a drip mat.
• Place the pots where the holes are located.

The material will take moisture from the pan and moisten the soil in the pots. In this case, the flowers will take as much water from the mat as they need for normal life. The device is inexpensive and does not require special skills to organize watering. The material can also be cut into strips and used as wick cords.

Cones and jars

For short-term watering, you can use special pedunculated pears, which are sold in gardening stores. There are a lot of design and color options, so you can choose a container that suits your interior. The device works quite simply. Pour water into the pear and place it in the pot. When the soil dries, dry air will flow through the stem and push out the liquid. Before using the method, it is worth testing it in practice, as some gardeners complain about excessive soil moisture.

Electrical circuit of an improved automatic plant watering machine.

So that any lady could use the machine after reading a few lines of instructions, the circuit had to be significantly improved.

Now, to adjust the machine, it is enough to insert the electrodes of the soil moisture sensor into the pot, the soil of which already requires watering, and set the resistor R11 to a position at which the VD5 LED will just start blinking. At this point, the setup of the electronic part of the machine can be completed. The regulator scale allows you to record the relative soil moisture values ​​on paper.

How it works?

When switch SA1 is switched to the “Tuning” position, the photosensor and the pump starting circuit are blocked, and an additional pulse generator is turned on.

The pulses of the measuring generator are sent through the VD4 diode into the same measuring circuit, which controls the machine in operating mode. The setting is made using the VD5 LED indicator.

To simplify the transition to the setup mode, the “protective” timer circuit was also changed by adding element DD1.3 and timing circuit R5, C3.

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Operating rules

Using pots with an automatic watering system will not cause difficulties even for inexperienced gardeners, but to obtain a large amount of green mass throughout the entire period of flower growth, you need to know and apply the advice of experienced gardeners:

• mandatory use of drainage materials at the bottom of the pot and special soil that matches the type of flower;
• using the usual method of watering during the formation of the root system, which should reach the bottom of the pot;
• the watering tank should be filled only with settled water at room temperature;
• the amount of water should reach the maximum mark on the indicator.

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The frequency of filling the container with water depends on the following factors:

• volume of container with water;
• type of plant;
• level of development of the root system;
• season;
• ambient temperature;
• level of light and humidity in the room.

Well-known manufacturers provide detailed information on operating the device and caring for plants in the instructions for their products.

Beginning gardeners should pay attention to those pots that are sold together with special drainage material, which makes it possible to ensure optimal water supply and quantity. A special drainage composition can be replaced with ordinary vermiculite, gravel and expanded clay

To carry out root feeding of a plant, it is enough to simply dissolve the necessary organic or mineral fertilizer in water, which is poured into a special tank.

Between each filling of the container, a certain amount of time must be allowed to dry the nutrient soil. This procedure will prevent rotting of the root system, and replacing the top fertile layer will avoid the development of fungal diseases.

The most popular pots are the well-known brands Xiaomi and Parrot Pot, whose products are of high quality and have a long service life.

Xiaomi flower containers and Parrot Pot have special sensors and electronic applications that monitor the condition of the flower and inform its owner about the need to water or feed the plant.

Innovative technologies and modern equipment allow manufacturers to produce products that greatly simplify human life. One of the latest innovations on the modern market is the “smart” flower pot, which is popular with both interior designers and ordinary indoor plant lovers. The use of this device will fill any interior with bright, lush and beautiful greenery of indoor plants and will make it possible to create unique compositions that can consist of several different types of flowers.

Watch the following video about smart pots.

Self-irrigating pots

A self-irrigating pot consists of two containers. A plant is planted in one of them, water is poured into the other. The plant gradually absorbs moisture through special wicks.

IN THE PHOTO: “Smart” containers cope with the function of automatic watering of plants. Photo by Tatura Florist.

Such a container is usually equipped with a water indicator. This allows you to accurately determine how much moisture is left in the pot and when you need to add it. The technology for independently setting up such an irrigation system is shown in the video: “LECHUZA Automatic Irrigation System.”

Pots with double bottom

A cheaper variety is plastic pots with a double bottom. Water is poured into a reservoir under the upper bottom and flows to the roots from below. I have these pots for large plants on the balcony. A convenient thing, especially in summer.

Do-it-yourself pots with a “double bottom”

Using the double bottom principle, I converted several ordinary 15-30 liter pots from scrap materials for balcony and garden plants.

At the bottom of the pot I installed a water container and a tube. Covered it with stones and gravel.

