How and with what to wash a polycarbonate greenhouse so that it does not become dull

Have you noticed that the walls of the greenhouse are covered with a thin layer of dirt and realized that it is time to act? Right. Dirt prevents precious sunlight from reaching the plants. To maximize the productivity and health of your greenhouse, it is important to not overlook cleaning it. But polycarbonate requires special care. After some research, here's what we learned about keeping a polycarbonate greenhouse clean.

To begin with, it is useful to find out how polycarbonate greenhouses differ from glass ones and what are the nuances of care.

  • How does a polycarbonate greenhouse differ from a glass greenhouse?
  • Why you need to clean your greenhouse regularly
  • How often should you wash the greenhouse?
  • What to use to clean the greenhouse
  • How to wash a greenhouse correctly
  • When is it better to wash the greenhouse: in autumn or spring?
  • What to do if polycarbonate becomes dull

How to care for a greenhouse in autumn

In the summer, when the crops ripen, the greenhouse does not require special care.
Occasionally you can water the walls with a hose, washing off the dust. It is also recommended to ventilate it. The main maintenance work on the structure occurs in the fall. In the fall, summer residents harvest from their gardens, including greenhouses. For the winter, the greenhouse must be removed and completely closed until the next planting season.

Proper care of a greenhouse in the fall includes:

Cleaning up plants after harvest. All tops, leaves, and weeds should be removed from the ground. Remove all fertilizers and soil cultivation tools. Soil treatment. The soil in the greenhouse is treated with special bactericidal preparations or watered with boiling water. It is recommended to remove a layer of 5-7 cm of old soil, replacing it with new one. Fertilizing the soil. The quality of the soil under a greenhouse can be improved if you sow it with green manure in the winter - peas, rapeseed, mustard. You can add humus and various mineral fertilizers to the soil. Disinfection. The carbonate coating of the greenhouse should be washed with dishwashing detergent. This prevents the proliferation of harmful fungal microorganisms and extends the life of the structure.

It is very important to clean all joints and crevices; for this you can use a soft cloth and a spray bottle. As a disinfectant, you should choose only those that are approved for polycarbonate coatings. Conservation

After all cleaning work, you need to ventilate and dry the room, then check all latches and locks.

Checkers are used as disinfection, which release sulfur gas when burned. To get rid of the smell, the greenhouse must be left open for several days.

Among the means of disinfection, one can highlight a folk method, which consists of using a decoction of pine branches. Pour boiling water over ½ bucket of needles, let it steep for 30-40 minutes, after which it can be used as a disinfectant. This disinfection method can be used in spring and summer to treat the walls and roof of a greenhouse.

Growing plants in winter

You can grow plants in a greenhouse all year round if it is heated. This is important for plant growth not only in winter. Heating in the spring allows you to enjoy the harvest faster, in the fall it extends the growing season, and heating a polycarbonate greenhouse ensures the safety of winter perennials.

Insulating a greenhouse saves energy; you can lay out transparent film on the walls. In case of very low temperatures, you can additionally cover the walls with straw mats.

In an unheated greenhouse, the temperature reaches below 0 ° C, but we can freely control the moisture in the soil. This approach is good because the structure ultimately has to be cleaned less intensively and less often.

Accordingly, you don’t have to rush to decide how to wash the inside of a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall in order to quickly put it in order before frost.

A polycarbonate-based greenhouse turns into an optimal place for wintering plants that need to stay dry during the hibernation period, and excess moisture can cause them to rot.

Why carry out processing?

Recently purchased greenhouses, as a rule, do not need treatment, but models that have served for several years do. The reason for this is that optimal conditions for microbes are always created in the greenhouse: high humidity and temperature. This environment promotes the growth of fungus and bacteria. Pathogenic organisms accumulate in the soil and cracks in the structure; during the cold season they overwinter comfortably, and in the spring they awaken to begin to reproduce again.

