The toilet does not drain well or does not drain water, what to do in the apartment

Your toilet may surprise you in many ways, but the worst thing is the rise in water level after flushing. If you notice that the water in your toilet is rising too high when flushing, you must react quickly to avoid overflowing.

The most important task is to determine the reason why the water level is rising so much. This could be a partially clogged toilet, a faulty system, or debris in the vent, a clog. Each problem requires a different approach, so keep reading to learn how to prevent your toilet from overflowing.

Clearing the blockage

A small child can easily throw his toy into the toilet. It can get stuck in the water seal of the plumbing. The first thing any person will do is try using a plunger. This simple remedy often solves problems within seconds. By creating serious artificial pressure in the system, the device simply pushes the plug further through the pipes.

Try using a plunger

This can all end well. Having flown through the pipes, the interference will simply jump out into the expanses of the city sewer and will no longer be able to bother anyone. But if the house is multi-story, then having slipped down straight pipes, the blockage may encounter a new obstacle in the form of a turn in the system.

If the pipe is tightly clogged, then everything that is washed away from the upper floors will be on the floor of the residents of the first tier. The top guests, without exception, will see slowly draining water in their toilets instead of a rapid flow.

In this case, a plumbing cable will correct the situation. From the site of a real disaster, namely from the toilet on the first floor, it is necessary to pull out the plug using a flexible shaft or destroy it. Usually such a tool has a hook at the end. It can be used to remove rags and other soft items. There are cables with removable ends. One of them is capable of breaking the cork if it cannot be removed.

Cleaning cable

Blockages in pipes can be caused by organic debris: hair, fats, food and other objects. You can cope with them using active chemistry. There are many products sold in stores that can dissolve organic matter. After reading the instructions, you need to pour or pour the active substance into the drain and wait time for it to take effect.

This method is not suitable for residents of private houses who use a biological station for wastewater treatment. The active environment in the chemical will kill the beneficial bacteria needed for the system to function.

There is another way to deal with blockages that occur in the toilet water seal. But not everyone can cope with it. The volunteer or the punished culprit (if it is not a child) puts on rubber gloves and tries to remove the obstacle from the drains with his hand. The result depends on the perseverance and impressionability of the person.

The water rises up when flushing, and then slowly goes away

Signs of a clogged toilet are difficult to confuse with something else, since in this case, when flushing, the water level rises sharply , but slowly decreases to normal.

This means that the toilet elbow, which is connected to the central riser, is clogged with debris, such as a large amount of toilet paper or hair.

Even without flushing, nothing leaks from the toilet

If the level in the toilet rises even if it is not flushed from the tank, then the problem is in the central riser , and the situation must be corrected as soon as possible, otherwise a flood may occur.

How to clear the blockage?

If the liquid rises up after draining and then slowly leaves, then the problem lies in a normal blockage, which can be eliminated yourself.

Photo 1. Using baking soda and table vinegar, you can clear a simple blockage in any plumbing fixtures.

Using baking soda and vinegar

Every housewife has baking soda and vinegar in her kitchen. To clear the blockage using these available means, you need to perform the following steps:

Scoop out excess fluid from the toilet, leaving some in your knee.
Pour 1/2 a pack of soda (about 250 grams ) into the toilet and push it deep into your knee.
on top .
Wait approximately 15 - 20 minutes for the reaction to complete.
Rinse off the soda and vinegar with boiling water or just hot water.

Important! Do not use boiling water if the connecting corrugation is made of thin plastic, as a crack may appear on it.

Specialty chemicals

a large number of toilet cleaning sold in stores The most common of them: “Mole”, “Tiret”, “Mr. Muscle”, “Floop”. They will clear the blockage and help get rid of anything that has accumulated inside the pipes, for example: hair, grease, salt, limescale.

Reference. Special chemicals are suitable for mild blockages that are only at the initial stage.

Using a plunger

If there is a clog in the toilet elbow that can be pushed through, then using a plunger may be appropriate.

Under the pressure of air and liquid, the garbage plug will be pushed into the central riser, which is much larger in diameter, and will float freely into the sewer.

It is important to remember that the diameter of the rubber suction cup must be larger than the drain hole itself.

Using a “doll” to break through a garbage plug

This homemade device is often used by plumbers to get rid of blockages. To make a “doll” you will need metal wire and a small bag of sand, which is attached to this same wire. The wire needs to be bent to the shape of the toilet elbow, and the resulting blockage should be pushed through

The tank does not fill

The float valve is clogged. Water carries with it mineral salts, sand and scale dissolved in it. Sooner or later, the bottleneck - the valve nozzle - inevitably becomes overgrown.

Advice: a coarse filter immediately after the valve will not remove salts from the water, but will retain all large suspended matter and sand.

Turn off the water to the tank.
Pull out the pin that holds the float lever.
Pull out the lever and valve that shuts off the water.
Clean the nozzle located behind the valve with a thin wire. Then turn on the water for a short time so that the remaining sand and lime is washed away with water. If the valve becomes clogged with debris again during flushing, clean it again.
Reassemble the float valve in reverse order.

We disassemble the tank device

There are several common reinforcement designs that can be called standard. Among them is an outdated type of drainage device with a rubber bulb, assembled according to the simplest scheme and suitable for tanks with side connections. This is a rare phenomenon, uncharacteristic of modern models. Let us turn to the current type of fittings, consisting of two modules: drain and float.

The float on a thick metal wire was improved and turned into a more complex structure that shuts off the water supply not from the side, as before, but from below, although side models are occasionally found.

Parts of the part are adjustable, so you can dose a portion of the drained water.

Due to the similarity of the fitting models, it is easy to replace the entire structure or change individual parts: the drain float mechanism, the drain lever.

To understand how each element works individually, you can disassemble the model installed in the tank. Of course, before this you need to take safety precautions: shut off the flow of water to the riser or supply line and empty the tank.

All parts can be unscrewed manually or using a set of keys. There are almost no metal parts; instead, only plastic elements have long been used. They are quite durable, do not deform when interacting with hard water, do not rust, and are easy to clean with household chemicals.

The sizes and colors of parts from different manufacturers may differ, but the operating principle is absolutely the same. Therefore, if the seal is worn out and a trickle of water constantly leaks from the tank into the toilet bowl, it is not difficult to find a replacement.