Place a 1-3 liter water container at the bottom of each pot. I used bowls, cut plastic canisters and other utensils. I installed a tube to fill the container with water.

I filled everything with gravel, broken bricks, pebbles - whatever I found. I covered the gravel with a circle of cloth to prevent it from silting up with soil. It’s better to take geofabric or a piece of nylon: it won’t rot and allows water to pass through better.

I poured soil on top of the fabric and planted plants. I watered it well on top, as usual.

Place a piece of cloth on top of the gravel

The water supply in the container at the bottom of the pot was poured into a piece of hose. When overwatering, excess water comes out freely through the drainage hole in the bottom of the pot.

I came up with everything myself, but I probably “reinvented the wheel”, it’s so simple. This self-watering functioned well. It was only inconvenient to pour water into the small hole of the tube.

You can water less often if

firstly, take high-quality, and not too light, soil from dried pulverized peat. You can “weight” the mixture with ordinary garden soil. Or make the mixture yourself, finding out the composition for a specific plant.

Secondly, when replanting potted plants, add perlite, vermiculite and/or silicate-based cat litter crystals (up to 4% of the soil volume) to the soil mixture. Place crushed volcanic lava and pieces of charcoal at the bottom of the pot. All this increases the moisture capacity of the soil without displacing air. I don't use hydrogels. There are reports of toxic breakdown products of hydrogels.

Place crushed volcanic lava and charcoal on the bottom of the pot.

Automatic watering for indoor flowers for the very busy or a little lazy

There is no desire to delve into all these subtleties of watering and caring for plants, but it still wouldn’t hurt to have a couple of indoor flowers to liven up the interior?

Then the most unpretentious plants will suit you. Some succulents or ferns, for example. Echeveria, lithops - “living stones”, nolina - “horse tail”, sansevieria, spathiphyllum, kalanchoe, zamioculcas can survive for a long time without water...

But even “living stones” need at least a little attention and water once or twice a month. For those who are especially forgetful, I would advise reading the instructions and adding reminders to your calendar or phone about moderate watering at the recommended intervals. Moreover, separately for winter and summer.

A modern option for automatic watering for indoor flowers

for the lazy, but not the poor - “Smart pot for plants Parrot Pot”. He does everything himself: measures humidity, temperature, light, nutrient content and, most importantly, waters when necessary from the built-in reservoir.

Moreover, when you go far and long, you can always use your smartphone to ask the smart pot how your ficus is doing. And the pot will send a detailed report... fantastisch!

How is automatic watering useful for summer residents?

Sometimes it’s worth leaving home and who should take care of the seedlings in this case? To a neighbor? What if she doesn’t understand anything and overdos it? Automatic watering of seedlings is convenient for gardeners and summer residents because it allows them to leave home for up to 1 month without worrying about care.

The automatic watering system will save seedlings not only during absence. Sometimes there are so many cups that a lot of time is spent on cleaning. Or a problem arises when you no longer remember whether this batch was watered. To avoid the possibility of overflow and mold, you can automate this moment.

Automatic watering with your own hands

No matter how many options for such systems exist, people often prefer to organize automatic watering of indoor plants with their own hands. The most common (old and proven) method is watering with a wick. A twisted strip of gauze or bandage, nylon fabric or woolen thread is lowered at one end into a container with water prepared for irrigation, and the other is placed in the soil of the pot and fixed there. The deeper the wick is dug into the ground, the better the moisture will flow. If you think about this when planting the plant, you can insert the wick from the bottom through the drainage hole.

A do-it-yourself automatic watering system for indoor plants is usually made from improvised materials. You can make it perfectly from plastic bottles. To do this, just make small holes in the lid, fill the bottle with water and place it vertically, with the neck slightly buried in the ground

It’s just important that it doesn’t turn over; it’s better to strengthen it in a vertical position. The size of the bottle depends on the volume of the flower pot and the duration of your absence

Usually a small bottle is inserted into a small pot, but a tub will require several large bottles.

Conventional medical droppers are very convenient to use for dosed delivery of water to flowers. If several pots are located nearby, you can arrange one reservoir for them by filling it with water and lowering the edges of the tubes fastened together there. It is convenient to use metal wire for weighting - it will help hold the tubes at the bottom of the dish. The water container can be some beautiful vase or just a large plastic bottle placed above the pots. The second edge of each tube is freed from the nozzle with a needle and lowered into the soil to the roots of the plants. Using the control wheel, you can perfectly adjust the desired rate of water flow to the roots.

