Chipboard painting technology: selection and calculation of paint, stages of work

Chipboard is used in many areas. This is facilitated by its availability and low cost. In addition, it is a more environmentally friendly replacement for other materials. Chipboard can be used :

• as a fence;
• as ramps for various sites;
• in furniture production;
• as cladding;
• for headsets;
• in the form of interior partitions.

The logical completion of the work would be painting the chipboard.

How to paint chipboard and fibreboard?

The choice of paint is a very important process; the final type of coating depends on this.

Paint for chipboard

The solution is selected taking into account several factors that depend on the type of surface and external parameters. It is recommended to use the following types of compositions:

• Acrylic. This option is well suited for painting particle boards, but has certain limitations. The main thing is that the mixture cannot be applied to an unprepared surface; priming must be performed. The fact is that the composition of such paints is water-based, which is quickly absorbed and can cause destruction of the slab.
• Latex. They are also a type of water-dispersible materials. Their use allows for excellent protection of products from moisture. The application technology is similar to acrylic mixtures, but such products have several disadvantages: relatively high cost and labor-intensive removal of the decorative layer.
• Alkyd. Enamels are a traditional option for such an event. They can be laid without prior priming, but the consumption of the mixture will increase significantly.
• Stain. It is used as an impregnation to create a certain texture. Using stain for chipboard does not give such an impressive result as when working with natural wood, but it allows you to get a good decorative effect. This option is an excellent solution for chipboard.
• Varnish. This composition has many tint varieties; colorless is used to protect the surface.

A good option is spray paint. But aerosols do not allow painting a large area, so they are used for decoration.

Compositions for fiberboard

Not all types that can be used for chipboard are suitable for fiber boards and panels. For example, water-soluble paints do not have good adhesion to such a surface, since fiberboard contains paraffin, which repels water. That is why, when choosing acrylic mixtures, a deep penetration primer is additionally selected.

In addition to water-based emulsion, materials can be coated with the following types of coloring solutions:

The use of budget formulations is justified in most cases

• Oily. This variety is used less and less due to toxicity, pungent odor and long drying time.
• Alkyd. A good option that is suitable for all types of products made from wood materials.
• Drying oil. It is used as a decorative and moisture-proof impregnation, which is additionally coated with varnish. An alternative could be stain.

For decorative varieties, a quick-drying colorless varnish is suitable.

Rules for applying varnish with your own hands

Wood chips and resin have different absorbent properties. When decorative compounds are applied to clean chipboard, a non-uniform color is obtained. The primer promotes uniform distribution of the coating. Therefore, the main rule for varnishing particle boards is mandatory priming.

How to varnish chipboard:

• the cleaned surface is coated with a primer;
• polish;
• apply the first layer of varnish;
• after complete drying, sand again;
• coated with a second layer of varnish;
• finally level the dried surface.

The varnish is applied with a brush, and for a more uniform coating, a cotton swab with cotton filler is used. When applied with a swab, the composition saturates the surface well.

Coloring stage

It is best to paint chipboard surfaces in a horizontal position; in this case, the paint will apply evenly without forming unnecessary drips. If your base is located vertically, then you need to apply the paint smoothly from top to bottom. For small details you can use a brush, for large surfaces - a roller.

For best results, the paint should be applied in 2-3 layers, with each previous layer allowed to dry. Therefore, you should not rush and do everything in a hurry. Apply one layer, wait 15-20 minutes, then apply a second, etc.

Particular attention should be paid to the processing of joints, corners and other elements. Only after all layers of paint have dried can you proceed to varnishing

It is necessary to prevent damage, as well as to give the surface the desired shine and attractiveness.

Only after all layers of paint have dried can you proceed to varnishing. It is necessary to prevent damage, as well as to give the surface the desired shine and attractiveness.

The varnish is applied in 1-2 layers using a sponge or thin brush. Both matte and glossy varnish are suitable for these works, it all depends on your tastes.

You already know how to make chipboard yourself, but finally, here are some useful tips when working with this material.

If you want to paint the base a dark color, you must first apply 2-3 layers. To increase the service life of a chipboard product, the working surface should be treated with a special deep penetration mixture.

Sanding is done before painting begins, after stripping and applying primer.

When working with chipboard, it is better to use paints and other materials from one manufacturer. To obtain an even and smooth painted surface, you can use a short-pile roller; to obtain texture, use a long-pile roller.

During the painting process, always use protective equipment and thoroughly ventilate the room.

Video on how to paint quickly and efficiently:

And do not forget that any process involves obtaining the desired result, the main thing is to choose the right means and methods for its implementation.

Sometimes when remodeling furniture the question arises of how to paint chipboard. This material is one of the most common materials for making furniture; it is also used in construction and renovation work. Chipboard (chipboard) has been used in various fields for decades, furniture made from this material is especially common.