To be sure, you can measure the diameter of the ring or simply show the old gasket to the seller.

Chemical cleaning

The chemical method is recommended for use when plumbing fixtures are clogged with biological deposits. The essence of the method is simple: under the influence of a chemical substance, the mud plug dissolves and gradually disappears. Acid or alkali based compounds are used to clean drains. Their form does not matter - it can be liquid, granules, gel, or powder.

Choose a chemical that suits your type of pipes

Before using the product, be sure to read the instructions - pay attention to the dosage of the product and the duration of its “working”. After that, start cleaning:

pour or pour the required amount of “chemicals” into the sewer hole of the plumbing fixture being serviced;
close the toilet lid or bathtub opening;
wait the indicated time until the composition eats away the blockage;
rinse off the “chemistry” and check how the water flows - if the problem is not eliminated, repeat the procedure.

Important! When purchasing a chemical, pay attention to what type of pipeline it is intended for: if your sewer pipes are plastic or cast iron, a universal “chemistry” will be suitable for them, but for steel pipes you should choose special compounds - those that will not react with the steel surface

The tank is flowing, water flows constantly

Reason 1

The bulb (discharge valve) does not completely shut off the water; debris has gotten under it.

Solution 1

Clean the bulb seat from slag, scale and deposits.

Reason 2

The pear has lost its elasticity and does not want to take the shape of the saddle, tightly blocking it.

Solution 2.1

Hang any weight on the pear - an unnecessary coupling, a couple of lock nuts, a lead sinker. The main thing is that the center of gravity coincides with the stem of the pear.

To remove the bulb from the rod, unscrew the thread while holding the rod with pliers. She is normal, right.

Solution 2.2

Replace the pear with a similar one. From those offered in the store, you should choose the most elastic.

Reason 2.3

The tank overflows and water flows through the overflow. The float lever is not adjusted, or the float itself has begun to take on water and is sinking.

Solution 2.3

Bend the float lever so that the water stops a couple of centimeters before the overflow level.

How to fix a toilet float if it is leaky and sinks?

Remove the reservoir from the lever;
Pour the water out of it;
Heat any metal object on gas;
Carefully seal the fistula in plastic.

You can, of course, just buy a new float (it costs a penny) or use a block of dense foam as a float.

Methods for dealing with blockages

It is worth emphasizing that we will look at the most popular and practice-tested technologies, which can be implemented independently without any trouble.

So, what to do if the water in the toilet does not drain well - an overview of the first method of solving the problem.

Chemical method

The essence of the solution is that the blockage is affected by any chemical substances (in most cases they contain alkali). The physics of the process is very simple - under the influence of chemistry, the “cork” begins to dissolve and after some time completely disappears.

Working with chemistry is effective in the following cases:

If the pipes or drain channel are clogged with paper or pieces of fabric.
If the blockage consists of hair or food debris.

Instructions for handling chemicals in virtually any situation are approximately the following:

Open the package or bottle with the substance. Along with this, it is very necessary to adhere to safety precautions and work with gloves and a respirator.

We pour or pour chemicals into the toilet.
We close the toilet lid and leave the room for a while. The “working” time of the substance may vary – from 15 minutes. up to several hours, read the instructions for using the product on the label.
After the required time has passed, open the lid and wash off the chemicals. If it is clear that there is an effect, but the plug is still not completely dissolved, it is possible to repeat the operation.

Advice: before starting such work, be sure to make sure that the tank mechanism is working properly. Since if water spontaneously leaves the toilet, then all the chemicals will simply flow out, as they say, into the pipe and will not have any effect on the blockage.

In addition, consider one more point. If the main pipes are cast iron or plastic, then alkali will not damage them in any way, but steel mains can begin to deteriorate with frequent contact with such chemicals. So try not to clog the toilet, so that later you won’t be surprised why the water won’t drain from the toilet and you won’t have to do unnecessary work.

After.

Mechanical method

This method can be performed primitively - using a regular plunger, or perhaps using a plumbing cable.

The plunger, it turns out, creates pressure, under the influence of which the garbage either “moves away” and goes into the sewer, or floats up in the toilet and is later removed.

But the plumbing cable operates on a different principle - one end of the cable is inserted into the drain hole and pushed deep into the main until the metal hits the plug. When this happens, you need to start rotating the wire around its axis. The point is that the end of the cable will seem to be screwed inside the plug and with subsequent rotations will begin to destroy it.

Along with this, you must always try to move the device back and forth in order to cause greater destruction of the problem point.

By the way, if the question is why the water in the toilet does not flow well, then quite often the blockage is not “located” in the product, but in the main line. It is precisely in this case that it is important to use a cable.

In addition, it is possible to successfully combine the chemical method and working with a cable - after contact with the alkali ends, the blockage becomes less durable and is easier to influence mechanically.

And one more technology.

Hydraulic method

If the toilet does not drain water even after using the two methods described above, then there are only two solutions left - disassemble the line, or try to influence the plug with a water hammer.

The simplest scheme according to which everything can be done on your own:

Take a fairly flexible hose.
Place one end of it on the tap.
Push the second one into the toilet drain hole and push it as close as possible to the plug.
Turn on the warm water at full power.

In theory, if the water pressure in the system is good, in other words, there is a chance to destroy the blockage.

Just be prepared for the fact that with this approach it is very easy to splash yourself if the water pressure hits the plug and seems to come back. Well, if the problem cannot be solved, either dismantle the pipes or bring it to plumbers.

What should you not do if your toilet is clogged?

If blockages occur in the toilet, it is not recommended to:

Pour boiling water into it, trying to melt the blockage - this can lead to the destruction of the ceramics and the appearance of cracks;
Use industrial chemicals and products not intended for sewerage maintenance that are hazardous to the environment;
Use homemade cables and other improvised means that can harm the internal surfaces of communications.

By turning to professionals, you save time and effort, and in some cases, money. High-quality hydrodynamic flushing completely restores the throughput of the entire pipeline, so the recurrence of plugs is excluded.

Ways out, depending on the situation

Elimination of interruptions in the operation of toilet plumbing is determined by the nature of the problems detected. This can be either a simple “click and fix” solution or a whole range of different measures.