Flower shops today offer granular clay or hydrogel, which are saturated with water and then gradually release it to the plants. Using them is simple - you need to place the plant when replanting so that there is a sufficient layer of these granules around the lump of earth everywhere (at the bottom, along the walls and on top). After watering from above, the soil is covered with film to prevent evaporation. This way the plant will receive as much moisture as it needs to live while the owners are away.

You can also use capillary mats. This is the name given to rugs made from a material that easily absorbs and retains moisture. Pots with plants are placed on them, and one edge of the mat is lowered into the water. Sometimes they are sold together with special trays: a large tray is filled with water, a smaller one is placed, a rug is placed on it and plants are placed. So, along the mat, as if through a kind of wick, moisture rises to the holes in the pots.

There is another way - a greenhouse. All pots with plants are placed on a tray or in basins with water, covered with film, thus constructing something similar to a greenhouse, inside which high humidity will be established. This way the flowers will definitely not dry out. This method has its drawbacks - it is not suitable for all plants, and “fluffy” leaves covered with villi can rot. A long time spent under the film will wean the plants from fresh air, then they will have to be gradually accustomed to it.

Regardless of which method you choose to water your plants, it is important to prepare them for host absence and reduce their water needs as much as possible. To do this, you need to cut off all the flowers and buds, drying leaves so that they do not weaken the plants

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Plant preparation

If the trip did not come as a surprise, it is better to prepare the plants in advance for the upcoming changes.

1. Place in the shade to reduce evaporation. It also depends on the time of year, the presence of working heating devices and ventilation in the room.
2. Remove affected leaves and inflorescences. Professionals advise partially thinning out healthy leaves, and be sure to remove not only blooming flowers, but also buds. This measure may seem cruel, but it will allow the plant to use water more economically.
3. Wipe the leaves and spray them with a spray bottle.
4. Place all flower pots in one place and cover the top with film, making several holes in it for air flow. An alternative to film can be a covering material - it is more porous, promotes air exchange and prevents the formation of mold.
5. If you are placing flowers in groups, isolate diseased plants. In the immediate vicinity, even a banal fungus will quickly infect healthy neighbors.
6. Immediately before leaving, all flowers need to be watered well. In rare cases, the plant is taken out along with the earth (a lump) and lowered into water, but not for long - so that the earth does not crumble.

Do-it-yourself automatic watering of indoor plants

The most reliable way to preserve houseplants while the owners are away is to have a responsible person water them.

But there are other methods to get out of this situation: retain the moisture obtained with the last watering (this method can work for a maximum of 2 weeks and requires virtually no financial costs) or equip an automatic watering system.

There are many ways to create automatic watering systems, which are indispensable in the event of a long absence of owners. They can be both budget and quite expensive.

We retain moisture at the lowest cost

First, let's look at a way out of the situation at the lowest cost. This method is very simple, but it is advisable to use it only in extreme cases - it has too many disadvantages.

So, in order to organize the simplest moisture conservation system, you need to water the plants well, best by immersing the root along with the lump in water.

Remove pots from window sills: the weaker the lighting, the less moisture evaporates, and the less it is consumed by the plant. Of course, without light, growth will slow down and delicate plants may be depressed.

to reduce water consumption

Place all the pots closer to each other, preferably in one container - for example, in a bathtub or large basin. Place a five-centimeter layer of expanded clay on the bottom and fill it with water. We place the pots, placing pieces of wet sphagnum in between them.

Cover the structure with film. The most delicate specimens can be placed in individual greenhouses.

Keep in mind that when “under a hood”, plants with pubescent leaves (Saintpaulias, pelargoniums) can become moldy and rot.

For tips on creating automatic watering for indoor plants using pallets, see the video below:

The simplest drip irrigation

The system described above will be viable longer if it is provided with a source of moisture. You can make small holes in the caps of plastic bottles, turn them over and place them between the pots, ensuring that moisture seeps out drop by drop.

Bottles can be stuck directly into the ground. The capacity of each bottle is selected individually - 0.5 liters is enough for one plant, and for large plants in tubs, you may need several 2 liter bottles.

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Despite the simplicity and artisanal nature of this method, there are production devices that work on this principle.

Austrian Blumat irrigation systems, which can be purchased in our stores, operate on this principle.