Chipboard consists of wood chips glued together with formaldehyde resin. Since wood chips can become unstuck under external influences, they are protected with an outer coating - this can be a layer of varnish, paint, polypropylene film, etc. In addition to protection, painting chipboard also creates a decorative effect, since this method can create surfaces not only of different colors, but also with different textures.

To restore the attractive appearance of chipboard, it is enough to update the paint layer, thanks to which products made from this material acquire their own unique style. Also, painting chipboard increases its moisture protection and makes the material resistant to ultraviolet rays. When painting work is carried out correctly, old furniture and other chipboard products not only get a new look, but also extend their service life. Also, coating chipboard with paint reduces its impact on humans (over time, resins tend to evaporate, and paint prevents this process).

An important point is what the chipboard is coated with on top - varnish. There is no veneer, paint, film or coating. Of all the options listed, laminate is the most difficult to paint over. It must be covered with several layers of primer, and no one guarantees the result.

Aftercare rules

How to extend the service life of painted furniture and chipboard structures:

• do not install in direct sunlight or near heating devices;
• do not place dishes with hot drinks and dishes on the countertop, use mats;
• before transportation, pack in cardboard boxes, wrap the corners with newspaper;
• clean surfaces from dirt with a slightly damp cloth, you can use a soap solution;
• do not rub with a hard brush or metal sponge;
• Do not clean with abrasives or household chemicals containing chlorine.

If the coating is cracked, do not allow moisture to enter the crack.

Coloring stages

All work is carried out in several stages. It is not recommended to cover furniture with new paint without removing the varnish - this will greatly deteriorate the quality of the finished surface. It is better to carry out the restoration in accordance with the advice of professionals, which will make the result beautiful and durable.

Surface preparation

Removing the old coating is the main stage of preparing furniture for repair. You can remove varnish in different ways - mechanical, thermal and chemical. Experts prefer to use a hair dryer for thermal removal of varnish. The procedure is as follows:

put on a protective suit and gloves, not forgetting about glasses; run a hairdryer over a small area of ​​the surface, warming it up well (instead of a hairdryer, some use a blowtorch, but this method requires extreme caution so as not to damage the wood); take a spatula or knife and scrape off the varnish coating.

The mechanical method is more labor-intensive. You should proceed like this:

• remove drawers from furniture, remove all fittings;
• Wash fasteners, handles and other accessories well with soapy water, use soda if necessary;
• wipe the furniture with soap and powder to degrease it and remove dirt;
• rub off the varnish using a scraper, coarse sandpaper, or a metal brush;
• sand the surface with fine-grain sandpaper or a sander.

You can also get rid of the coating using a chemical method; for this purpose you will need a solvent that does not harm the wood. The remover is applied to the surface of the object with a brush and left under the film for 3 hours. Afterwards, using a spatula, carefully remove the old varnish.

Putty damage

To accurately assess the condition of the furniture, it is recommended to disassemble it into as many elements as possible. This way it will be possible to treat even the most inaccessible places and replace all the old, broken, ugly fittings. After sanding is completed, get rid of dust (wipe the furniture with a dry cloth or vacuum it). Next, an antiseptic is applied so that the product is not damaged by fungus in the future.

All large and medium-sized defects must be thoroughly puttied. It is better to buy transparent putties - they are suitable for any type of wood and do not change its structure. The putty should be applied in a thin layer and leveled well so that the surface remains smooth. After allowing the layer to dry completely, apply it again if necessary. At the end of the work, the treated area is sanded again.

Degreasing

Carrying out this procedure increases the service life of repaired furniture. Also, degreasing significantly improves the adhesion of paint to the surface and makes the coating layer uniform. To do this, use any detergents. They are diluted in water, wiped over the surface of the product, and washed off.

Wipe dry and dry until moisture completely disappears. If puttying has been done beforehand, it is better to use alcohol or vodka rather than an aqueous solution for degreasing. Stubborn stains of grease and dirt can be removed with table vinegar.

Painting process

Immediately before painting, priming should be carried out, for which only transparent primers are used. The product must be applied not only to the putty areas, but to the entire surface - the primer reduces paint absorption and improves adhesion.

Painting is done as follows:

1. All elements that will not be painted must be removed or sealed with paper tape. This way you won’t have to wash them after the restoration is complete.
2. Apply paint to each element separately. It is better to use a roller, so the paintwork will lie flat. Particular care must be taken to paint drawers and shelves, dry them separately, and only then fasten them in place. You need to make sure there are no paint drips.
3. After drying, apply another layer of material to the furniture. This way the result will be fixed.
4. Assemble furniture. You can install it in place.

Proper drying

Acrylic, latex and other water-based paints take a long time to dry. To prevent furniture from getting in the way, it is better to prepare a place for working and drying in advance. Each layer takes 12-24 hours to dry, and many enamels are harmful due to their fumes. You cannot live in the room where the furniture is, and children and animals cannot be there, even temporarily. The best temperature for drying is 20-23 degrees, so the coating will dry within the time specified in the instructions. If the temperature is lower, drying will take longer.

