Indications for washing on clothing labels: dealing with incomprehensible patterns

“Iron with two points, basin with three” - what does this mean and how to use it?

Many people don’t even pay attention to the tag and calmly wash wool, corduroy and cashmere in the machine. Today we will tell you why you should not neglect the manufacturer’s care, how to choose the most correct cleaning method, what the icons on clothes , and in which cases it is better for you to seek help from specialists.

The symbols on the labels indicate acceptable types of care for clothing. They are compiled by manufacturers, based on the properties of the fabric from which it is sewn. Most often, icons are presented on tags in the form of pictograms developed in accordance with the standard of the international ISO system.

The icons are divided into 5 large groups:

And 3 more important symbols:

What are they needed for

Signs on clothes are a reliable guide for the housewife. Improper care gradually or immediately spoils the item, and even dry cleaning is not always able to help. To ensure that simple and delicate items last a long time and maintain their decent appearance, carefully read the manufacturer’s recommendations before purchasing and washing for the first time. What if your coat can’t be washed at all?

How to wash if there is no label

If there is no tag or you cut it off immediately after purchasing the clothes, follow the general washing rules. First of all, sort your items based on color and fabric type. It is not advisable to wash synthetic and natural items together - silk and polyester or cotton and polyamide.

General washing recommendations:

• Sorting. White and multi-colored items are washed separately. You should not combine bed and underwear with pants, shirts or sweaters.
• Amount of powder. The dosage is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. It depends on the temperature conditions and the volume of laundry loaded.
• Washing program. Choose the most gentle modes, set a low temperature. For delicate materials - silk, viscose, wool - set the temperature to 50°C.
• Spin. If the drum is 1/3 loaded, spin at medium speed, and if it is 2/3 or more, spin at minimum speed.
• Drying. To prevent deformation of fabrics, you should dry clothes not in a machine, but in the fresh air.

Use products with bleaching ingredients carefully. Apply a little powder or gel to an inconspicuous area from the inside out. And only if the fabric does not deteriorate, use the product for its intended purpose.

Signs on tags are graphic and text symbols indicating the features of clothing care. If there is no tag, the item will have to be washed by hand in warm water.

Where to look for signs on things

Labels are usually sewn on from the inside out. On trousers this is the area of ​​the hips, belt or pocket, on shirts - the side seam, skirts and dresses - the hem. Also, strips of fabric with markings are attached behind the collar. Pictograms are international symbols; the manufacturer is required to indicate them on each textile product.

Tip The location of the label is not always convenient: it either shows through or rubs. In this case, save or photograph the label after cutting it.

What are they for?

When purchasing outfits, most people do not look at the manufacturer's care recommendations. But in vain. For example, how are you going to clean a coat that only requires dry cleaning if you live in a small village where there are no such establishments? If you don't follow the rules, the item will quickly lose its attractiveness.

For good appearance and long service life, textiles must be washed with a suitable washing powder.

The symbols that are applied to the label are universal and are adopted in many countries at the legislative level. Therefore, they are mandatory in textile factories.

The label itself is a piece of fabric sewn to the product in an inconspicuous place on the reverse side. In addition to information on how to wash, it most often provides information about the manufacturer and composition of the fabric.

Many people cut off these tips because the tag can be uncomfortable to wear. In this case, it is better to save the label and return to the care instructions as needed.

To avoid turning your home into a warehouse of cut-off labels and to avoid getting confused about which item belongs to which, use this simple advice. Before cutting off the tag, take a photo of it together with the item, and it will be clear which dress or sweater it is sewn on. And when you need information, just find the photo you need in the memory of your phone or camera.

In the following sections we will get acquainted with the symbols that appear on the tags.

Washing: machine and hand

The symbol for any wash is a basin of water. If it is there and is not crossed out by two lines, then the product can be washed. How?