To solve the problem yourself, you must first identify the source of the problem.

Incomplete tank

Most often, this type of problem is caused by breakdowns in the operation of the shut-off valves or simply by poor adjustment. First of all, you should check the operation of the float and drain button. If they are in order, you need to examine the condition of the sealing bulb that holds water. It happens that the reasons why the toilet does not flush well are that the seal material is worn out and the water slowly leaves the tank without the inlet valve activating. Naturally, its volume also decreases.

If the tank is constantly leaking, then it simply does not have time to fill with liquid, because it is constantly draining.

Blockages

There are two types of blockages: a blockage in the toilet channel itself (and the siphon) or obstruction of the sewer pipes. In the first case, you can clear the stagnation by simply pouring boiling water (you need to be careful not to crack the bowl body) or with a pipe cleaner. Otherwise, you will have to resort to mechanical procedures: use a plunger or a special cable. Sometimes you also need to clean the neck - for this there are special tablets that are added to the water.

A clogged drain is one of the reasons why a toilet may stop flushing.

Poor or no water flow in the tank

Even slow filling of the storage tank makes it impossible for the toilet to operate normally. If the water stops flowing completely, the source of the problem should be sought in the operation of the shut-off valve. Also, the reason why the toilet in an apartment does not flush well could be a leaky float or the supplied water contains sand and clay suspensions, which quickly clog the outlet. In this case, everything can be done with basic cleaning.

It happens that scale gets into the sewer, which clogs the hose.

Damage to the coating

This reason is not obvious to many, however, it can also lead to slow water drainage. Salt deposits, rust deposits and cracks in the enamel significantly affect the flow rate and ultimately lead to poor rinsing. This problem can be solved either by completely replacing the toilet bowl, or by restoring the coating.

A very common reason for poor toilet flushing is damaged enamel.

Roughness, cracks, scratches and chips prevent waste from completely entering the sewer system.

Preventing poor plumbing performance

It is recommended to install a coarse filter at the entrance of the water supply to the apartment. It prevents the appearance of scale, sand, and large particles of debris in the water.

It is forbidden to throw large objects and food into the toilet - it can get stuck in your knee or riser.

It is worth carrying out preventive cleaning of the bowl and knee. To do this, wash the toilet and treat it after cleaning with household or chemical products.

If there is leakage, moisture at the joints, or an unpleasant persistent odor, you must immediately call a plumber or independently eliminate the cause of what is happening. These kinds of “little things” indicate problems with operation and the appearance of blockages.

Why does the sewer freeze?

Reasons for freezing sewer pipes:

incorrect design of the angle of inclination of the sewer pipeline. Water is not able to move by gravity and stagnates in the pipes, which leads to freezing in the winter;

insufficient burial depth. According to SNiP, the septic tank is installed at a depth of at least 2 meters from the soil level, the pipe system is located below the freezing point characteristic of the region. But a situation is possible when you are simply too lazy to dig a trench for laying pipes deep (or there is no possibility) or frosts exceed the average and the soil freezes deeper;

lack of insulation. Sewage pipes laid above the freezing point of the soil require insulation. The place where pipes exit the room must also be insulated. However, in practice, such a requirement is either ignored, or an unsuitable thermal insulation material is used, or its installation is carried out incorrectly;

small pipe diameter. If we consider consumer reviews, then most often those who have laid pipes with a diameter less than the recommended 110 mm are faced with the problem of sewerage freezing. Owners of summer cottages and houses that are used seasonally are especially often guilty of this. Due to insufficient diameter, the sewer pipe freezes faster;

blockages. They happen due to large objects getting into the system or insufficient water flow, which causes plaque to form in the pipes.

Causes of septic tank freezing:

The drainage from the septic tank is broken. In this case, the septic tank overflows, heavy fractions settle, and the water freezes;

the septic tank is removed from the source of wastewater. Then the water, moving to the waste pit, cools, which leads to its freezing at the junction of the pipe and the septic tank.

Many users who do the work themselves do not even think about whether the sewer system is freezing. After all, the very principle of operation of a septic tank is that it is a container for storing wastewater with actively occurring decomposition processes. Since heat is released during the decomposition of solid residues, freezing is practically excluded. In addition, according to standards, the septic tank is installed at a considerable depth.

However, no one is insured against force majeure, and it is better for the owner of a country house to know in advance what to do if the sewage system is frozen.

Bleeding air in radiators

So, first of all, you should focus on bleeding air from heating devices - radiators. In this case, you should use the already proven option: bleed the air through the Mayevsky valve. This tap is usually installed instead of blind plugs on the radiator, at the highest point. This arrangement implies the accumulation of excess air directly under the valve. In other words, when it opens, the first thing that will come out is air, and then water will come out, which will indicate that the plug in the heating system has been completely eliminated.

To do this, you just need to place a container into which a small amount of liquid will be poured out along with the air. Open the tap and wait until only water comes out, without the characteristic sounds of air bubbles.

What to do

If you believe the clog is in the trap or outlet, you can try using a plunger or plumbing cable to remove it.

plunger

For use in a toilet, you need a plunger of a larger diameter than for sinks, since the cross-section of the pipe is much wider. If you don’t have a plunger and are just planning to buy one, you can choose a model with replaceable nozzles or an automatic device, where the pneumatic shock is created not with the help of your force, but mechanically.

How to use a classic plunger:

Place the plunger against the toilet drain hole and make sure that it fits snugly against the surface; the device should create a vacuum inside the pipe.
Make several back-and-forth movements.
Pull the plunger towards you.
Repeat.

Ideally, after the first flush in the toilet water, you will see pieces of dirt that have clogged the drain. They need to be pulled out with gloved hands and thrown into a pre-prepared garbage bag.

Plumbing cable

The plumbing cable is suitable for cleaning any sewer pipes in the house, including toilets.

Unwind the cable completely. Start immersing it in the water and carefully push it inside the pipe, changing direction. Once you have pushed the cable deep enough, slowly pull it out. Remove any dirt remaining on it and throw it into a pre-prepared trash bag.

These steps must be repeated 3–5 times until the cable begins to come out clean, without large pieces of dirt.

