When sewing by hand, first of all you need to understand how to calculate the fabric for a skirt. When calculating the footage, it is necessary to take into account the width of the canvas, the model and the dimensions of the waist and hips. It is more convenient and profitable to use a fabric with a width of 1.5 m or more; in this case, for a straight skirt, for example, take one length and allowance for hems, seams and waistbands. If the width is less than 1.4, two lengths are taken. Also, the increase in footage depends on the density of the folds, the presence of frills, pockets and other elements.
Next, you need to choose what material to make the skirt from. The choice of fabric depends on the cut, style, cut nuances, body type, seasonal purpose and personal preferences. Among the many types, silk, cotton, linen, satin, chiffon, stretch, knitwear and jeans are most often chosen.
How to cut a sun skirt
In this article I will tell you how to cut a sun skirt without seams and with two seams.
This can be done directly on the fabric, without preliminary construction of patterns. Let's figure out how to calculate a sun skirt, and how to determine how much fabric is needed for a sun skirt. And we’ll also look at how to make a sun skirt with an elastic band, that is, without a fastener.
How to calculate a sun skirt
To calculate, you need to take 2 measurements:
From – waist circumference – using a measuring tape we measure the figure at the level of the waist line (the narrowest point of the figure, or at the level where you will wear the skirt). The tape should run horizontally and fit tightly around the body (not too tight, but not loose either).
Di - length of the skirt - measure along the side, applying a measuring tape to the waist line, and lowering the end of the tape down with the beginning of the countdown to the level of the desired length of the skirt.
To cut out your skirt, you can measure yourself. Just when measuring the length of the skirt, you need to stand straight, not bend over, otherwise the length will not be measured accurately. Therefore, it is better to stand in front of a mirror and see to what level you lower the end of the tape.
To build a sun skirt, you need to draw 2 circles: the inner one is the waist line, and the outer one is the bottom line.
We calculate the radius of circles:
R 1 = From: 6.3 – radius of the inner circle.
For example, if From = 80 cm, R1 = 12.7 cm (rounded).
R 2 = R 1 + Di – radius of the outer circle
That is, we simply add the length of the skirt to R1. For example, if Di = 60 cm, and O = 80 cm, R2 = 12.7 + 60 cm = 73 cm (here it is easier to round to a whole number).
How to design a sun skirt with elastic, without fastener
To calculate a sun skirt with an elastic band, instead of From you will need a measurement:
About – hip circumference – measure your figure at hip level. The measuring tape runs horizontally along the most protruding points of the buttocks.
When calculating the internal arc R1, instead of From, we substitute: (Ob + 2...5 cm).
R 1 = (Rb + 2…5 cm) : 6.3
How much to add to the hip circumference (from 2 to 5 cm) is chosen at will. If you want the skirt to fit over the hips very loosely, and to have more gathers at the waist, take closer to 5 cm. In skirts for girls, they also take a larger value – closer to 5 cm, so that they can be dressed easily.
How to cut a sun skirt without seams
Let me tell you right away that this method is not suitable for everyone. But only for children's clothing, and for women of small stature and size. The skirt turns out to be quite short, and the larger the size and height of the woman, the shorter the skirt will be.
(Unless you are sewing a sun skirt from fabric with a width of more than 150 cm, for example, from fabric for bed linen, where the width is 220 cm; or from curtain fabric (rare, but there are such fabrics with an environmentally friendly composition, suitable for clothing)) .
And below I will show with an example why this is so.
Please note that the skirt will have no seams! Therefore, it is advisable to make it with an elastic band, without a fastener (processing the fastener not in the seam so that it turns out neat is quite difficult, especially for a beginner in sewing).
So, to cut out a sun skirt without seams, take a square of fabric (width of fabric = length of fabric). And fold it into 4 layers - like a handkerchief.
The diagram shows the principle of how to fold fabric. After this, we carefully align the fabric, matching the cuts and folds so that the fabric lies flat, without distortions.