Let's take a closer look at the pelvis:

1. There may be one or two stripes under the pelvis. One requires gentle washing and a gentle spin, two requires the most careful washing in a large amount of water and a quick spin. The stripes are sometimes combined with high water temperature, which means that you need to set the minimum time and slow drum speeds.
2. The number inside the basin indicates the temperature of the wash water. Usually it is indicated from 30 - delicate wash, to 95 degrees - boiling.
3. Another way to indicate water temperature is with dots. The more there are, the hotter the water is allowed. From one to six points are used.
4. Exclusively hand washing for clothes is indicated by hand in a basin; such items cannot be washed in a machine. An empty basin can be safely thrown into the washing machine. Tumble washing is sometimes indicated by a picture of the appliance.

Tip The delicate wash symbols and low water temperatures also indicate the use of mild detergents.

Table 1. Icons showing how to wash the product

General designations

One or two underscores are used with almost all icons and indicate delicate mode.

Crossing out with two lines is a clear prohibition.

Caring for clothing made from artificial and synthetic materials

Most of these materials have properties that are as close as possible to fabrics made from natural fibers.

Viscose is a material made from natural raw materials (wood) using chemical processing. Fabric made from cellulose fiber is close in properties to natural materials. When washed, it shrinks significantly, up to 15%. Hand and machine washable in delicate mode at temperatures up to 40ºC without strong mechanical stress, spin at low speed (no more than 600 rpm). When hand-squeezing, avoid twisting and hang dry only.

This is interesting: Do-it-yourself clothing repair

Modal, tencel, lyocell are modern fabrics made from improved viscose fiber obtained from different types of wood (eucalyptus, bamboo and others). These materials combine the best properties of natural fabrics: they are hygroscopic, hypoallergenic and have thermoregulating properties. Suitable for summer clothes and bed linen.

It is recommended to machine wash items made from viscose materials on a delicate cycle, at a temperature of 30–40ºC, using neutral detergents. Spinning, drying and hand washing are the same as for regular viscose.

Polyamide (nylon, nylon, polyester) – fabric made of synthetic fiber. The material is wear-resistant and has high tensile strength. Washing is allowed in normal mode at a temperature not exceeding 40ºC, with spinning at low centrifuge speeds (600–800 rpm). Dry polyamide products in a suspended state, protecting them from sunlight and away from heaters. Ironing is not necessary, the material practically does not wrinkle; if necessary, use the “synthetic” iron program.

Wash knitwear made from any fibers on a delicate cycle or by hand, without wringing too hard. Dry items on a towel and never hang them on hangers: the items may stretch. In cases where clothing is made from a mixed fabric that contains several different fibers, select a care regimen for the one whose percentage is greater.

Dry cleaning (dry cleaning and wet cleaning)

The circle indicates recommendations for professional dry cleaning. We decipher the letters and icons:

1. Empty circle - dry cleaning is allowed.
2. Crossed out - prohibited.
3. Inside the letter “A” - cleaning with any solvent.
4. Inside the letter “P” - procedures with hydrocarbons, ethylene chloride, and monofluorotrichloromethane are allowed. An additional horizontal line under the circle means a more gentle regime with the same solvents.
5. Letter “F” - tetrachlorethylene and hydrocarbons are allowed. An additional feature is the delicate mode with the same solvents.

Don't bother with dry cleaning icons unless the circle is crossed out. A service employee will figure out how to clean a delicate item.

Table 2. Dry cleaning icons

“Water cleaning” is separately designated. You'll recognize these guidelines by the letter "W" inside the circle:

1. No additions - water cleaning is allowed.
2. A crossed out circle with a “W” or a crossed out filled circle means water cleaning is prohibited.
3. One horizontal line under the circle is a gentle water cleaning.
4. The double feature is the most delicate water cleaning mode.

Table 3. Icons for water cleaning

Dry cleaning

On the label, the dry cleaning icon is indicated by a circle. A detailed explanation of such symbols is presented in the table:

Also on the label you can see the image of a “W” in a circle. This symbol indicates the possibility of aqua-cleaning. The meaning of the icon can be seen in the photo:

The “W” symbol enclosed in a circle indicates that wet cleaning of the product is possible or prohibited.