After using the plunger and/or cable, drain the water to check its current and, if everything is in order, use a special pipe cleaner, such as:

Domestos for blockages
Sanfor
Mole
Tiret
Deboucher

They will help dissolve and remove remaining contaminants on the pipe walls.

Due to the large diameter of the pipes, cables with a brush at the end are well suited for toilets.

Carefully!

If there is a blockage in the siphon area, you can try to disassemble it, but this should only be done if you understand the technology and are sure that you will not flood your neighbors. You cannot unscrew the siphon without shutting off and pumping out the water. What to do if all these measures do not work and the water still does not go away? In this case, the blockage is most likely located in the general sewer system and it is impossible to remove it except by seeking help from specialists.

Heating system without air locks

To ensure that air in an individual heating system does not accumulate in problem areas, but goes outside, it is necessary:

correctly design and install the pipeline, correctly install radiators;
use automatic and manual air vents.

Let's look at how to expel air from a heating system with natural circulation and top wiring

When arranging a pipeline, it is important to maintain an inclination angle at which air bubbles move freely upward, to the highest point of the circuit, without accumulating at turns and flat areas. At the highest point of such a system, an open-type expansion tank must be installed, through which air bubbles enter the atmosphere

To bleed air from a system with forced movement of coolant or a gravity system with bottom wiring, a different principle is used

. Return pipelines are installed at a slope (this simplifies draining liquid from the system), and at the top point of all individual circuits, automatic valves are installed through which air is discharged as it accumulates.

In addition to automatic air vents, the system also uses manual Mayevsky valves. Such air vents are mounted on heating radiators - on the upper pipe on the opposite side of the pipe supplying the heated coolant. To ensure that air enters the valve and does not accumulate in the upper radiator manifold, it is recommended to install the heating device at a slight angle. Air release is performed manually as needed.

How to find an air lock?

Ideally, the system independently copes with airing thanks to automatic valves through which air is released. If you discover that a particular heating device or part of the circuit is not working properly, you need to find the place where the air has accumulated.

Touch the radiator - if its upper part is colder than the lower part, it means that coolant is not flowing there

. To release air, open the Mayevsky valve installed on a steel, aluminum or bimetallic radiator, or the valve valve mounted on cast iron batteries.

You can also determine the location of airing by sound - under normal conditions, the coolant moves almost silently, extraneous gurgling and sounds of overflow occur due to an obstacle in the flow

Metal pipes and heating appliances are tapped with light blows - in places where air accumulates, the sound is noticeably louder.

Main reasons

Often the toilet does not flush well due to problems with the water drainage system itself. To solve the problem yourself, you must first identify the source of the problem. Let's look at the possible causes of the problem.

If the water stagnates, then most likely there is a blockage in the sewer. When the liquid passes, but slowly, this means that the blockage is small.
The drain tube is small in diameter. With prolonged use, deposits appear on the walls, which interfere with water circulation. The pipe can become overgrown with them, then only 1/3 of the original diameter remains. This happens especially quickly if water is supplied from underground sources. In this case, it is enriched with mineral salts, which additionally clog the drain.
It is worth checking whether there is water in the tank itself. It happens that scale gets into the sewer, which clogs the hose. Also, the flushing process may be disrupted due to the lack of a tank lid. It must always be reinstalled.
Debris may have gotten inside the drain. Sometimes it's even rubber hoses from the float valve. They are used to ensure that water from the sewer is collected as silently as possible. Usually the hose comes off if the reservoir cap is not in place.
The float valve is not adjusted or is set incorrectly. As a result, it shuts off the water supply prematurely.
The tank is constantly leaking. It simply does not have time to fill with liquid, because it constantly drains.
The float valve is clogged with debris. Its design has a nozzle into which scale or grains of sand can fall. This does not happen if a filter is installed in the hose in front of the tank.
The line to the tank is clogged with some debris or overgrown. This problem is especially relevant if the house has steel pipes.

In a private home, problems with the toilet look a little different. The sewage system here is arranged differently than in apartments. Often, standards are not followed during installation, so the liquid flows slowly. Experts identify a number of reasons for poor water permeability associated with poor-quality installation and the devices themselves in general.

No fan boner. This pipe serves as ventilation for the sewer system. It allows the accumulated gases to escape. In the absence of a vent riser, air plugs form inside the pipes. Because of this, the water stops or simply loses speed. There is an accompanying sign of this problem: gases still find a way out of the sewer. In this case, an unpleasant odor can be heard from the toilet, bathtub and sinks.
Incorrect pipe slope. The problem is related to improper drainage in general. The reason may be either in the section that leads to the septic tank or in the section that leads to the connecting pipe. There is no simple way to fix these problems.
Poorly designed toilet. If the plumbing itself is new, then that may be the problem. A toilet bowl with a shelf often becomes a source of trouble for its owners. Modern models often have a drain in the center or with a slight slope. In this case, the bowls are shaped like funnels.
Location of the drain hole in the toilet. Just one water outlet in the center will not do the job. Flushing in a circle is much better and more durable.

Sometimes the reasons are even more banal. For example, models with a button are fraught with danger. Especially if the tank cap was removed and installed incorrectly. In this case, you may notice that the toilet constantly flushes a small amount of water.

It's not just plaque that can clog water drain holes. Sometimes a simple piece of paper thrown into the toilet also leads to similar problems. It can also cling to deposits inside the drain pipe. In this case, the water does not drain or does so too slowly.

Water seal failure

Often, apartment residents experience trouble with problems with the water seal, which are accompanied by gurgling in the toilet and the spread of an unpleasant odor throughout the room. To eliminate them, you first need to figure out why water is gurgling in the toilet.

The reason for this phenomenon is a malfunction of the ventilation of the sewer system. After all, when an apartment located higher up the riser is drained, the drains falling down increase the pressure in the system up to a certain point, after which they cause a vacuum in it.

Pressure changes lead to the fact that the water seal in plumbing fixtures “breaks”. Hence such troubles as gurgling. In some cases, this process may even be accompanied by splashing water.

Water seal diagram

But what should you do if the air blows water out of the toilet or the water level in the toilet drops after another “gurgling”? There is only one way to solve the problem - to restore ventilation, which will compensate for pressure drops.