(If initially the square of fabric was not even, the cuts will not be able to align exactly. Align the fabric as it turns out, matching the folds.)
Then, from the corner of the fabric with folds, as from the center, we measure and draw two circles.
First, the inner circle with radius R1. This will be the waist line. Then the outer circle with radius R2 is the bottom line.
Drawing these circles on fabric is usually inconvenient; there are no compasses of this size? .
Therefore, you need to adapt. Someone can hold a crayon on the end of a measuring tape, and hold the desired tape mark on the corner of the fabric (the center of the circle) and draw a line. It is convenient for some to cut a rope of the required length, and also, holding a chalk at the end, draw a circle.
I usually just make small marks on the fabric around the circumference, at a short distance from each other, and then connect them with a smooth line. It’s more convenient for me, I can do it more accurately. Try it, find your own way to draw these circles more conveniently.
Then you need to do a check!
Using a measuring tape, measure the length of the waist line (circumference R1). And multiply the resulting value by 4 (since the fabric is folded into 4 layers). The result should be equal to: (About + 2...5 cm).
If the circumference is smaller (Ob + 2…5 cm), then you need to increase R1 by a few mm and draw the circle lower. If the circumference turns out to be larger (Ob + 2...5 cm), then you need to reduce R1 by a few mm and draw the circle higher.
We also make sure to measure and check the length of the new circumference.
Then we mark the processing allowances along the waist and hem lines. Since this is a sun skirt, we allow small allowances: 1...1.5 cm. (The waist and hem lines are not straight, so large allowances will interfere with processing).
After marking the allowances, take scissors and carefully cut out the sun skirt. When unfolded, you will get a circle with a “hole” in the middle.
Let's take an example to see why this method can only cut a fairly short skirt, and it is more suitable for women of small size and height, and girls.
The maximum (and most common) fabric width is 150 cm. Take a square of fabric: width 150 cm, length 150 cm. Fold in 4 layers, you get a square with side = 75 cm.
The skirt has no seams, so no fastener - with elastic. Instead of From we use (Ob + 2...5 cm).
For example, Ob = 104 cm. Then R1 = (Ob + 5 cm): 6.3 = (104 cm + 5 cm): 6.3 = 17.3 cm.
And the side of the square of folded fabric is 75 cm.
75 cm - 17.3 cm = 57.7 cm - only 57.7 cm remains for the length of the skirt. And this is without taking into account the hem allowance for the bottom. So the length of the finished skirt will be only 56 cm.
So you can figure out whether this method is right for you. If your hip circumference is less than 104 cm, the skirt may be slightly longer than 56 cm; and if your hip circumference is more than 104 cm, the skirt will be shorter accordingly. This is for a fabric width of 150 cm. If the fabric width is smaller, then the skirt is shorter.
Well, if you are making a sun skirt from fabric, for example, for bed linen, the width of which is 220 cm, or curtains, then, of course, the skirt can turn out longer, and with a larger hip circumference.
How to cut a sun skirt with two seams
The sun skirt can be cut with two seams. And in this way you can make a long floor-length skirt, regardless of your height and figure size.
Features of sewing half-sun
Such skirts gained their popularity back in the 20th century and 30s. American fashionistas imitated the great Coco Chanel. She introduced the pencil and half-sun style into fashion. Every feminine girl of that time had these skirts. In 2000, there was a decline in the popularity of these styles, but since the beginning of 2010, more and more girls began to purchase and sew these skirts themselves. And in 2022, handmade things are gaining popularity.
Conical model
Many girls no longer want store-bought clothes and are trying to do everything not to look like each other. And by the way, making clothes yourself is several times cheaper than purchasing them in various fashion stores, and the quality will be many times higher, because good fabrics are always used when working independently.