System "Wick"

This is a well-known method - connecting to an irrigation system using improvised wicks made from any laces, ropes, etc. One end of the wick is lowered into a basin of water, the second is fixed in a pot (you can use an ordinary women's hairpin or a wooden peg).

The most reliable way is to pass the wick through the hole in the bottom of the pot before planting the plant. You can equip all plants with this system in advance if you are often away from home.

The material for the wick is needed in this case, synthetic is selected. Thus, water will flow into the ground due to the difference in capillary pressure.

Watch the video for a master class on making a self-watering system “Wick” at home:

Hydrogel and granular clay

Granular clay or hydrogel well saturated with moisture (buy at garden centers) is also used for automatic watering equipment. These materials have the ability to absorb large amounts of water and then release it little by little to plant roots as needed.

Lumps of clay in granules are placed in a separate pot (select a larger size), and then a plant with an undisturbed lump is transplanted into it and covered with a thick layer of clay (hydrogel) on all sides. Then the soil is covered with polyethylene.

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How to preserve moisture at the lowest cost

You can minimize moisture loss - it’s not difficult to do. It is worth noting that this method should be used only as a last resort, since it has many more disadvantages than positive aspects.

So:

• moisten the earthen lump well, placing the pot in a container with water for a day;
• remove pots from window sills to a shaded place. Everyone knows that the less light a plant receives, the slower it grows and develops. Thanks to this, much less moisture will be consumed. This method has a big disadvantage: delicate indoor flowers can die without sunlight;
• thin out the plant by cutting off the leaves and inflorescences, so much less water will be lost, but after such pruning the flower will regain its strength and decorativeness for a very long time;
• Place the entire pot of flowers in a large container at the bottom of which there will be expanded clay filled with water. For greater efficiency, you can lay wet material or peat in layers between the pots;
• arrange an impromptu greenhouse for the plants, covering them with film, but if they stay in this structure for a long time, the flowers may become moldy or simply rot. In addition, a lot of effort will have to be made to adapt the surviving plants to the outdoors.

As we can see, the disadvantages are significant , and if you want to preserve the beauty and decorativeness of indoor flowers, then it is worth considering more gentle methods of preserving moisture.

Irrigation system at the dacha depending on water supply

Water can be supplied to the irrigation system in one of the following ways:

• automatic;
• semi-automatic;
• mechanical.

Each method of supplying water to the root system of a plant has both its advantages and disadvantages.
The first option is carried out depending on the wishes of the owner and is set by a special program. In this case, the start time for watering is set or humidification sensors are installed, relative to which water will be supplied. You can buy such a system ready-made or organize automatic irrigation yourself.

When installing an automatic system, a self-priming pump must be used for watering a vegetable garden, house garden, or cottage, which pumps water from a container

When choosing a unit, you should pay attention to the frequency of engine adjustment and the possibility of a soft start. It is connected to an on timer that controls the operation of the pumping unit

When organizing automatic watering at your dacha with your own hands, you can purchase a socket with a timer, which involves daily or weekly irrigation. This system is most often used for sprinkling. However, it can be organized for other options. Wells, reservoirs located near the land plot, or a centralized water supply system can be used as water storage facilities.

The automatic watering system is convenient because it irrigates at a specified time and does not require much human effort.

Semi-automatic irrigation involves manually supplying water to the common pipe. Then the system independently distributes the liquid through the pipes, regulating its flow and pressure.

On a note! At any time, by changing the settings, you can switch from semi-automatic to automatic mode without turning off the water supply tap.

With mechanical watering, the moistening of the beds is controlled by a person who manually opens the watering tap at the dacha, selecting the required pressure.

Pros and cons of this installation

Advantages of automatic watering:

• correctly adjusted water supply of the required volume;
• reduction of labor intensity;
• reduction in consumption - the system supplies a given amount of water, maintaining an optimal balance of soil moisture;
• the ability to carry out irrigation in the long-term absence of the owner.

Flaws:

• purchased systems with software are more expensive;
• the electronic system depends on the household electrical network;
• cheap analogues are not durable.

The most important advantage of simple automatic irrigation is the ability to create such irrigation with your own hands, without the use of complex electronics.

Types and their structure

Home automatic watering systems are divided into numerous types, which are united only by their purpose and common name. To understand what they all represent, let's look at the most common systems.