First of all, you need to contact specialists to clean the drain pipe that provides ventilation. It is prohibited to carry out such work on your own.

It must be said that there are cases when, even after restoration of ventilation, the problem of water seal failure is not completely solved. This is due to the increase in the number of plumbing fixtures in apartments. In this case, it is necessary to install a special air (vacuum) valve.

The photo shows a vacuum valve

The principle of operation of the device is based on the fact that it normalizes the pressure in the system during drainage, as a result of which the water seals remain intact. If necessary, you can even install several of these valves, placing them near plumbing fixtures.

Note! The vacuum valve must be installed 10-15 centimeters above the highest point of connection between the plumbing fixtures and the sewer system. This requirement must be observed to avoid flooding of the valve.

These are, perhaps, all the most common problems of the sewer system that you encounter from time to time during the operation of the toilet and other plumbing fixtures. They are especially common in old houses, where pipes are often clogged or simply not designed for a large number of plumbing fixtures.

Float misalignment repair

If the toilet does not fill with water at all, this is unlikely to happen as a result of the float being misaligned. But in the case when it enters the system, but not in the required volume, then the float should be checked for its correct location.

To do this, you need to open the lid - under it you will see water, with a mechanism located in it and a lever, at the end of which a special buoy is attached - a float. It is this part of the device that is responsible for drawing water to the required level, after which it closes the inlet valve. It also happens that the toilet leaks after flushing; this may also be due to the float.

In case of misalignment, it begins to prematurely interrupt the supply of liquid, which ends in the inoperability of the device. The displacer is carefully placed by hand into the required position - after this, the operation of the system should be restored.

Reasons for the formation of air jams

The finished closed-type heating system is sealed, but this does not guarantee the absence of air bubbles. Where does the gas in pipes and radiators come from?

Air appears in the heating system for the following reasons:

The coolant is tap water that has not undergone special preparation - when heated, air dissolved in the water begins to release, and plugs form from small bubbles.
The tightness of the system is broken, and air is gradually sucked in through loose connections.
During the repair work, part of the circuit was disconnected by shut-off valves, some elements were replaced or cleaned, and then the coolant was again supplied to the repaired circuit.
The pipeline was laid in violation of standards - the small angle of inclination of the pipes and improper installation of kinks prevent gas bubbles from entering special devices - air vents. As a result, gas accumulates in problem areas and interferes with the normal circulation of the coolant.
If the heating system of a private home fills up very quickly (or when the coolant supply is not at the lowest point), the liquid is not able to completely displace air from complexly configured places in the pipeline and radiators.
Air vents are missing or incorrectly positioned. Also, the reason for the incorrect operation of the air bleed device is its contamination by mechanical inclusions in the unfiltered coolant.

Separately, it is worth considering gas formation in aluminum radiators. When metal comes into contact with a slightly alkaline coolant, hydrogen is released, which accumulates at the highest point of the heating device. If the radiator is not equipped with an air vent, over time the gas lock will not allow the coolant to pass freely through the internal channels of the heating device.

Water does not drain from the toilet and bathtub: causes of the problem and options for eliminating it

Slow water drainage is one of the most common problems with actively used plumbing, both in an apartment and in a private house. The toilet and bathtub are especially vulnerable - probably each of you has more than once witnessed a situation where water stagnates at the sewer openings of these devices and does not go further through the pipes for a long time. The reason for this phenomenon is blockage. It must be dealt with immediately after detection, otherwise the appearance of stench, bacterial growth and mold formation cannot be avoided. Why do such problems arise and what can be done to eliminate them? Let's look further: we bring to your attention the causes of blockages and three ways to deal with them.

Mechanical method - plumbing cable

This method is more effective when it is necessary to remove sanitary napkins, rags, and ropes that have been accidentally or intentionally thrown into it from the toilet. Organic waste can get caught on them, resulting in a clog that cannot be cleared with chemicals alone.

To remove the blockage, use a plumbing cable with a spiral at the end. The thickness of the cable should be at least 5 mm, and the length should be such that it is sufficient to reach the sewer riser. The cable is carefully inserted into the drain hole and begins to be pushed in, while simultaneously rotating the handle at the other end. It is more convenient to do this work together. As soon as the cable hits the blockage, you need to rotate it for a while and carefully pull it out. It is likely that the rag or napkin will catch on the coil at the end of the cable and you will be able to pull it out.

If this does not help, you need to continue pushing the cable further, trying to push the plug towards the riser. The sewer riser has a large diameter and is straight, so the blockage will pass through it without problems. If you are able to push the plug, flush the toilet and pipes with plenty of water to avoid clogging the drain. After cleaning with a cable, you can pour a chemical cleaning agent into the toilet as a preventative measure - during a blockage, the deposition of organic matter on the pipes occurs much faster, and the plaque, in turn, traps small debris and toilet paper, forming a new plug.

Types of faults

Water in the plumbing may not flow through for only one reason - a clogged sewer. However, in order to fix the problem, you need to figure out why the water is rising in the toilet, or more precisely, where it is coming from.

There can only be two options:

Drains from the cistern.
Comes from the sewer.

Below we will look at how to stop the water in the toilet in both cases and remove the blockage.

Removing a blockage using a plunger

Normal clog

If you are faced with a regular blockage, and water enters the toilet from the flush tank, then you should first turn it off to avoid overflow. Why there is water in the toilet is clear to everyone; it all comes down to a blockage in the system.

At the same time, many people do not think about what to do if there is water in the toilet, but immediately call a plumber. As a result, you have to wait a long time for their arrival and pay for the work done.

Therefore, in most cases, it is more advisable to remove the blockage with your own hands, for example, using an ordinary plunger.

This is done as follows:

The bowl of the plumbing fixture is filled with water so that its level covers the drain hole.
For greater efficiency, drains and overflows of nearby plumbing fixtures (bathtub, sink, etc.) are closed.
Then a plunger is placed over the drain hole, and it should completely block the drain.
After this, several active pumping motions are done.
If after this the water in the toilet begins to swirl and gurgles into the drain, it means the blockage has been removed.
If the water does not leave the bowl or begins to leave slowly, the operation should be repeated several more times.
After the blockage is cleared, you need to pour a pan of boiling water into the system.