Selection of materials and tools for painting chipboard furniture

If you decide to repaint old chipboard furniture yourself, start with the main thing - careful planning. Think through your future image down to the smallest detail. What exactly do you want to see: a mirror-glossy, but monochromatic surface in bright colors of the rainbow, matte patination with several pastel shades, special techniques (decoupage and others) or simple tinting under stained oak, teak or wenge. Do you need to replace fittings or parts? Check the compatibility of the selected tones using the designer’s color wheel.

The next stage is the selection of materials. Depending on the project you will need:

1. Tools
   : wide and narrow flat brushes, short-haired foam and velor rollers, masking tape, screwdrivers, coarse and fine-grained sandpaper, paint tray, universal glue, spatula, hair dryer.
2. Construction chemicals
   : acrylic wood putty, solvent, remover of old paintwork.
3. Paints
   : adhesive primer for wood and chipboard, acrylic or alkyd furniture paint, tinting pastes, tinting impregnation and varnish.
4. Auxiliary materials
   : soft rags, gloves, new fittings.

The primer not only reduces paint consumption (Lakra GF-021), but also levels the surface, strengthens it (Helios Tessarol, Dufatex-Grund, Dyostar), and some contain antiseptic additives (Belinka Base).

To repaint furniture, it’s not enough to go to the store and pick up the first budget paint you come across. You need to choose carefully, because the updated façade should last at least 5-7 years. Therefore, it is better to avoid cheap PF-115 of unknown production with a high lead content - it is easy to get poisoned, but difficult to recover from. It is better to take oil compositions from trusted manufacturers: Rastsvet, Yaroslavl paints, Tex, Dyo, Tikkurila, Dulux. You can purchase time-tested furniture enamels and varnishes from Galamix, Raduga, Novbytkhim.

The same applies to acrylic (water-based) and alkyd enamels, but here the choice is expanded to include aerosols. The latter are very convenient for application to laminated coatings, as they provide a perfectly smooth coating without drips.

The water-based acrylic paints are also good because they can be diluted and washed off with water until dry, and tinted to any color using pigments.

Another point is calculating the required amount of paint. Before purchasing, you need to measure the area of ​​chipboard that needs to be painted and multiply it by the estimated number of layers. On average, consumption is 1 liter per 5-6 square meters. m.

The process of selecting tint and varnish is simple. They also differ in basis. The strength of the coating depends on the content of the polyurethane polymer, so it is better to choose alkyd-urethane or special water-based furniture varnishes - they contain additional additives that provide impact resistance and abrasion resistance (Lakra, Alpina, Pinotex, Dyo, Tikkurila). Tinting mixtures should have good permeability and give a uniform tone without spots or whitish streaks (Belinka, Practic, Helios).

Often, for do-it-yourself tinting, you use drying oil or a simple stain for wooden products.

Preparation and painting of chipboard

Any work on painting chipboard at home consists of several stages. You should not neglect them if you ultimately want to get a high-quality result. Furniture made from particle board must first be prepared for painting.

Before painting chipboard furniture, you need to decide on several questions:

• full and partial repainting is planned;
• coloring design, that is, completely in one color or combined.

Let's look at all the stages using a specific example of how to repaint a chest of drawers

In principle, it doesn’t matter what they repaint, the main thing is to understand the process, and it can be applied to any furniture

In the video: painting chipboard products.

Surface treatment

Before painting chipboard furniture, it is important to properly treat its surface and prepare it for painting. Initially, the chest of drawers should be disassembled into individual elements. Remove all drawers, disassemble them if possible and remove fittings

It will be easier to process them and paint high-quality chipboard furniture with your own hands.

It is necessary to sand until the old paint completely disappears. We also make sure that no greasy stains or other contaminants remain on the surface. Otherwise, quality painting cannot be guaranteed. When sanding, movements are performed in a sweeping manner and along the fibers.

After completing the rough processing, we clean the parts of the chest of drawers from shavings and dust. You can use a flat paint brush. It is impossible to work efficiently with this rag. On the contrary, the rag will clog shavings into the smallest dents of the chipboard slab, which will negatively affect the quality of the paint.

The main thing in this process is to treat difficult areas. When finishing the process, we completely clear the chips again. At the final stage, we wipe the parts of the chest of drawers with a damp cloth, then wipe them with a dry cloth and let them dry thoroughly.

Padding

Painting work should not begin without first priming the furniture parts. Treating them with a primer will significantly improve the quality of painting. It is better to use an acrylic-based primer composition.

Painting furniture made of chipboard is done either with a brush or with a roller. The main thing is that the layer is as thin as possible. After applying the composition to the surface, leave the parts for some time to dry completely.

Choosing a paint shade

While the primer dries, we select the tone of the paint. If you plan to paint it in a single color, for example, white, then there won’t be any special nuances. If you decide to be creative and paint old chipboard furniture in combined colors, then you should choose tones that are comparable to each other. We choose the main color, and then select related tones for it, as if shading the main palette.