In addition to pathogenic microflora, one should also take into account weather conditions, which are not always stable. During the winter there will definitely be strong winds, snowfalls, and temperature changes. All this will affect the greenhouse: gaps and holes may appear in the covering material, perhaps the supporting structure will become thinner somewhere, or the foundation will weaken.

Repair and processing of the greenhouse frame

During operation, the frame suffers almost more than the covering material. The metal profile collapses and rusts, the wood rots and turns into dust under the influence of high temperature and humidity. In autumn it is worth paying special attention to this. The metal profile needs to be cleaned of rust and painted. Wooden elements that have become unusable must be replaced.

The places of contact between frame elements and polycarbonate sheets are the most contaminated, since many different harmful microflora are packed into such cracks. Therefore, such places need to be treated especially carefully, sparing no disinfectant solution.

How to treat a greenhouse against late blight and whitefly

Late blight is a common disease that can negate all your worries about the harvest. The causative agent of the disease tolerates low temperatures well, so special control measures cannot be avoided.

  1. Remove and burn all plant debris and unusable equipment.
  2. Dig up the ridges.
  3. Water the beds with a solution of oxychome or Bordeaux mixture.
  4. You can use Ridomil Gold, a reliable chemical against late blight and fungal diseases.
  5. In the worst case, you will have to replace the top layer of soil. If this is not possible, carry out liming or chlorination.
  6. Sulfur fumigation is effective against late blight.

Whiteflies should be combated throughout the summer season. In the fall, Biotlin, Fufanon, Fitoverm help well. If the preliminary stages of preparation for winter are carried out correctly (the ground and greenhouse buildings are disinfected with a sulfur bomb, treated with chlorine-containing preparations), then there will be no need to take special measures against whiteflies.

How often should you wash the greenhouse?

Clean your greenhouse windows regularly to keep them from becoming dirty and blocking the light your plants need. Pay attention to any buildup or dirt on your windows and remove them as the season progresses.

Sweep the floor regularly and remove plant debris such as leaves and shoots after weeding.

Once a year, you should remove everything from the greenhouse and clean everything. Yes, this can be a difficult process if you have a large greenhouse, but it is worth it to ensure your plants thrive.

Take the time to thoroughly sanitize the greenhouse structure. As a rule, this is done in the fall, at the end of the season.

This will not only extend the life of your greenhouse and allow you to catch any problems before they become problems, but it will also provide your plants with a safe and healthy environment in which to grow.

Before cleaning the greenhouse, remove all plant debris. Finally, disinfect surfaces.

What and how to treat the land from diseases and pests

I will tell you about the correct use of popular means for treating greenhouse soil, which will help achieve their maximum effectiveness.

Fitosporin

One of the most recognized and popular biological products among gardeners is Fitosporin. I appreciate it for its low cost and high efficiency. The drug has a complex effect on organic soil inclusions: organic matter decomposes, having a negative effect on harmful microorganisms living in the soil. The advantage of “Fitosporin” is that it does not destroy beneficial microflora and saturates the substrate with microelements necessary for plant development.

As for disinfection, I dilute Fitosporin-M at the rate of 100 g per 10 liters. I treat the soil twice, waiting an interval of 2 weeks. Be sure to use settled water, or better yet, rain, melt or well water: chlorinated water reduces the effectiveness of the drug.

processing the garden using Fitosporin-M

Potassium permangantsovka

The use of potassium permanganate solution for soil disinfection is typical for both gardening and indoor floriculture. It’s easy to work with the product - dilute a 1% solution. The result will be a pale pink liquid. Sprinkle it evenly over the soil. Use the same solution to disinfect glass, film and polycarbonate parts of the greenhouse.

potassium permanganate

Copper sulfate

I value this traditional garden remedy for its effectiveness in controlling cladosporiosis, late blight and powdery mildew. It is difficult to overestimate its properties:

  • good antiseptic;
  • suppression of the development of insect pests;
  • remedy for mold, rot, fungus;
  • replenishment of the microelement copper in the soil.