Spin and dry

This category is indicated by a square. Let's look at some additional notation:

1. A horizontal line in the center of the square means drying things on a flat horizontal surface. If there are two horizontal lines in a square, then it is not recommended to wring out the product.
2. A vertical line inside a square - you can dry it on a hanger, rope or dryer. Two vertical lines - it is permissible not to wring out and hang immediately. Sometimes vertical drying is indicated by an arc at the top of the square, but this pictogram is obsolete.
3. A crossed out square is usually found next to a crossed out pelvis. This means that the item cannot be washed, wrung out or dried.
4. Additional stripes in the upper left corner of the square are a ban on drying in the sun (only drying in the shade is allowed).
5. Circle inside a square - machine drying is allowed. A crossed out circle in a square means machine drying is prohibited.
6. The dot in the circle (from one to three) indicates the drying temperature.

In addition to the square, the symbol of a twisted rope is used, crossed out by two lines. It means a ban on twisting the product during washing and spinning.

Table 4. Icons showing how to dry an item

How can you tell if your soleplate is heating evenly?

Sometimes an iron will heat up some areas of the soleplate much more than others. This usually happens with older models. In this case, it is better to choose a temperature lower than recommended so as not to burn the fabric.

The heating of the sole depends on the material from which it is made:

• aluminum: heats up quickly, but not always evenly;
• stainless steel: fast, uniform heating;
• ceramics - holds temperature well, it is the same over the entire surface of the sole;
• metal with additional coating - can be Teflon, sapphire, etc.; improves heat transfer, ensures good glide, and uniform heating.

Polaris uses Smart Heat technology to make the sole heat up quickly and evenly. Calculation of the optimal thickness and shape of the soleplate, taking into account the power and location of the heating element, as well as the materials used, ensures optimal heat distribution for all Polaris iron models.

To ensure that the sole slides over the fabric and heats up quickly and evenly, Polaris uses specially designed coatings for it:

• anodized coating PRO 7 ANODIZED
• ceramic coating PRO 5 Ceramic;
• special coatings Easy-slide and GraphiTECH.

Ironing

Recommendations for ironing products are intuitive; the iron symbol is used for this. Explanation of symbols:

1. One point inside the iron - iron with a warm iron, temperature up to 110 degrees. This designation is displayed on silk and wool products, for many synthetic samples.
2. Two points - medium mode, temperature up to 150 degrees.
3. Three dots mean a hot iron (up to 200 degrees), such ironing is recommended only for dense natural items. The dots match the markings on the iron, so you don’t have to worry about temperature readings.
4. Two vertical lines from the sole of the iron allow you to use the steam mode.
5. Crossed out iron - the fabric cannot be ironed at all.
6. Crossed lines under the soleplate indicate dry ironing; steam cannot be used.

Table 5. Icons showing how to iron the product

How can you find out the temperature of the iron?

Usually it corresponds to the value set by the thermostat. The temperature will be lower while the sole warms up. At this time, the indicator light will be on. It will go off after reaching the desired temperature.

To ensure accurate thermal control, Polaris uses state-of-the-art temperature sensors. They smoothly control the operation of the heating device, maintain the set temperature, ensuring efficient and safe ironing.

The minimum heating temperature of the sole is usually 75°C (for some models 115°C), the maximum is 205°C (may be higher with high power of the device).

To check whether the sole is warm, you can gently bring your palm to the sole, but do not touch it. When it is heated, it gives off noticeable heat. Another way is to try ironing a piece of cotton or linen.

Whitening

A triangle is used to indicate bleaching. An empty geometric figure indicates that the product will not be damaged by bleaching agents. Usually these are natural white fabrics.

Additional icons for the triangle:

1. Two oblique lines inside the figure warn against the use of chlorine. Only oxygen compounds. The crossed out triangle with the abbreviation “Cl” inside indicates the same thing.
2. A triangle icon with the letters “Cl” without a diagonal cross - feel free to use a chlorine compound.
3. You should not bleach a product if there is a crossed out triangle on the label. Use a gentle stain remover.