Before you paint the chipboard with dyes, you need to apply the paint to the unwanted wooden surface to determine the natural shade. This is justified by the fact that acrylic paints change tone when drying.

Application of paint and varnish

Next, we’ll take a closer look at how to paint chipboard with your own hands. At the first stage, we decide on the coloring solution, or rather on its quality. It should be of optimal consistency, neither liquid nor thick. It should also not contain dry grains.

Next, we determine the number of layers to be applied. Here the consumer himself must decide, taking into account the condition of the old chipboard furniture, personal preferences and other factors. But, experienced craftsmen advise applying at least two layers. It is imperative that each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried. To apply the layer evenly, paint should be done using a roller or brush, moving in the same direction.

The next step is to fix the paint with varnish.

To do this, wait until the paint has completely dried and apply varnish to the surface using foam rubber. To do this, dip the foam rubber into a container of varnish and apply it evenly and gently onto the layer of paint. For better effect, repeat the procedure several times, naturally after the previous layer has dried. After waiting for the last layer to dry completely, you can assemble the chest of drawers.

Additional touches can be added to add originality or achieve a vintage design. Draw golden lines or artificially age them. The main thing is not to leave smudges or other marks when performing additional strokes. You can ruin all the work done. For insurance, it is better to use masking tape.

Painting Tips

• If necessary, you can use a brush or roller. But in this case the paint must be applied in several layers;
• After painting, irregularities may appear on the paint layer. They must be removed by sanding with fine sandpaper;
• When using aerosol paint, the bottle must be kept at a distance of about a third of a meter. In this case, before use, the can must be shaken for at least a minute;
• If possible, when applying paint, it is better to position the sheet horizontally in order to avoid drips. This principle should be applied both when using aerosol paint and when using the manual method. If there is no possibility of a horizontal arrangement, then it is better to paint with movements from top to bottom;
• After the paint has dried, it is recommended to varnish. This way you can provide the paint layer with reliable protection in the future. At the same time, when working with acrylic paint, it is better to also use acrylic-based varnish;
• To achieve an even layer of paint when working with a roller, try to use a short-haired tool. At the same time, there are rollers that allow you to leave textured patterns on the surface;
• When painting, seal with masking tape or otherwise cover those areas that should not be painted. If paint gets into such places, try to wipe it off as soon as possible;
• Despite the fact that almost all modern paint and varnish products are non-toxic, it is better to ventilate the room while working at home. It doesn't hurt to wear a respirator;
• Try to choose a paint with good hiding power. Otherwise, the original color will show through the paint layer and you will have to repeat the coloring almost immediately;
• It is better to apply the next coat of paint no earlier than after 24 hours. In this case, the total time for the composition to set and gain strength is approximately 3 days.

How to fix minor defects

To restore and repaint old furniture, it must first be disassembled. The more individual elements you have, the easier it is to work on particularly hard-to-reach areas.

If you are going to paint furniture yourself for the first time, then paint with a roller rather than a brush, so you can cover the desired area more evenly.

All damage and dents are puttied and cleaned. You can apply an additional layer of antiseptic to prevent the formation of mold and mildew. If you do not plan to paint the product, but only varnish it, buy transparent putty. It will not stand out against the background of the entire wooden surface. To correct defects, work in thin layers, which must dry well.

It is better to apply putty several times than to create a dense layer that will take a long time to dry and possibly become deformed during the painting process.

Painting

Tools with velor or foam tips are suitable for creating a smooth surface, while those with long piles are suitable for adding texture. The ends, corners and other hard-to-reach places are treated with a small brush. It is easier to determine the required size while working with paint for chipboard furniture.

The composition of the selected color should be applied in one direction with quick movements, without paying attention to stains that appear after absorption. The second layer is applied a day later with a thicker composition. After drying, apply the finishing coat.

So, you will have to paint in two layers, allowing the first layer to dry well.

High-quality painting of interior doors: tips from a painter

Every theater begins with a hanger, and the interior of any room begins with a door, which sets the mood and makes a significant contribution to the atmosphere of the interior and is an important element of the zoning of the room.

Many people who have started renovations underestimate the need to update interior doors, focusing on the choice of wallpaper, flooring and furniture. As a result, an unpleasant contrast is created between a brand new room and an old door that has lost its appearance

But this can be avoided if you paint the interior doors yourself. Provided that the paint is selected correctly and the painting technology is followed, the result will be excellent, which will allow you to create a complete, harmonious interior and at the same time significantly save money.

Painting chipboard floors: materials and stages of work

One of the most effective ways to preserve the integrity of a chipboard floor covering and give it high strength characteristics is to paint it yourself with high-quality floor enamel or parquet varnish. Moreover, it is not necessary to limit yourself to just one color. By playing with shades, you can visually expand the space, place bright accents, and zone the room. And such a simple technique as stencils with patterns will allow you to create a designer floor in a few days.

The required set of tools and materials includes:

The primer used is the same type as for furniture, but the paint should be designed specifically for the floor. Simple acrylic quickly wears out, loses its gloss and attractive appearance.