If you can’t solve the problem with a plunger, you can use special chemicals to clean the drain. The price of such drugs is quite affordable, so anyone can clean the system in this way.

Drain cleaner

The only thing when purchasing a product is to pay attention to what type of pipes it is intended for. This information is contained in the instructions on the packaging.

If the product is incompatible with your type of pipes, it may further damage the sewer system.

Another way to remove a blockage is to use a plumbing cable, which is inserted into the sewer through the drain hole and at the same time rotated slowly. It must be said that cleaning with a cable is the most effective.

Scheme for cleaning a toilet with a plumbing cable

Blocked riser

Now let's look at what to do if water rises in the toilet when the flush cistern is closed. Let us immediately note that this malfunction is more serious and unpleasant, since it is impossible to independently prevent the flow of water into the toilet.

The reason for this is that the sewer riser is clogged below the level of your toilet. As a result, according to the principle of communicating vessels, all drains will rise up into your toilet through outlets and can flood the apartment.

Therefore, if such a problem is discovered, you must immediately contact the appropriate authorities, and also go around the neighbors living higher up the riser with a request not to use the plumbing until the problem is fixed.

Check valve for sewerage

Advice! Installing a check valve will prevent your apartment from flooding with sewage. This device is especially relevant for residents of the first floors of high-rise buildings.

Punching with a plunger

If the cause of the blockage has not been identified, and the liquid, albeit slowly, seeps into the drain, use the proven method - cleaning with a plunger.

The plunger is a common handy item that is regularly used at home. The process of cleaning sewer facilities follows a step-by-step scheme.

Working with this tool is quite simple:

The plunger is installed above the drain hole so that the rubber part completely covers it.
Several strong pressures on the plunger handle force air into the drain, pushing the debris under pressure.
The technique is suitable for small stains. It can also be used as a preventive measure.

The pushing of waste accumulated in the pipe into the sewer is facilitated by the hydraulic shock that occurs when pumping with a plunger. The efficiency of work directly depends on the speed and force of pressing. If the water does not go away after removing the instrument, the manipulations should be repeated. After cleaning, press the flush button and make sure the system is working. There are several models of plungers on sale: Simple bowl-shaped - the cheapest, effective for dealing with small blockages and cleaning pipes in sinks, but not toilets.

But if the plunger turns out to be useless, you will have to use another method - cleaning with a cable.

Chemicals for toilet cleaning

How to clean pipes chemically. More modern and less unpleasant are chemical methods of cleaning pipes. Direct contact with dirt is no longer required here. Since the main cause of blockages is fat deposits on which everything else sticks, the main task is to dissolve and wash away the fat. Household chemicals cope well with this task.

Alkaline chemicals

Alkaline products are most effective in the fight against fat deposits. A fatty film forms on the surface of the pipes, and any debris begins to stick to it. A traffic jam grows. And alkaline agents dissolve this film, thereby cleaning the pipe. Lye dissolves soap deposits and hair that often clog bathroom drains. Such products are recommended for cleaning plastic pipes.

The potent composition is poured into the sink drain hole for 15 - 20 minutes, then everything is washed with a strong stream of hot water. In case of very severe blockages, the shutter speed should be increased, and if necessary, the procedure should be repeated again. Rinsing after soaking the solution can be supplemented by using a plunger.

It is recommended to use the product not only to dissolve plugs, but also monthly for preventative flushing of pipes.

Acidic chemicals

Acidic chemicals work better against organic deposits. This means that they are more effective for cleaning drains after the kitchen. The technology of use is the same as with alkaline products. But a longer exposure is recommended, several hours.

Homemade chemicals allow you to carry out procedures with maximum speed and comfort. There are many chemicals on the market to combat sediment and small debris. Chemical specialized compounds are manufactured in the form of:

powder;
gel;
liquids.

Inexpensive and accessible domestic preparations that eliminate unpleasant odors, remove residual fat and food, and break down hair, wool and threads include Mole. It is manufactured by several independent companies and is distinguished by:

component composition;
cost;
time of cleansing procedures.

List of effective drugs with different prices:

Mr Muscle;
Sanfor;
Pothan;
Tiret;
Floop.

Ways to fix sewer problems

In order to try to remove a blockage in the sewer drain of an apartment or house, you must first determine the location of the blockage.

So, if a problem with water outflow is observed in the kitchen sink, and all other drain points are working normally, it means that the garbage plug has formed specifically in the siphon under the sink. In the same way, you can identify blockages under the sink in the bathtub or under the bathtub/shower stall itself. Depending on the location of the plug, chemicals such as “Mole”, etc., can be poured into the drain hole in accordance with the instructions and eliminate the problem of deposits on the pipes.

As an aggressive anti-clog agent, you can use simple soda mixed with hot water. That is, first pour soda into the hole in the bathtub or sink, then fill it with hot water. After this, vinegar is poured into the hole. The reaction of the components should push the plug or simply liquefy it.
You can also use a standard plunger to remove a blockage in your home drain. Cleaning is easy with it. You need to fill the plumbing fixture with water and tightly cover the drain hole with a plunger. Now you should make rhythmic movements up and down with the plunger, creating a vacuum in the manifold. Under its influence, the plug should either come out (most often it is hair) or go into the waste system. You can clean the sink and toilet in a similar way.

Removing a clog in the sink

If the sink is clogged, it is not at all necessary to check the effectiveness of all the methods described above. Under each sink is a drain elbow, a clunky contraption with a curved tube. Place a container under it, carefully disconnect it from the sink and drain pipe, clean, rinse and put it back in place. Make sure that all seals are installed, otherwise a clogged sink may become leaky.

Another way to clear a clogged sink

Cleaning the siphon is often enough to clear up a clogged sink. If nothing is leaking, great.

If you don’t have any plumbing rescuers, you can try to clean the sink drain pipe with improvised means. For example, take a cardboard milk bag and insert it into the drain hole with a cut corner and press on top several times.

Vacuum cleaner - an assistant in removing blockages

A more effective method is to blow out the drain using a vacuum cleaner. The hose is connected to the blow hole, the other end is fixed to the drain hole of the sink. Usually 2-3 minutes of vacuum cleaner operation is enough.