It is very difficult to find clothing items that will fit almost all girls and emphasize their advantages. But still, there are some models that suit all body types. This will be a classic half-sun skirt. Its sophisticated silhouette can hide very wide hips or, conversely, balance their absence, can highlight the waistline and even visually enlarge the bust. It is recommended that every girl keep such products in her wardrobe. They go well with both heels and sneakers, sweaters or summer tops.
You might be interested in Sewing a cardigan yourself with and without patterns
Pattern with radius
Due to the fact that the skirt parts are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, they need to be lengthened. This will affect the parts of the back and front half in the middle. If the skirt is made from thin material, then it needs to be lengthened in its finished form. Allowances are required here (no more than 5 centimeters at the hem). Before sewing the parts together, it is advisable to fasten them well.
When creating a product from fabric with a satin weave, you must let the skirt hang for at least a day before straightening the edge. If a lightweight material is selected for the work, then the product can be sewn with an elastic band. At the same time, it can be inserted either along the entire waist line, or separately - two elastic bands along the side seams.
Construction of a drawing
There is no need to make such a skirt from striped materials, as it will be very difficult to match the pattern. Moreover, in this case, fabric consumption will increase. When creating a skirt from satin, you need to consider that it will look different from the front and back. This is due to the bias cut.
Circle skirt: fabric calculation for pattern
There are many mysterious and amazing things in a woman’s wardrobe that create her graceful image and emphasize her beauty.
There is a huge assortment of skirts alone. However, no other can give such elegance and sophistication as a flared one. Such skirts add lightness and airiness to the figure of beautiful ladies. This adds charm to the image and makes it unforgettable. These things can be bought in stores, or you can make them yourself. However, when sewing, many are faced with a number of issues that put them in difficulty. In this article we will help you sort out all the difficulties and find the answers you need.
How to correctly calculate the amount of fabric for a skirt pattern
This model is distinguished by its simplicity and ease of execution. Anyone can make it, even the person farthest from sewing. By the way, this is a great way to give a gift to your beloved women. It won't take much time and effort.
However, in order to correctly calculate the amount of material required, you need to have an idea of how the pattern is constructed and what dimensions are needed for this. To sew a flared skirt, you do not need a drawing; you can easily do without it. Remember how in childhood each of us cut out snowflakes. The principle is very similar. When cutting fabric, you need to fold the square in half or in four (whichever is more convenient) and make two cuts along the outer radius and the inner one. The inner one will correspond to the waist, and the outer one is the length of the product. Based on this, you can focus on the amount of material needed.
IMPORTANT: this model uses a lot of fabric to make. To create a skirt that is only a meter long, you will need a square 2.5 times larger. The method, although expensive, is very simple and beautiful.
Construction of the main pattern
Let's look at step-by-step instructions on how to cut out a half-sun skirt for women or girls.
Important! All conical skirts have curvature coefficients for the upper waist circumference. Our task is to choose the type of skirt. For a half-sun skirt, this coefficient is 0.64.
Required measurements:
Waist circumference (the main measurement for this model) - measurements are taken at the narrowest point of the body. It is good to leave the cord or tape at the waist for later measuring the length of the product.
Hip circumference - measurements are taken along the protruding areas of the hips, buttocks, for this model you can capture the stomach.
The length of the skirt is from the waistline vertically down the side to the estimated required hemline.
Thus, to calculate the radius of the inner circle, we must multiply the waist circumference by 0.64.
The second way to calculate this radius is to divide the waist circumference by Pi, that is, by 3.14.
Progress:
- On a large sheet of paper we build a right angle with vertex O in the upper left corner.
- We mark the bisector of this angle; it is convenient to simply mark the angle at 45 degrees.
- Along the angle lines we plot points T and T1, equal to R1.
R1 is the radius of the waist circumference.
- From this circle on the sides of the angle we mark the length of the skirt - H and H1, respectively.
- We draw a second circle, the radius of which R2 is equal to R1 + TH.
- Later we will shorten the skirt in the central part by 1.5-3 cm, after it sags.