To repaint the floor covering, you need to choose enamel with improved quality characteristics (impact resistance, resistance to fading, scratches).

Alkyd compositions can only be used if the last layer is varnish. But even in this case, a simple wood varnish or a universal one like NC will not work. This should be parquet varnish with polyurethane additives (Practic, Dyo, Belinka, Marshall), which provide increased surface resistance to abrasion and mechanical stress. Oil paint PF-266 (Lakra, Yarko, Rastsvet, Chief Technologist) and polymer floor enamels (Dufa, Dulux, Tikkurila) have the same properties.

You should prepare a chipboard floor for painting especially carefully, since any defect will appear almost instantly and cannot be corrected.

The work includes the following stages:

1. Checking the floor for creaks, defects, scratches, cracks. Creaking is eliminated with additional fasteners, chips and pits are puttied, and the gaps between the sheets are sealed.
2. Inspection of fasteners: all hardware is examined for strength, protruding ones must be attached with a hammer, loose ones must be sealed with glue or sealant.
3. Degreasing and sanding chipboard: grease stains and dirt are removed with a solvent, then the board is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper, especially at the joints. Finally, wipe thoroughly with a damp cloth.
4. Priming: the impregnating primer is applied in 2 layers, then the floor is checked again for defects.

The quality of restoration work depends not only on the qualifications (or lack thereof) of the master, but also on the quality of the materials used. Only high-quality, proven brands guarantee a long service life of the coating and its resistance to any mechanical load.

Paint or varnish is applied in 2-3 layers with a brush, roller or spray gun in accordance with the instructions. Selecting or applying additional elements is done with a separate small brush. Between layers, roughness can be removed with sanding paper.

To renew old cabinet furniture, you can paint chipboard at home with your own hands. Most often, interior items are made from this material; it is also widely used in construction and floor repair work. Chipboard has been used in Russia for several decades.

Painting chipboard will improve the appearance of the most worn-out item

Chipboard is wood chips pressed and glued together using formaldehyde. But the chips are subject to various negative influences, so they easily come apart. To avoid this, they are covered with various materials: polypropylene film, paints, varnishes and others. In addition to its protective function, painting laminated chipboard improves the appearance, since this method allows you to create the necessary texture of any color on the surface.

To improve the aesthetic properties of chipboard furniture or flooring and to give an individual and original design, it is necessary to cover the slab with a new layer of paint. It should be noted that in addition to improving aesthetics, painting improves moisture-proof properties and protects the material from the negative effects of ultraviolet rays. If you carry out proper restoration work with your own hands, the furniture will have a longer service life. Formaldehyde evaporates over time, which negatively affects human health, so covering the slab prevents this process.

Laminated chipboard can be coated with varnish, film, paint, or veneer. The hardest thing. It is necessary to use several layers of primer, however, even in this case there is no guarantee that the coating will be of high quality.

Choosing paint for repainting furniture

The material of the furniture affects the choice of paint.

Acrylic paint is popular for painting wooden furniture. Among its advantages:

• increased stability due to good absorption;
• quick-drying;
• economical, as it is diluted with water;
• the smell is not aggressive;
• can be used without priming;
• antiseptic properties,
• non-flammability.

Minus: only white color, which can be tinted with color.

The spray in a can speeds up the painting process, applies evenly, and dries quickly.

For a glossy surface on wood, choose enamel varnish paint.

To prevent the surface from shining, use an oil matte finish.

To preserve the natural structure of the wood, a colorless product is purchased, which is available in shades.

The surface painted with latex composition can be washed. The paint is not afraid of water and sunlight, but is expensive.

Expensive paints also include silicone paints with the addition of acrylic. The paint penetrates the wooden surface and is not afraid of moisture.

MDF furniture

MDF is also a chipboard material, but it is produced using improved technology. The slab includes small compressed fractions of sawdust. Because of this bonding, MDF becomes a homogeneous, high-strength and safe for human health board. But it costs more than chipboard.

The main difference between MDF and chipboard is its coating. It is pressed into the structure of the slab, which makes it stronger and more resistant to water. These slabs can also be found in a variety of patterns and textures.

Due to its environmental friendliness, furniture for children's rooms is often made from MDF.

This is a fairly dense material, which is why it is indispensable in the manufacture of furniture with an unusual design: elegant lines and roundness.

The disadvantages, in addition to the high price, include low resistance to damage and easy flammability.

Paint selection

Now directly about what you can paint with. There are a lot of paint options on the market

Here the main attention is paid to the material from which the furniture is made. In addition to paints, varnish is actively used

It creates an attractive appearance and has excellent protective properties.

Varnish is the basis of the composition. An appropriate coloring pigment is added to it. That is, start by choosing a varnish base, which can be:

• alcoholic;
• epoxy;
• oil;
• polyurethane;
• alkyd;
• nitrocellulose.

If you want to use paint, then listen to a few tips.