Clearing clogs with baking soda and vinegar

Well, if as luck would have it, the sink is clogged and the vacuum cleaner is out of order, all that remains is to try the old folk method. Take a handful of baking soda and pour it down the drain. When all the soda is in the pipe, pour about half a glass of vinegar into the hole. It is better to immediately move away from the sink. After about five minutes, you can come back and rinse the drain elbow with hot water.

Surely, trying to clear a clog with baking soda and vinegar will inspire you to buy a plunger the next day. It’s difficult to imagine a shortage situation today, but just in case, let’s have one more piece of good advice: read the issues of “Science and Life” dating back to the 60s. Take an unnecessary children's ball and cut it into two unequal parts. Insert the smaller part into the larger one and screw it with a self-tapping screw to a piece of wood suitable for the role of a handle.

Problems with the tank

Problems with the tank most often arise for three reasons: due to improper installation; after incorrect setting of the fittings; as a result of wear or breakdown of individual components and elements. If there is too much or not enough water in the tank, first of all, it is recommended to check the condition of the float.

If it is held by a thick wire lever, adjustment will be easy. It is enough to slightly bend the metal so that the float changes its position. If more water is needed, the float must be moved higher. To do this, the wire is bent in an arc downwards.

Its main task is to ensure air flow inside the sewer system, which ensures its ability to quickly cope with the transportation of large volumes of water and remove unpleasant odors.

Everything is simple here - its absence entails a lot of problems that begin to fall one after another on their heads. And although these troubles can be counted on one hand, they can make life unbearable for residents of a high-rise building. Such problems include the following.

foul odor
problems with the sewer system

In addition to draining the water seals, the absence of a drain pipe certainly affects the operation of the sewer system - as a rule, it begins to clog more often. The lack of the same full air flow does not allow the system to quickly and effectively remove human waste. This nuance is especially true for sun loungers - if before you had no trouble with them, now you will have to clean them with enviable regularity.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with Geothermal heating of a country house

Now decide for yourself whether you need a fan riser in your apartment or maybe it’s better to put up with its presence? By the way, if you are a resident of a private house, then you should not think that you will not have such problems. It should be understood that no matter the size of the sewerage system and no matter how correctly it is assembled, the drain riser is its integral part, and its full replacement simply does not exist.

Air lock is the cause of stagnation of drains

An air lock formed in the sewer system of a house can also disable the operation of the sewer collector. The air that has stopped in the system simply prevents the drains from leaving through the riser and either returns them back or passes them through, but very slowly and at the same time throws sharp unpleasant odors into the room.

The reasons for the formation of an air lock in the sewer can be as follows:

Mistakes made when installing a plastic manifold (insufficient tightness of the pipeline, lack of connecting fittings, etc.);
Excessive manifold turns, incorrect pipeline drops or incorrectly selected elbow angles;
Lack of a water seal in the installed sewage system;
Possible blockage or icing of the drain pipe in the attic or roof area.

Loose stools. What to do

If you have soft, too frequent, loose stools for a long time, this indicates a malfunction of the gastrointestinal tract. To get rid of diarrhea, you need to understand the cause of its occurrence. Try to strengthen your stool with foods that strengthen it. These are unripe bananas, applesauce, rice, fatty meat, broth, baked goods, mashed potatoes.

An excellent home remedy for diarrhea is black peppercorns. Depending on your body weight, take 10-15 pieces and swallow with water.

When diarrhea continues for more than three days or there is blood in it, you need to consult a doctor and have a detailed stool test done.

The toilet is leaking where it connects to the sewer system

Cause

The putty that ensured the tightness of the connection has cracked or crumbled. As a rule, this is ordinary cement mortar.

Solution 1

Using a narrow chisel or strong screwdriver, be careful not to split the toilet outlet to remove any remaining caulk.
Then dilute the cement mortar (cement and sand in this case are diluted in a 1:1 ratio, you can also use pure cement).
Re-seal the connection. Do not wash off immediately, let the solution set within 24 hours.

Solution 2

An unnecessary bicycle wheel tube can save the situation.

Cut it along the seam. You should have a long ribbon.
Bandage the joint tightly so that each new turn half overlaps the previous one.
Tighten the last turn with thick copper wire. Annealed steel will also work, but it will rust quickly.

The aesthetics, of course, will not be up to par, but we will fix the leak.

Damage to the enamel inside the toilet bowl

If the enamel surface inside the plumbing bowl is rough, or scratched, or there are cracks or chips, all this may be the cause of poor flushing of the toilet. In such cases, experts recommend thinking about buying new plumbing fixtures. But if for some reason you are unable to purchase a new toilet, you can repair the old one.

For this you will need:

special putty (can be replaced with waterproof sealant), which is suitable for ceramic surfaces;
powder paint;
spray gun.

Once you have purchased the necessary material and tools, you can begin repairing plumbing equipment. To do this you need to do the following.

First, you need to clean and degrease the surface of the toilet bowl (from the inside). Secondly, places where there are cracks and chips should be cleaned with sandpaper (preferably fine-grained).

After this, all problem areas must be covered with putty or sealant. Wait for the putty to dry well before painting the surface.

Even if you have restored old plumbing, you still need to think about buying a new toilet. Because painting a ceramic surface at home cannot be compared with factory enameling. In addition, such a coating will not last long, and the toilet will again begin to flush poorly.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The best plumbing repair advisors are experienced home professionals. The results of their work can be seen in the following videos.

Instructions for replacing fittings:

How to avoid buying a new set of fittings:

Replacing an old float with a new model:

All work related to cleaning or replacing drain fittings can be done independently. If you cannot find a breakdown, but you urgently need to fix the leak, you can simply install new fittings - the cost is low. It is advisable to contact plumbers in one case: if you tried to correct the situation on your own, but failed for some reason.

sovet-ingenera.com

Conclusion

In order to eliminate a malfunction in the toilet, as well as an increase in the water level in the bowl, you first need to establish its cause. If it is associated with a simple blockage, then, as a rule, it is possible to eliminate it yourself. More difficult problems should be dealt with by experts.

From the video in this article it is possible to glean additional information on this topic.