- Cut it out.
Belt
The belt pattern is a rectangle, the required width and length equal to the waist circumference, plus 7-8 cm for the fastener.
How to calculate the amount of fabric for a circle skirt
In order to calculate how much fabric is needed for a dress, you should remember a little about the school geometry course, the most basic knowledge. For example, you need to make a skirt with a length of 50 cm and a waist circumference of 60 cm. In this case, you will need a square-shaped fabric with a side of 120 cm. Now we will tell you why.
Let's imagine that the waist circumference is a circumference. The diameter of a circle is calculated using the formula, and it is equal to the length divided by pi. And the radius is equal to half the diameter. So it turns out that the waist radius with a girth of 60 cm is 60/(2 × 3.14)
10 cm. This size is set aside to one side and the length of the skirt itself is added to it (50 cm in our case). This gives us half the side of the square. The whole side is twice as large, that is, 1.2 meters.
IMPORTANT: at the end, to get the whole side, we double the size, because initially we set the radius and length only in one direction, without taking into account the other.
Taking measurements
No special measurements are required to create a pattern and sew. To do this, you need to know only two basic parameters of the future product. Measure your waist circumference using a measuring tape. This parameter will remain unchanged and will not play an important role in determining the required amount of material. The next size is key, and the size of the future product largely depends on it. We are talking about the length of the skirt itself. You can make absolutely any length according to your wishes. Nowadays there are models from very short to incredibly large, swelling in the wind. If you use a short version, it is better to make it from thick fabric and complement the look with a wide belt. In the case of long skirts, light, airy and slightly transparent material is used, giving tenderness to the woman who wears it.
We calculate the fabric
Before creating a pattern and performing the necessary manipulations, you should carefully calculate all the dimensions and select the type of fabric you like. There is nothing complicated at this stage, just follow the instructions that were detailed above. Measure your waist circumference, calculate the radius of the inner circle from this and add the length to it. You will receive the required dimensions.
ATTENTION: it is best to take extra fabric. If there is excess length, you can very easily remove it with scissors. Use the remaining scraps to make decorative bows or a belt.
Which fabric to choose
As stated above, the main requirement for the material is good ductility.
The type and composition of the fabric is selected taking into account the season for which the skirt is made, the experience of the seamstress, and the characteristics of the model.
Let's look at some options:
- tweed is an excellent choice for a warm skirt. Woolen fabric with a textured surface drapes well and forms clear folds. Not suitable for women with large hips, as it will significantly increase their volume;
- tulle is a light, homogeneous material, ideal for creating fluffy skirts;
- denim is a natural material with a universal color combination, suitable for everyday wear;
- leather - used mainly by young girls. Leather skirts are good in the off-season, especially if they are mid-length or maxi;
- knitwear is an affordable material, holds its shape well (especially thick), thin knitwear is good for summer skirts;
- chiffon - breathable, airy, transparent material is especially suitable for summer skirts;
- Chintz and cotton fabrics are a good choice for beach skirts.
Calculation of fabric for a circle skirt depending on the length
As discussed above, the length of the product determines the amount of material needed for manufacturing. If you know your waist size, try experimenting with the length and creating some unique designs. True, you will need a lot of material for this, but the result is worth it.
All calculations can be very easily remembered in the following way: the length of the side of the square is equal to 1/6 of the waist circumference plus the length of the skirt, doubled. This means that for every additional centimeter of skirt length, we increase each side of the workpiece by 2 cm.
Cutting out a belt
Recommendations for cutting out a belt:
- The pattern is represented by an elongated rectangle.
- The length of the belt is equal to the waist circumference plus 3 cm for seam allowances (1.5 cm on each side).
- The width is determined independently at will; to calculate it correctly, you need to multiply it by two and add another 2 cm for the seams.
- Next, you need to cut out an insert inside the belt from adhesive fabric. The length of the tab measurements will be equal to the length of the belt, the width will be half the width of the belt.