Microdroplet devices

This is the same irrigation system that is usually used in an outdoor garden, but in a slightly smaller form. It is used if there are a lot of plants in the house, and at the same time they are located compactly - in one room. Water is supplied either directly from the water supply system, or from a special plastic tank using a pump. The design usually involves the presence of an on and off timer.

Ceramic cones

This design option is the simplest, and it is this that folk craftsmen usually use in their creations. The idea is that water is supplied to the pot from an elevated reservoir, simulating a water tower - just enough moisture should be supplied from it so that the soil never dries out. Such a mechanism gets clogged quite easily, and it is difficult to calculate the exact position of the reservoir to supply water in the required quantity, but even very cheap ceramic nozzles are available for simple two-liter bottles, which provide watering for a month in advance at a minimum cost.

Double pot

In this case, the inner vessel plays the role of a classic pot, that is, it contains the soil and the plant itself, while the outer product is a water tank. The walls of the inner pot have small holes with a membrane that can let water through in limited quantities and only as the soil inside the vessel dries out

Colorful cones

Original sprinklers were invented by domestic manufacturers - multi-colored cones that are filled with water, inserted into a thin stem and stuck into the ground.

As the soil in the pot dries, oxygen penetrates the stem, pushing out of the flask exactly as much water as the flower needs .

Ideal for watering house plants, as well as greenhouses, gardens, etc. This method has its advantages:

• practicality and originality of the solution;
• additional interior decoration;
• no threads, droppers, complex designs - everything is beautiful and simple.

Ceramic cones for automatic watering of indoor flowers

An effective, but not the most budget-friendly method of autonomous watering.

How the method works:

1. Purchase ceramic cones at a flower shop or online. They are equipped with a sealed lid with an attached drainage tube.
2. Before use, the device must be soaked in water for about half an hour so that the cone is saturated with moisture. The lid should be closed without removing the cone from the water, so that air does not get inside.
3. The prepared cone is stuck into the flower pot along the “shoulders”, and the tube is lowered into a container of water.
4. Moisture flows to the roots of plants as the soil dries. The cone is filled with water from an external container due to the vacuum formed inside.
5. The lower the container is located in relation to the pot, the more moisture will flow into the ground.

This method of autonomous watering is good if the roots of the plant are not too tightly woven into the earthen ball in the pot. Otherwise, attempts to squeeze the cone will damage the root system and the plant will die.

Another drawback is the rather high price of the cones.

How to make automatic watering yourself

Ceramic cones can be replaced with thick wool threads or cords. One end of an improvised irrigation cord is placed in a flower pot, and the other in a container with water.

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To prevent water from evaporating from the surface of the cord, it can be threaded through cocktail tubes.

Attention! The ends of the cord must remain free, otherwise the liquid will not flow into the pot.

If the automatic watering system is clogged

A large amount of minerals are dissolved in water (especially hard water). They gradually settle on the walls of automatic watering systems, which sooner or later leads to clogging.

Blockages in autonomous irrigation systems can also be caused by microalgae, which thrive in warm water.

To clean cones, they usually use soaking in a solution of acetic acid and mechanical removal of remaining deposits - a long and unpleasant process. To avoid it, you can use a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution.

This is a preventive measure. Peroxide prevents minerals from settling on the walls of the cones and does not harm plants. It is recommended to take at least 40 ml of peroxide per bucket of water.

Attention! Water filtration will help combat the development of microalgae.

Self-watering from a bottle

This type of automatic waterer is the simplest; to make it you will need one plastic bottle. The volume is selected depending on the volume of the pot. For small flowers, a 0.5 liter container is suitable. It is done as follows:

Small holes are made in the lid; the intensity of watering will depend on their number and diameter.

Next, water is filled into the bottle.

Then you need to place the top of the bottle in the ground.

Another option for automatic watering

This kind of watering is quite simple to do, but has many disadvantages:

• Constant watering;
• Intensity cannot be adjusted.

What ready-made options are there on the market?

Gardening stores have a wide range of systems for automatically watering indoor plants. The following is a description of the most popular devices.

GARDENA 1265/1266

Fully automated system from German manufacturers. Equipped with a timer, pump, filter and hose system with a total length of 30 meters. Allows an even supply of water to up to 36 individual pots.

Characteristics:

1. Capacity with a capacity of 9 liters.
2. 12 outputs from 3 distributors.
3. Pegs with water supply regulator.
4. Supply hose length 9 m.
5. The length of distribution lines is 30 m.
6. Minimum irrigation time 1 min.
7. Flow from 15 to 60 l/min.
8. Possibility of regulating flow for each type of plant.