Help me please! Yesterday there was a problem with the toilet. Inadvertently, I threw some stinking rice in there (a little), and it washed off the second time. But now, when you flush the toilet, the standing water goes down, as if it is sucked in and returns to its place again. At the same time, a gurgling sound appears in the bathroom. What is this? There seems to be no blockage, since the water is washed off well and quickly. But this gurgling sound scares me, and the fact that the water from the toilet goes down and then returns to its place.

A very unpleasant situation happens when you flush, but the water in the toilet does not drain well, along with all the other “good” things, and the toilet does not flush the first time. This situation often happens if you move into a rented apartment, it seems like the toilet isn’t clogged and everything is clean, but the water doesn’t drain well, and there’s an unpleasant smell.

There may be several reasons why the water rises up and then does not drain well, and the feces in the toilet are not flushed away. The situation is not pleasant, many do not know what to do, they try to clean it with a plunger, but this does not always help.

Reasons why water rises

The source of troubles with a toilet - poor flushing - can be either breakdowns or an unsuccessful design of the bowl or drain system, and in a private house it can also be errors in planning the sewerage system.

Let's take a closer look at what can lead to poor flushing and how it manifests itself:

A blockage in the toilet siphon or sewer pipe. In this case, the water will remain in the toilet bowl or drain very slowly.
There is not enough water in the tank. When rinsing, you can even visually see that there is very little water. Sometimes water from the tank does not stop flowing.
The drainage channels in the tank or toilet are clogged. Water flows from the tank slowly, without pressure.
The design of the bowl or drain does not allow for good rinsing.
The enamel covering the inside of the bowl is damaged. In this case, it will be clear that the surface is no longer smooth.
If there is no drain riser in a private house, an air lock forms in the sewer pipe. In this case, the water can leave slowly and evenly or in jerks - at first it stands, and after a while it quickly leaves.
Human waste

The most common and common cause is toilet paper, food thrown down the toilet, cat litter, tampons, foreign objects, or a child's toys getting into the sewer system in the apartment.

Moreover, this may not necessarily happen to you; it is clogged due to the fault of your neighbors, who were not explained that the toilet is not a trash can. The vertical pipe riser becomes clogged, from which various sometimes ridiculous objects are taken out: towels, underpants, etc.

The first signs of water leakage

The flush function involves the long-term or short-term flow of water into the toilet bowl in order to cleanse it of waste products. The process begins by pressing the button built into the tank and ends arbitrarily or by pressing it a second time.

Instead of a button, there may be a lever or a handle on a chain, like retro models, but such options are extremely rare.

By pressing the button we control the drain valve. It is connected to a locking mechanism, which, upon completion of the drainage, opens the way for a new portion of water to enter from the cold water system. Thus, flushing occurs only at the request of the user.

If water flows into the toilet after flushing or, even worse, constantly flows in a thin stream, it’s time to check the tank’s fittings - one of the parts has failed.

But first you need to determine that there is indeed a leak. Signs of improper drain operation include the following factors:

constant or periodically appearing characteristic sound of rushing water;
rusty and limestone stains at the water outlet;
a constantly wet inner wall of the toilet, close to the cistern, even if the toilet has not been used for a long time;
an unusually long and weak flushing process - a salvo discharge is considered the norm;
the appearance of condensate on the pipes and tank, which never existed.

The last symptom is associated with the constant movement of cold water through the pipe, whereas under normal conditions the water is used periodically and has time to warm up to room temperature before it is drained.

Sometimes the cause of leaks lies in the dirt that has accumulated at the bottom of the water tank. In this case, it is enough to thoroughly clean the internal surfaces of the tank. To do this, drain and turn off the water, carefully remove the fittings and, using a brush and cleaning agents, remove the sediment accumulated on the bottom and walls.

If operational cleaning does not help, you will have to become familiar with the design of the drain mechanism.

Improper installation of sewerage

The next reason is improper laying of sewer pipes, incorrect slope. The diameter of the sewer pipe is incorrectly selected. The diameter of the sewer pipe should be approximately 100 mm (10cm). It happens that construction debris, sand, or mortar gets into the pipe, as a result, the passage of the pipe is reduced and then the ingress of hair, cotton wool or wood litter for cat litter firmly clogs the toilet.

The quality and defects of the toilet itself, you purchased a non-certified product, for example, in China, with a small drain neck with a mousehole diameter of 50 mm.

Installation of sewer pipes is carried out at a slope within strictly defined limits.

If the slope is small, the liquid simply will not flow down them, and if the slope is too large, the water will drain quickly, but the contamination will remain in the pipe.

pipe slope

Paradoxically, excessive “leaking” of the sewer pipe leads to chronic blockages. SNiP give the following values for MINIMUM slopes of sewer pipes:

With diameter

50 mm – 30 mm/m.
110 mm – 20 mm/m.
160 mm – 8 mm/m.
200 mm – 7 mm/m.

The MAXIMUM slope should not exceed 150 mm/m, with the exception of bends for plumbing fixtures up to 1.5 m long. Connecting sewer pipes at right angles is allowed only in a vertical plane.

Folk method - the “rag” method

It helps in severe cases when the blockage cannot be dissolved with chemicals, the cable does not pass through it, and the water does not drain at all or drains very slowly. This indicates that the pipe is clogged with a thick plug made from a wad of paper, difficult to dissolve food debris, cat litter, sand or other small particles. The method is quite dirty, so stock up on rubber gloves in advance.

You need to take an old unnecessary towel, twist it and fold it in half. The towel will twist, forming a dense thick rope. Its ends need to be tied with rope. This tourniquet is inserted into the drain hole by hand and continues to push it into the pipe. By filling the lumen of the pipe, the tourniquet acts like a plunger, which in this case is ineffective, since it does not block the entire pipe and does not create pressure. Performing forward movements with the tourniquet, they try to push the plug. Most often, this can be done quite quickly, after which the water suddenly flows into the pipe. The toilet is washed and the pipes are flushed with plenty of water.

Hydraulic method

It can be used if the blockage is quite deep and the water drains out slowly. This method helps against organic blockages and the ingress of small particles such as cat litter or sand. A hose is inserted into the toilet, the other end of which is connected to the tap, after which the water is turned on, preferably hot. By adjusting the pressure, the blockage is washed away until it is completely dissolved. This method cannot be used if the toilet is completely filled with water - you risk splashing yourself.