How to cut a sun skirt and calculate the amount of fabric
Hello. The sun skirt is very popular for its simplicity and elegance. It creates a feminine, flowing silhouette and is made mainly from light, flowing fabrics.
Mothers sew sun skirts for their daughters, the girls grow up and sew such skirts for themselves.
It's simple. To correctly and accurately cut this model, you need to know the waist circumference and skirt length.
- How much fabric will be needed for a sun skirt, let's do the calculation
Let's say that waist circumference = 70 cm and skirt length = 60 cm.
L = 0.32 * waist circumference + skirt length + allowances = 0.32 * 35 + 60 + 3 = 74.2 cm.
Fabric width (often) = 150 cm. If we fold it in half, we get 75 cm. That is. the skirt can be cut with a fold.
With a fabric width of 150 cm , you will need length D * 2 = 74.2 * 2 = 148.4 cm . Do not forget to check about the shrinkage of the fabric after washing, you may need to add a couple more centimeters, plus add 10 centimeters to the waistband if you want a one-piece belt without seams.
If D exceeds half the width of the fabric, then the layout is on the fabric without folding. For example, if the length of the skirt is below the knee or to the floor.
Depending on the value of D, overlap occurs. The longest length of a fabric cut is D * 4 - 5%.
If you choose fabric with a pattern, such as a coupon, be sure to think about how you will lay out the pieces.
We fold the canvas in half and, stepping back from the edge by the amount of allowance, draw two arcs as in the picture below.
Required measurements
Attention! Any tailor's work begins with taking measurements.
For this you need a tape centimeter. Measure your waist circumference, hip circumference and desired length. It is advisable to write down the measurements taken. Since you can’t get confused in them even by 1 cm.
Ironing process
These types of skirts need to be washed very carefully. Due to the large number of folds, they should not be pressed at high speeds. You can dry it in any position; ironing is allowed only at a temperature of 40-45 degrees.
In conclusion, it should be noted that making a half-sun skirt is quite simple. It is important to know all the measurements and the formula by which you need to calculate fabric consumption. To understand how much fabric is needed for a semi-sun, you need to look at sample product models on the Internet and choose something for yourself. The only difficulties that may arise are calculating the radius for the skirt. For beginning tailors, it will be difficult to figure out the formula at first. But to do this, you can go to various forums, where they can describe what it is and how to calculate it.
How to calculate the fabric for a fashionable circle skirt that can be cut and sewn in an hour?
The “sun” style is suitable for all body types, the main thing is to play with the image correctly. A flared skirt looks feminine and luxurious. Whether you prefer mini or floor length, it will always be the center of attention. Although the fabric consumption for cutting the product is significant, the result will exceed all expectations.
A circle skirt can become part of a business wardrobe, a holiday outfit, it is also good for everyday wear, and is suitable as leisure wear. Such a thing is worth sewing; there will always be reasons to wear it. The classic style can be slightly modified, and the result is an extraordinary product. Complete the set with a jacket or bolero, it's sophisticated and elegant. For such a model, even age does not matter; the length and shade of the material are important here. To avoid weighing down your look, choose blouses and tops with a laconic cut.
Fabric selection considerations
It is a mistake to believe that the style is suitable for summer models. A circle skirt can also be sewn for the cold season. And it’s easy to create a sophisticated look by combining it with a short jacket or fur coat, complementing it with ankle boots or stiletto boots. It is better to choose woolen fabrics; “tartan” will look good.
Genuine leather is suitable for sewing demi-season products. It, like other fabrics, is sold by the metre. The skirt will not turn out to be one-piece, but an experienced dressmaker can handle the cutting without difficulty. Faux suede is a great option if your wardrobe lacks a stylish and beautiful item.
Thick fabrics can also be used for this purpose:
Maximum flared skirts are suitable for sewing evening and festive dresses. Thin and flowing materials play beautifully in warehouses, creating a flying silhouette.