• Acrylic compounds are considered the traditional choice for furniture. They are durable, quick-drying, safe and do not have a strong unpleasant odor. At the same time, they are diluted with water;
• Working with a spray can is much easier in terms of doing the job. They also use acrylic compounds. Lay flat on the surface, no need to use rollers or brushes. But the price is higher and the consumption is more impressive;
• Enamel ones are mainly used for treating wooden surfaces. Their advantage is that they create a glossy and shiny structure;
• If you need a matte effect, use oil-based formulations;
• The laminated surface is painted using polyurethane and alkyd compounds;
• Epoxy enamel is generally not bad, but it takes a very long time to dry, plus an unpleasant characteristic odor remains in the room for a long time;
• In theory, laminated chipboard and MDF can be coated with acrylic latex paint, but then you will have to use a special primer and apply it in 2 layers.

Conventional white base paints, which contain a large number of pigments, are very popular. This allows you to create your own shades and experiment without spending a lot of effort, time and money.

Removing old paint

We often come across furniture based on chipboard. Even if it is quite worn out, it can be restored and fit into the interior favorably.

Any repainting procedure begins with preliminary preparation. And sometimes you have to first get rid of the old paint before applying primer, putty and new paint.

There are 2 ways to clean surfaces.

• Chemical method. Here you will need to purchase special chemicals that are designed to remove old coatings. Here, start from the material that previously covered the furniture. The means are distinguished by adaptation to a specific material. Be sure to use gloves when working;
• Thermal method. The essence is the effect of heat. A hair dryer would be an ideal option. First, hot air is supplied to the surface. This allows you to soften the paint or varnish, which is then simply removed with a scraper.

Now you can safely putty, sand and prime before applying the finishing coat of your chosen paint or varnish.

Tips from experts on applying paint to chipboard

• While the primer layer dries, the tone of the CM is selected. If a piece of furniture is painted in one tone, then there will not be any special difficulties. If a combination of colors is chosen, then the main tone is selected first. Then they line up comparable to each other. They should set off the main color.
• The mixture is stirred until homogeneous and should not have any grains.
• Depending on the condition of the furniture, the number of layers of painting is determined.
• To achieve a smooth surface, the CM is applied with a short-nap roller. Long pile leaves a textured pattern.
• The paint is applied in 2 layers so that the structure of the chipboard is not visible.
• The first layer of dye is applied a shade lighter. Next, the selected color is covered.
• The movement of the hand with the brush is done in one direction. The coloring material will lie evenly.
• If the furniture was dark in color, then the paintwork is applied in at least 2 layers. A thick primer is first applied. This is done so that the old dark paint does not show through the new one.
• The boundaries of different colors are determined by masking tape. Then they won't mix.
• It takes at least 3 days for the paintwork on the chipboard surface to dry.

Unpainted chipboard emits harmful substances, so it cannot be used in everyday life in this form.

Interesting video on the topic:

Technology of applying paint and varnish to furniture

So, you can start painting the furniture. First, you should check the expiration date of the paintwork material. If the enamel (varnish) has thickened or dried out, you need to dilute it with water or a solvent according to the instructions and stir thoroughly.

Apply the first (background) layer of enamel with a roller or brush and leave to dry for 24 hours. Then either paint the surface again, or carefully and tightly stick masking tape in accordance with the design idea or a stencil with a pattern and cover with a second layer. The drying time depends on the manufacturer, but, as a rule, is at least a day.

Scotch tape allows you to bring some design ideas to life

If the coverage of the selected brand is weak, and the original color shows through the paint, then you can and should apply the coating one more time. Mirror gloss is achieved with an additional layer of acrylic or alkyd universal varnish.

Varnishing and tinting impregnation is carried out according to the same scheme. The difference is that this process requires perfect cleanliness of both the surface and the room; any speck of dust can nullify all efforts.

How to choose paint

Choosing paint is the main task for anyone who is looking for a way to repaint chipboard furniture themselves. Of course, it is better to stick to special paints that are marked “for furniture,” but alkyd or polyurethane paint is also suitable for these purposes. Formulations with a strong odor and those that take a long time to dry should be avoided.

To paint chipboard furniture, you can also choose interior acrylic paint, but in this case the primer should be applied at least twice.

There are several components in acrylic paint and varnish compositions:

• Water as a solvent. By evaporating, it ensures rapid drying of the material.
• Coloring pigments give the composition the desired color.
• Acrylic resin acts as a fixative - it forms a strong and elastic film on the painted surface, resistant to temperature and mechanical influences.

For furniture located in rooms with high humidity, it is advisable to use interior acrylic paint containing latex or silicone. These components provide the coating with resistance to water and detergents.

The stores offer a huge palette of paint shades, but when the finished product is not suitable for the implementation of the plan, you can buy white water-based paint and tint it in any color.

Surface preparation

For the production of furniture, they used and still use different coatings on chipboard, which have to be removed at home using largely different methods.