Table 5. Icons showing how to remove difficult stains from a product

How to care for fur, knitwear and down jackets

You need to take into account not only the type of fabric, but also the type of clothing.

Fur products

Fur products need careful care, this will increase their service life and maintain a good appearance. It is better to entrust their cleaning to professionals. How can you determine when it’s time to take your fur coat to the dry cleaner? Carefully inspect the fur. If it's not as smooth as it used to be, it's dull, or it feels greasy to the touch, then it's time to visit the dry cleaner.

Down jackets

Outerwear filled with down requires some care. Down jackets should only be stored flat. Do not leave jackets in a damp state under any circumstances; down tends to rot, and quite quickly.

Also, such clothes have another interesting property - after absorbing sweat and sebum, they stop warming. In this regard, it is recommended to take down products to the dry cleaner every year.

Featherbeds, pillows, blankets with feathers and down are no different in care from down jackets, but they still need to be dry cleaned periodically for proper care and disinfection.

Knitwear - things for every day

It is difficult to imagine a modern person’s wardrobe without knitwear. Knitted products made from natural fiber perfectly absorb moisture and allow air to pass through, and are durable and soft. Synthetic knitwear is easy to maintain, but hardly “breathes”. The main disadvantage of knitted clothing is the formation of pilling.

Careful care of knitwear will help prevent the appearance of pilling

It is advisable to wash knitted items by hand or on a delicate cycle, wringing without twisting. It is necessary to dry in a horizontal position, placing a towel under the product. You can iron knitwear, but you should pay attention to the direction of the loops - no one likes ironing against the grain, including knitwear. The symbols on the label will tell you about the rules for caring for knitwear.

Letter marking

In addition to graphic signs, there are markings in English. Let's look at the meaning of these inscriptions.

Table 6. Translation of English symbols

Machine drying in a drum dryer.

This is interesting: size 86 children's clothing for what age
Up

Additional unusual icons on things

In addition to standard care symbols, there are also unusual recommendations.

Table 7. A selection of rare pictograms and their meaning

As a joke, clothing manufacturers put messages on the tag such as "Superman T-shirt does not give the ability to fly," "Not edible" or "Give this to your mom, she'll figure it out."

Important Both washing, ironing and drying affect the appearance of textiles. Faded color after a couple of months of wear, pilling, frayed patterns - all this is a consequence of improper care of clothes.

Designations of fabric composition on clothing labels in Russian

The composition of the fabric directly affects its properties and appearance. Products can be made from one type of raw material or from several. In any case, the manufacturer must indicate the percentage of all components on the label.

Let's consider the types and basic requirements for caring for different fabric compositions:

1. Wool products have good heat-saving properties, but are quite difficult to care for. They cannot be washed in a machine; exposure to hot temperatures may cause the clothes to shrink. Woolen products are delicately wrung out by hand and dried horizontally. It is rare to find 100% wool fabric on the modern market; it is usually “diluted” with synthetic fibers. This extends the service life of the product and reduces its cost.
2. Cotton products are natural, soft, comfortable. The scope of application of cotton in textile production is almost limitless. Cotton is easy to care for and can be ironed at high temperatures using steam. The main subtlety is not to overdo it with colored items; they should not be bleached or washed in too hot water. There are no these restrictions for white cotton.
3. Linen products are durable, hypoallergenic, and pleasant to the touch. But they have a big disadvantage - they wrinkle too much. Linen is used for shirts, summer women's clothing and bed linen. Products should be washed and ironed in accordance with the information indicated on the label.
4. Silk clothing has a special chic and comfort. 100% natural silk is too expensive to ignore the basic rules for its care. It, like wool, can shrink. Do not machine wash it. Hand washing in lukewarm water will extend the life of silk clothing. It should be dried away from the sun and ironed at low temperatures on the reverse side.
5. Products made from viscose are very similar in properties to cotton. But you need to be more careful when caring for them. You can iron viscose on a double iron without steam. Wash on delicate cycle.
6. Leather products cannot be washed; to care for them, use dry cleaning services. If leather clothing becomes worn during wear, it can be dyed.
7. When caring for knitted fabric, which can be wool, cotton, or synthetic, always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Knitwear should not be twisted too much; it is advisable to dry it horizontally. Take special care of wool items. After washing, place them on a towel and immediately shape them into the desired shape.
8. Synthetic clothing occupies a special niche in textile production. What was perceived as something new for several decades has now reliably fit into our everyday life. Synthetic fibers are present in most modern clothes. They not only extend the service life of products, but also make them more practical.