When choosing, we advise you to pay attention to the following fabrics:
Perfect for a summer or vacation wardrobe:
The amount of fabric is determined depending on the waist size and the length of the skirt. The product can be modeled, we will tell you more about this.
Selection of material
The choice of materials for sun skirts is very wide. Most often they are sewn from cambric, chiffon and satin. The style is considered universal for any season. Thin knitwear is perfect for spring and summer, and woolen fabrics for cold weather.
One of the most advantageous options is heavy silk. The silk skirt falls in smooth waves and beautifully emphasizes the figure, making the waistline even thinner.
There are also no restrictions when choosing colors. The model goes well with a variety of ornate patterns, geometric shapes and fashionable prints.
Popular models include both single-layer and multi-layer skirts. If several layers are used when sewing, the top material should be light and thin, and the bottom should be made of coarse fabrics that hold their shape well. This combination allows you to create images for important events and events.
The latest trends feature colorful layers of varying lengths, stylish flounces and ruffles.
Varieties of styles
It is very easy to create a pattern; it is enough to draw two circles, one of which will be the lower part of the product, and the other will serve as the basis for sewing the belt. The resulting folds can be stitched to the middle of the thigh, then you will get a completely new model. Sometimes a skirt is cut with a difference in length, this is stylish and extraordinary. You can radically change the style by adding a yoke, but only an experienced seamstress can handle this task.
If you don't want the hem to be too wide, create a half or quarter sun pattern. The skirt will be flared, but the number of tails will be reduced. Such models do not require much fabric, but they look elegant. To determine which style is right for you, measure your waist and hips. If the difference between them is more than 20 cm, then the length of the product should be below the knees, with the maximum number of folds. The color of the fabric should be monochromatic and rich.
Children's matinees are a long-awaited holiday where every girl dreams of looking like a princess or fairy. A circle skirt made of tulle or organza is the best option. Cutting and sewing will not take much time. And then everything depends on your imagination. The decor can be varied: beads, rhinestones, sew-on sequins, appliqués. Your little one will be the center of attention at any event! We will tell you later how to determine fabric consumption.
Belt processing
The pattern for the sun skirt belt must be processed correctly.
To do it yourself, you will need an iron and step-by-step recommendations:
- Using an iron, the tab must be glued with the adhesive side onto the wrong half of the belt. You can achieve better adhesion if you first slightly moisten the adhesive cloth. To avoid contaminating the surface of the iron with adhesive particles, it is recommended to place a cotton cloth between the iron and the adhesive material.
- You need to fold the belt in half with the wrong side inward and iron it on top.
- Then you need to give the belt a rounded shape, stretching the cut and smoothing out the bends with an iron. This simple manipulation will ensure that the finished product fits evenly around the waist.
- The edge of the belt on the front side must be processed with an overlock stitch on a sewing machine along the cut.
Footage calculation
The important parameter here is the size of the product. The skirt will be one-piece if it is intended for a child, and the length is assumed to be knee-length. This limitation is due to the width of the fabric. You can sew the product from two parts; for assembly you will need to lay the side seams.
Before purchasing a cut, you must accurately calculate the consumption, otherwise you will not be able to cut out the skirt. To find out how much fabric you will need, we recommend making constructions on paper at a scale of 1:10. To do this, you need to measure the width of the fabric, and then build 2 circles from one center with radii R (calculated by dividing the measured waist circumference by 6, minus 0.5 cm) and R1 (equal to the length of the skirt, taking into account the allowance). Make a similar construction nearby, only from the other edge. Then use a scale ruler to measure the bottom of the drawing and determine the required yardage of fabric.