In any case, it is better to disassemble cabinets, tables, bedside tables and take them outside or other open, well-ventilated space. If necessary, you can work without disassembling, then you should free up space around it, lay newspaper or thick oilcloth underneath so as not to stain the floors in the room.

Painted furniture

If varnish or paint has been applied to the slabs, they can be treated with a hairdryer. After heating and softening, the top layer can be easily cleaned off with a spatula. Thick coatings of old paint can form swollen bubbles when exposed to hot air, which are much easier to clean off than thin layers.

If you need to clean an ancient countertop, a regular heated iron will do. By ironing the surface through the foil, the coating can quickly be removed with a spatula or knife. For vertical or shaped surfaces, for example on a rustic chest of drawers, in the absence of a hairdryer, a torch or blowtorch with any heating source will help remove the old paint

Work must be carried out very carefully, keeping in mind safety precautions

There is an alternative method for removing varnishes and paints, the essence of which is to treat the layer with solvents. The organic liquid is generously distributed over the surface with a brush, wait a while, then the softened layer is removed with a spatula

The solvent method is convenient, but requires caution due to the high volatility and flammability of the liquid

Furniture coated with polymers, veneer or laminated paper

If there is a laminated, veneered or laminated layer on the surface, you will have to work hard. It is very difficult to remove them just like paint, because there is a high probability of damage to the particle base of the chipboard material. Therefore, the furniture is treated with sanding cloths until the roughness of the coating is formed, which allows the new layer of paint to be securely fixed.

Nowadays, chipboard home furniture very often has a laminated outer layer. It should be prepared with great care, especially if you plan to subsequently paint the chipboard in an elegant white color.

Sanding is first carried out using sanding plates with large grains, then the dust is carefully swept away with a brush.

Please note that you should not wipe dusty areas with a cloth, because dirt particles will penetrate into the pores and interfere with the subsequent fixation of the color pigment

At the next stage, sanding is carried out with fine-grained sanding sheets, especially focusing on edges, corners, and other areas where pre-treatment was previously difficult to do. After this, sweep out all the dust particles again.

Note! Before you start painting, it is recommended to vacuum the room to prevent dust particles in the air from sticking to the freshly painted furniture.

Otherwise, instead of the long-awaited glossy cabinet or table, you may end up with a non-uniform matte finish.

After sanding, you need to slowly run your hand over the surface of the furniture, feeling each area for any unevenness or damage. If there are any, the furniture must be puttied with special compounds or a mixture of fine wood shavings and PVA.

After waiting several hours, up to a day, you can begin priming, which is absolutely necessary to improve the fixation of coloring pigments in the future. The primer mixture will also need a day to dry completely, provided that the work is carried out in a warm room.

If the temperature is close to the minimum allowed 5℃, drying may take longer.

Repairing furniture yourself

No matter how carefully people treat everything that surrounds them in their home, in any case, sooner or later the furniture needs to be repaired. This helps restore damaged elements and worn upholstery to their former beauty. It is possible to carry out the work yourself; you just need to try a little for a beautiful and high-quality result.

Major repairs and furniture production are complex processes that require the involvement of professionals, but minor defects can be tried to be corrected at home.

Preparing for coloring

Before you start painting, remove the door from its hinges. In the event that you only need to slightly update the paint layer, this is not necessary. Painting doors in an apartment with your own hands begins with preparing the workplace. The door removed from its hinges is laid horizontally on suitable supports at a height of at least 50 cm from the floor. Ordinary stools are successfully used as supports, on which boards the width of the door leaf are placed. The supports must be covered with a non-slip, lint-free, dense fabric. The door is processed first on one side, then turned over to the other. The first stage of work is removing the layer of old paint. For convenience, all fittings (handles, hinges, etc.) are first removed, and a small amount of cotton wool or rags is placed in the holes. To remove a layer of old paint, use a solvent, a stiff wire brush or sandpaper.

Preparation of furniture surfaces made of laminated chipboard and chipboard

The façade preparation process includes the following steps:

1. Dismantling
   - unscrew all fittings, pull out or remove all drawers, extensions and other elements;
2. Removing the old layer
   (laminated or paint): with sandpaper (sand first with rough, sweeping, wide movements, then level with fine-grained sandpaper), abrasive remover according to the instructions (Pufas, Dufa) or carefully heat with a hair dryer and remove with a spatula or scraper;
3. Degreasing and cleaning
   . You can first brush off the dust with a wide flat brush, then use a rag moistened with water or solvent to clean the surface of the facade from debris and remnants of the old coating;
4. Leveling
   : fill all cracks and holes with acrylic putty. It is advisable to apply 1 coat of primer before starting to make unevenness appear better. Then, for perfect smoothness, go over again with sanding paper and wipe with a wet cloth;
5. Priming
   : Apply 1-2 coats of primer and let dry.

At the end, be sure to sweep out the garbage from the room where the renovation is being carried out, wipe all surfaces (tables, chairs, floors, window sills, etc.) so that dust and remnants of removed coatings do not accidentally stain the prepared facade.