Among the main synthetic components in clothing are: polyester, nylon, spandex, lycra. The main rules for caring for clothes with synthetic fibers are as follows:

• do not use too high temperatures during washing;
• 100% synthetics are ironed on a one, mixed compositions - on a two;
• Synthetic products cannot be bleached;
• items with a high content of elastic fibers are recommended to be wrung out gently;
• To make clothes less electrified, use fabric softener;
• It is advisable to dry the products in a horizontal position.

Some general care tips

If you follow all the recommendations on the label, problems usually do not arise, but there are also additional tricks:

1. Separate white, multi-colored, black and red - separately, these piles better retain their shade.
2. Wash synthetics, wool and cotton separately, even if they are specified at the same temperature - they need different wash times, and the cotton lint wraps around the synthetic fibers, causing both materials to form pills.
3. Be sure to check your pockets! Accidentally forgetting a notebook for notes after one wash will disfigure the entire load of laundry with small specks of paper crumbs, which will take a long time to clean off with a vacuum cleaner or clothes roller. And coins or nails will leave a legacy of rusty stains. The handles are not worth mentioning. These spots are unlikely to go away quickly.
4. It is better to turn tights, socks, knee socks and generally all knitwear, including T-shirts, inside out - this way there will be fewer pills or they will hide on the inside out.
5. Never wash clothes with shoes.
6. If the item is delicate and has accumulated a lot of dust, so that a short cycle will not cope, do not add either time or washing gel - this will damage either the item or the device. Throw special laundry balls or 3-4 white tennis balls into the drum.

Features of the first wash

Instructions for the first washing of clothes from experienced housewives:

1. For color: soak the item for several hours in paint protectant or saline solution.
2. Dissolve the powder or gel well when hand washing.
3. Wash the item separately from others.
4. To check if the fabric is fading, wet a small area with warm water and wring it out. Sometimes the manufacturer includes a fabric sample along with the label, experiment with it.

All icons on the labels are conveniently structured, so now you won’t get confused in the basic designations. And complex additions can always be seen in this article.

How do you know what temperature to iron at if there is no label or markings on it?

Each fabric has its own ironing mode:

• cotton: 150 to 200°C, depending on thickness. If the material is mixed, with the addition of polyester, set 110°C;
• linen: 175-205°C or higher. The iron is turned on to maximum when the thickness is large, if the item is overdried or heavily wrinkled. Pure linen is easier to iron, additionally using steaming;
• wool: about 180°C with mandatory steaming. It is necessary to iron with care so that the fabric does not become deformed. This can only be done for woven wool garments (not knitted);
• silk: up to 160°C. Silk items should be ironed inside out. It is better to lay a thin damp cloth so that the item does not become deformed. Iron chiffon in the same way;
• viscose-based materials: up to 110°C dry, without steaming or wetting;
• velvet, plush: up to 110°C, from the inside out, through a thin, dry cloth, without moisture.

Some fabrics cannot be ironed or steamed at all:

• polyester;
• polyamide;
• terry items;
• nylon;
• materials with coffee, grease or other stains on them.

Special care icons in pictures - photo gallery

The symbols on the label recommend drying the product only.

It is recommended to handle down jackets with care; down is very capricious. This also applies to duvets.

Leave the care of your favorite fur coat to the professionals. Sheepskin coats are recommended to be dried at low temperatures

Sometimes manufacturers sew not informative, but funny labels onto things. Just watch and enjoy.