Bottom processing options
There are several options for finishing the bottom of flared skirts. The most common methods:
- Folding the edge of the cut and hemming is a simple option, when performing it it is important to take into account the features of the conical shape of the products. When folding fabric, excess material always appears along the cut, since the radius of the circle after processing becomes smaller than the original radius. On a wider hem of the fabric, the difference becomes more noticeable, and processing becomes more problematic. Therefore, a minimum turn-up within 1 cm is considered ideal. It is recommended to process the edge of the material with an overlock or zigzag, turn the fabric on the wrong side to the width of the processing seam, and stitch it with a machine.
- Making a narrow seam on a folded cut (the second name for the seam is Moscow) - for processing using this method, the fabric is folded twice so that the cut is inside. The lapel is done inside out and should be as narrow as possible, from 0.3 to 0.7 cm. The first step is to turn the bottom half a centimeter towards the wrong side. Then you need to machine stitch as close to the fold as possible. The remaining fabric above the stitching is carefully cut off and the material is folded again. A second seam is made on the wrong side, which should be ironed to complete the processing.
A diagram with a visual demonstration of the method:
- Processing the cut with an overlock stitch or zigzag is a simple, but no less original option. This method can diversify the look and add fluffiness at the bottom of the skirt or serve as a decorative detail if you use contrasting color threads for processing. It is important to use a stitch with a low frequency so that the threads lie as close to one another as possible (up to 3 mm). It is advisable to first experiment with the seam on a test piece of fabric, evaluate the different results of seam density and choose which effect is most suitable. You can process the edge twice to achieve a tighter seam.
- Edging the bottom using bias tape is a technique that combines both finishing and decoration. With this method there is no need to bend anything or leave allowances. The bias tape is folded in half and ironed. The skirt section is placed inside close to the fold of the bias tape. For better fixation, it is recommended to first baste and then sew the seam with a machine along the front side at a distance of up to 2 mm, and iron the result.
It should look like the diagram:
Making a pattern and sewing is easy
To avoid mistakes, we recommend that a beginning seamstress lay out the fabric on a table or floor. The construction must be done on the wrong side of the product. When making calculations, you will need a center to draw circles from it, the radius of which was determined in advance. The second half of the product is built in a similar way. If you have a ready-made pattern, for example from a magazine for sewing enthusiasts, check all the dimensions and you can begin further work. Perform the layout on the spread of the canvas and cut out the details.
If you are sewing a skirt for a child, then the fabric can be folded in 2 or 4 layers, pinned together, and then constructed. This is very convenient and fast to do. You need to cut without unrolling the material.
- Finish the side edges with an overlock stitch.
- Sew the halves of the product together, leaving 18 cm for the zipper.
- Press the side seams.
- Cut out the belt and duplicate the part with adhesive interlining.
- Overcast one long section, fold in half and iron.
- Sew the raw edge of the waistband to the top of the skirt.
- Pin or baste the zipper and machine stitch it.
- Bend the belt and stitch it, perform a finishing stitch.
- Process the bottom of the product.
Now the long-awaited new thing is ready, it’s time to try it on.
As you can see, cutting and sewing a circle skirt is easy; even a novice seamstress can handle the task. And if you still don’t want to bother, go to the studio and replenish your wardrobe with fashionable things.
Work equipment
Before starting work, you should prepare everything that may be needed during sewing.
Sun skirt (the DIY pattern will be described step by step below) and a list of necessary equipment:
- table;
- scissors;
- pins;
- soap or chalk (sharp);
- tape measure;
- threads matching the fabric and contrasting;
- a set of needles for hand sewing;
- lightning;
- adhesive tape;
- iron;
- sewing machine.