Furniture painting and varnishing technology

Before processing the parts, you need to disassemble the structure and unscrew all the fittings. After this, remove the remnants of the original coating using a solvent and a spatula. The old layer may not come off easily. In this case, saturate the board with solvent and let it swell a little. Then use a spatula to remove any loose debris.

You can remove the old paint with a spatula, having treated the surface with a remover in advance.

Remove grease and dirt using detergent. Dry the stove. Then sand it with sandpaper to create a rough surface. Fill cracks and cavities with putty. Let it dry. Look to see if there are any other uneven spots. Prepare the primer and apply it to the slab. It plays a big role in painting.

When purchasing a primer, try to choose a shade that is as close as possible to the color you want your furniture to be.

Primer is the main character in updating the facade of furniture. You don’t need much of it to work, but it brings great benefits, leveling the surface and saving the consumption of paint and varnish. Makes the coating much stronger. It is better to use it in two layers so that the base is more reliable.

After priming, leave the workpiece to dry or speed up the process with a hair dryer.

Check the condition of paints and varnishes: dilute excessively thick compositions with solvent. Apply paint evenly to the surface and smooth with a roller. Touch up the raised joints with a brush. Using an aerosol or spray bottle makes the task easier, but it leaves a lot of splashes on other surfaces. In this case, you need to protect the work site with impenetrable barriers. To do this, you can use large cardboard or stretch plastic film.

To dry the first layer, leave the slab for a day, sometimes it takes longer.

Then apply a second coat and let dry as well. Repeat the same with the varnish. If a design or ornament is intended to be applied, it must be done before varnishing. To apply the print, prepare a stencil. Carefully secure it while working using construction tape.

You can cut the stencil from an old file folder.

After the chipboard has completely dried, begin assembling the structure. Don't forget about the accessories. After completing the work, choose a place where you will place your updated object so that it looks most advantageous.

The restoration will be successful if you don’t rush, trying to get everything done by a certain deadline.

The low cost of chipboard, high performance characteristics, and versatility of use have made them a very popular material. The most common areas of application are furniture production and construction. The main enemy of these slabs is water - the chips increase in volume, the slab swells, warps and crumbles.

Even at the very beginning of production, sawdust and shavings, after drying, are impregnated with formaldehyde resins. After pressing, the surface of the boards is laminated, sometimes even varnished.

But protecting the surface does not prevent the penetration of moisture from the ends through which it enters. Accumulating inside, water gradually begins to penetrate the wood fibers, which leads to the destruction of the slab. Consequently, the ends must first be saved from liquid penetration during operation. If they are tightly sealed, the service life of the slabs will be much longer.

Why are the ends the starting point for destruction? Yes, because the production of slabs of the required standard sizes, as well as the preparation of pieces of material of different sizes, requires cutting. In this case, the integrity of the wood fibers is compromised.

Thus, chipboard protection from moisture is carried out in three directions:

• impregnation of wood fibers with resins;
• special surface treatment;
• end sealing.

Surface treatment of plates

The front and back surfaces of the slab, as the largest contact areas, without any protection, can pass through and absorb, accordingly, the largest amount of liquid. It would be a good idea to cover these surfaces with something moisture-proof. Some of the methods of such coating are possible only in factory conditions, some are also possible at home.

One of the main methods of protection is lamination. In this case, a melamine film is laid on sanded chipboard at high pressure and high temperature. The essence of this process is not pressing, but the fact that under these conditions the film polymerizes the surface of the slab, becoming one with it.

There is another method that is performed in the factory - laminating. Pressure and heat are also used here, but more gentle. The already hardened film is pressed against the glue-coated slab. If lamination is a chemical process, then laminating is a mechanical process.

At home, non-laminated chipboard is often coated with several layers of paint for protection. Before painting, pre-treat the surface:

• dust is carefully swept away and washed off the surface;
• for the first time, the plate is coated with hot drying oil;
• then this is done with cold drying oil until an outer crust forms;
• the top is painted. With any painting method, you must remember that each subsequent layer of paint is applied to the already dried previous one.

There are several other ways to protect yourself from getting wet. For example, a surface that will not be subject to mechanical stress can be protected as follows: rub it with stearin, then heat it with a hairdryer. Let cool and repeat this a couple more times. Or: one part of bitumen varnish is mixed with five parts of drying oil. Coating is carried out twice.

Surface paints

The main point in painting chipboard is the choice of paint itself.
It is recommended to paint the surface of the board using a special spray can or spray gun. This will allow the paint to be evenly distributed without the slightest smudges. But before this you should practice a little if such work has never been carried out before. You also need to choose which paint is best to refresh the surface of the slab.

You can use different types of paints: acrylic, oil, alkyd and others. It should be noted that the final result will depend on the choice of paint. Painting is carried out with a roller or brush. After painting, a layer of varnish is applied to the surface to increase the product’s resistance to mechanical damage, since the varnished surface is more difficult to damage.