The system is suitable for owners of a large number of plants. The approximate cost of the model starts from 3,400 rubles. Read about Garden drip irrigation in this article.

DEWDROP

Model from Russian manufacturers . It does not have an electronic component, therefore it is completely independent of the electrical voltage in the network. Consists of main lines and emitters with a water supply regulator.

The system can be connected to a water line or tank. One set is suitable for irrigating a greenhouse or indoor plants in quantities of up to 50 pcs. The cost of the set is from 350 to 500 rubles. Read more about drip irrigation Rosinka here.

Characteristics:

• hose length 20 m;
• number of droppers 50 pcs.;
• water consumption up to 2 l/h;
• working pressure up to 1 bar.

“Rosinka” is completely independent of the container when operating. The main thing is to regulate the water flow and monitor its volume.

Argus

This model is a ceramic cone. Irrigation is carried out through the controlled flow of water from a container (plastic bottle) or using a hose from a container located at a distance.

Characteristics:

1. Number of cones 2 pcs.
2. Hose length 1 m.
3. Water consumption up to 0.5 l/h.
4. The ability to connect the cone to the neck of a plastic bottle with a standard diameter.

Ceramic cones are great for irrigation throughout the day. The approximate cost of the model starts from 350 rubles.

Automatic watering from plastic bottles

Many gardeners know how to set up a drip irrigation system from plastic bottles. The operating principle of this device is very simple:

1. Take a container of mineral or carbonated water and, using a hot knitting needle or nail, make two holes: in the lid and in the bottom.
2. The bottle is filled with water, turned upside down and secured above the pot or buried in the ground up to the neck.

The most difficult part of this job is adjusting the frequency of drops and calculating the volume of liquid needed for watering over several days. To do this, you need to measure in advance how much water will flow out of the bottle per day and check how well the soil mixture is wet. Depending on these observations, the diameter of the hole in the cap and the volume of the bottle are adjusted.

Automatic watering for indoor plants from plastic bottles

How to make self-watering for indoor plants from plastic bottles while on vacation? Attention! Read to the end, you didn’t know about this method yet. I once saw this trick on the channel “Crazy Hands”

The author of the idea is E.Yu. Khramov.

Place flower pots in a tray, tray or bowl with a thin layer of water at the bottom. Place a plastic bottle of water there.

Place a flower pot and a prepared bottle of water in a tray or bath.

You must first make two small holes in the bottle with an awl or a thin nail. One - as low as possible, at the junction of the bottom with the side surface, the other - 1 - 3 cm higher. The plug is screwed tightly.

Make two holes in the bottle with an awl

Water from a bottle placed in the tray will pour out until the water level in the tray is at the mark midway between these two holes.

As soon as the plants absorb some of the water from the pan and the level drops, some water will flow out of the bottle again - the level in the pan will be restored.

Make sure the system is working by removing some of the water from the pan using a sponge or towel. Air bubbles will immediately begin to rise in the bottle, and some of the water will pour out of the holes.

Now the water is leaking out of the bottle and air bubbles are visible.

How to set up automatic watering for indoor flowers from a bottle

This automatic watering system is made very quickly. But it would be good to adjust it in advance.

What water level do you need? Let’s say 1 cm. In this case, we pierce the 2nd hole at a height of approximately 2 cm. The water level for most plants should be low, i.e. The water should just touch the soil at the bottom of the pot.

If the water level is too high for one of the plants, you can put something under the bottom of the pot. Or insert the plant into another similar pot with holes in the bottom, like the one in my top photo.

What kind of pots do you have, large or small? Are the plants fast growing or not so fast? How many days will the water last? You can, if necessary, put several bottles or a hard plastic canister.

When the water in the bottle runs out, the soil in the pots will remain wet for several more days. How many days for specific plants can be established in advance experimentally.

Is the bottom of the flower pot flat or ridged? Is there a drainage layer at the bottom or not? If there is a high side on the outside of the bottom of the pot and/or there is drainage from large pebbles inside the pot, then the water may not reach the roots of the plants when standing low. Then the water level must be changed: a second hole must be pierced higher.

Water will flow most abundantly into unglazed ceramic flower pots with a flat bottom without drainage or with drainage in the form of sand in the pot. But if both the bottom of the pot and the tray are very smooth and water does not penetrate between them, then you should put something under the pot: a couple of toothpicks or matches, for example.