Fabric consumption for various products
For a one-piece straight dress, you will need an amount of fabric corresponding to the desired length of the product plus the length of the sleeve, provided that the volume of the hips, taking into account seam allowances and a loose fit, fits the width of the fabric. It is necessary to take into account allowances for processing shoulder seams and the bottom of the product. If the fabric is narrow (70-100 cm), the dress will require two product lengths plus sleeve length. The 120 cm wide fabric makes it possible to cut sleeves from the leftover pieces from the front and back of the dress. In this case, two dress lengths are sufficient. In both cases, you will need a little more fabric to cut out additional details: pockets, cuffs, collar, belt, etc. When determining the fabric consumption for a dress cut along the waist line, you can use the calculation for a one-piece dress, adding 8-10 cm for processing cuts along the waist. For a straight two-seam skirt with a fabric width of 140-150 cm, you will need one length plus an allowance for processing the upper and lower sections (6-7 cm) and plus the width of the belt (10 cm), provided that the volume of the hips, taking into account a loose fit and seam allowances less than the width of the fabric. If the fabric is narrow, you will need two skirt lengths. For a skirt with a circular one-sided fold, the measurement of the hip circumference is multiplied by three and the result obtained is compared with the width of the fabric: will it be possible to limit the fabric to two lengths of the skirt or will another, third length be required? For a half-sun skirt, you will need two skirt lengths plus two notch radii for the waist, plus 10 cm. For a sun skirt, you need four product lengths plus four notch radii for the waist, plus 10 cm. The amount of fabric for a blouse is determined in the same way as for a dress. Amount of fabric for trousers: with a hip circumference of 100-104 cm, one length of the product is required plus 20-30 cm for additional details. For hip circumferences greater than 104 cm, 1.5 product lengths are required. For example, with a trouser length of 102 cm, the fabric consumption is 102 + 51 = 153 cm (see table).
Preparing a skirt for fitting
To properly prepare a skirt for fitting, you need to know the proportions of your figure:
- Put the product on the figure, secure the clasp along the waist line in a vertical position with the point of the pin down;
- Look at the side sections, they should be vertical, strictly in the center;
- The folds should also be vertical;
- Check the location of the hem of the skirt;
- View the location of the darts, because they do not have the same location and depend on the volume of the abdomen;
How should the product fit correctly?
- If the stomach is flat, then the darts are located mainly at the side cut in order to add a little volume;
- Check the depth and length; if it needs to be changed, then needles are inserted along the darts at the end, across;
- View the height and width of the yoke along the waist and hips;
- Check the design of the hem; in such skirts, the grain thread runs obliquely or at an angle of 45 degrees and will be stretched, and the hem will be of uneven length. To prevent this from happening, the product needs to hang for a couple of days;
- You can add weight to speed up the process.
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Tutu model
Now you can try on the product on a person.
Fabric consumption rates for various products depending on the width of the fabric, height and body size
Attention! If the products have additional details (patch pockets, leaves, shoulder straps, flaps, folds, collars of complex styles, finishing details) or fabric with a complex directional pattern, pile, checkered, striped is used, then the fabric consumption increases by 30-40 cm. Source: “The ABC of Sewing”, Zaretskaya T.I.
This help chart will help resolve problems when the width of your chosen fabric is not listed on the pattern envelope.
How to use: The pattern requires 2.10 m of fabric with a width of 115 cm. The fabric you want to buy has a width of 168 cm. Go down the "115 cm" column until you find 2.10 m. Then follow the cross line, on which is 2.10 m until you reach the “168 cm” column. The number you find in this column is the required length of fabric for a width of 168 cm that you should buy: 1.50 m. Add another 0.25 m if the initial and final width of the fabric differ very significantly; if the fabric has a pile, a pattern running in one direction or a large pattern; if the sleeves are one-piece with a shelf (front) of the product; if you are sewing trousers or a pantsuit.
Note: These are approximate conversions intended to be used as a guide only. Please note that fabric yield may vary due to unusually shaped or oversized pattern pieces, changes made to the pattern, or if the fabric is striped, plaid, or has a border running along the hem. Fabric consumption is also greater if the parts of the product are cut out at an angle of 45° to the warp thread. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the presence of pile, the direction and repeat of the pattern, and fabric shrinkage. These fabrics were not taken into account when compiling the table. Source: “The Complete Encyclopedia of Cutting and Sewing”, S. Dorothy