Which plants are suitable for this method of watering on vacation?

Not all plants are suitable for heavy moisture, especially in winter: the roots can rot. My tradescantia and asparagus tolerated a long stay in a basin of water very well. This method of automatic watering is also suitable for begonia, calla lilies, anthurium, monstera, cyperus, indoor bamboo, calamus, hanging reeds, in short, for marsh and semi-swamp plants.

For plants with very moderate watering, it makes sense to cover the drainage hole in a clay pot at this time, for example, with plasticine. Water will very slowly be absorbed through the pores of unglazed ceramic as the soil dries.

Or organize a capillary method of automatic watering.

How can I check that the selected option works?

It’s good if you have the opportunity to test the effectiveness of the device you created and see the plant’s reaction.

Automatic watering, although done by hand, must correspond to the type of plant. For those who love moisture, your supply may not be enough, but for cacti there will be plenty.

If the water supply comes from below, you need to make sure that the soil is moistened to the level of the roots. Plants with short roots may never receive it. Soil moisture can be checked with the same wooden toothpick or skewer.

Monitor how quickly the water is used. A larger container may be needed. Or not one system, but two.

It’s good if after a few days someone can still check the condition of the plants. Water supply systems can become pinched or otherwise malfunction. Coming and looking at the flowers is not as troublesome as watering them thoroughly. As a last resort, during their absence they can be monitored through cameras connected to the Internet.

Types of systems

There are several types of automatic watering systems for indoor plants. They all do their job well, you just need to choose the right one.

Microdroplet systems

If there are a large number of indoor flowers collected in one room, it is advisable to use micro-drip automatic watering systems, similar to garden ones. The water supply comes from the central water supply, and the on and off time is controlled by a timer connected to the electrical network. The system operates completely autonomously, which is very convenient when the owners are absent for a long time. For an average collection of up to 30 plants, drip systems with a reservoir are suitable. A tube extends from the container to each flower, supplying water. it is connected to a dropper with a plastic or ceramic tip, which is buried in the ground.

The water supply in a conventional dropper is manually regulated. Rotate the wheel to adjust the watering intensity, for example, 10 drops per hour or 10 ml. Devices with a ceramic tip have the ability to control soil moisture and supply water when there is a lack of moisture.

Microdroplet system

Ceramic cones

Automatic watering for indoor plants is provided by ceramic cones, which are popular among gardeners. Outwardly, they look like ceramic “carrots” with plastic or rubber tubes. The “carrot” itself is placed in a pot, and the end of the tube is placed in a container of water. There is no control over the water supply here. It is supplied under pressure as soon as the soil dries.

As an alternative for a vessel with water, use a bottle with a ceramic nozzle. Simply attach the nozzle to a plastic bottle and place it in the pot. The device supplies the right amount of water and does not require attention. it’s convenient and economical, because a 2-liter bottle will last for a whole month. The use of porous, ceramic material ensures drip irrigation through the pores.

Ceramic cone

Enema balls

Externally, enema balls resemble spherical flasks with pipettes for watering. Water is poured into them and placed in a pot. When the soil dries, oxygen enters the stem of the flask and squeezes out the amount of water necessary for the flower. Enemas have worked well, but they also have a drawback - a poor dosage that “floods” the flower.

Enema ball

Self-irrigating pots

The design consists of 2 containers. One is internal for planting an indoor flower, and the other is deep for water. The soil will absorb water through capillary mats or special wicks located under the flowerpot. The mat or wick is saturated with moisture and transfers it to the flower pot. The pot has a water indicator, which allows you to accurately determine when to top up. The design allows you to avoid rotting of the roots from excess moisture.

Self-irrigating pot

How to water flowers during vacation or business trip

In this case, a micro-drip automatic watering system, a flowerpot or a ceramic cone will be suitable. It is necessary to prepare for their arrangement in advance and check the system for correct operation. It is important that moisture is supplied as needed to prevent overdrying or waterlogging, which is detrimental to plants.

Top 5 ready-made systems (manufacturers)

Among the most well-known systems for automatic watering of plants are:

1. Bug – .
2. Water strider - from .
3. A drop – .
4. The harvest is from Tuboflex.
5. The source is production.

Each of the systems operates on the basis of a drip tape (Bug, Drop, Harvest and Source) or a tube (Water Strider). For irrigation, a container of water or a pipeline (well) is used.