To achieve greater efficiency, I recommend using only fresh vitriol solution. Be sure to mix it in a metal container, otherwise the iron and copper sulfate will react with each other.

Using this substance is very simple:

  1. For 10 liters of water - 100 g of copper sulfate + a little freshly slaked lime. Treat the greenhouse soil - this method is used no more often than once every 5 years.
  2. Add a little crushed household soap shavings to the prepared solution - the resulting product is used to treat the covering material and greenhouse structures. I spray the liquid from a spray bottle and then clean the surface with a brush.

Remember that copper sulfate is a moderately toxic drug, which is why you need to wear thick gloves and a respirator when working with it.

Disinfection

Disinfection of greenhouses involves the implementation of a whole range of actions. It involves the fight against pathogenic and pathogenic microorganisms inside the greenhouse. This must be done so that with the arrival of spring the plants develop without problems and diseases, which can negatively affect the amount of harvest.

Disinfection can be carried out in several ways. Let's consider each of them separately.

Fumigation

I have already told you that it is important to wash the greenhouse. However, fumigation is also a mandatory step when preparing a greenhouse for wintering. For this I use sulfur bombs. They can be purchased at any store that sells everything for the garden.

The greenhouse must be tightly closed before the procedure. Next, I followed the instructions that came with the sulfur bombs. I think there will be no problems with this.

Spraying

Spraying is perhaps one of the most common methods of disinfecting greenhouses. Most gardeners use Bordeaux mixture for these purposes or products that are used specifically to kill fungi and harmful insects. I wash with the first option. When the spray solution was prepared according to the instructions, I poured it into a regular spray bottle and sprayed all surfaces in the greenhouse.

Treatment with chemicals

You can also use some chemicals to treat your greenhouse in the fall. The salesperson in the store told me that it is best to take for these purposes:

  • copper sulfate;
  • bleach;
  • potassium permanganate solution.

I used the last option. A solution of potassium permanganate is applied to the soil.

Where disinfection is necessary

Disinfection must be carried out in the following cases:

  • in clinics, children's hospitals and similar institutions. In such cases, treatment is carried out after each dose;
  • in kindergartens and other preschool institutions;
  • in public places and crowded places, including train stations and airports, train carriages, airplanes, cinemas, dormitories and similar places;
  • at food industry enterprises, as well as in places of food trade and general catering;
  • at waterworks;
  • in places where services are provided to the population, including beauty salons, bathhouses, gyms and swimming pools;
  • in places where raw materials of animal origin are stored and processed.

Stage 5. Strengthening the frame

Even the best polycarbonate greenhouses can collapse under the weight of snow. In winter, the load on structures can suddenly exceed the planned value. To avoid these troubles, you should install additional supports for the frame.

Sometimes greenhouse manufacturers offer to purchase additional arcs, but you can do it much simpler - make your own wooden supports in the shape of the letter “T”. Such structures support the upper part of the greenhouses. A fortified structure can be left for the winter without fear that its roof will collapse.


Preparing the greenhouse for winter by strengthening the frame with supports

About 4 supports are used per room (if the length of the greenhouse does not exceed 6 meters). However, if the greenhouse is located in an area where too much snow accumulates, their number should be doubled.

Strengthening the greenhouse frame before winter

To prevent the supports from getting stuck in the ground, they need to be placed on a hard surface.

Another option for reinforcing supports for a polycarbonate greenhouse

To reduce the likelihood of snow accumulating on the roof and walls of the greenhouse, in late autumn it is worth opening the doors and windows of the room. This can achieve two goals at once. Firstly, the frost will destroy the remaining pests from disinfection. Secondly, the same temperature inside and outside the room makes it possible to avoid the formation of ice. In this case, layers of snow will not be able to linger on the surfaces, sliding off them.

Important! Even the most expensive and high-quality greenhouses with reinforced structures may not withstand heavy snowfalls. For this reason, surfaces should be regularly cleared of snow.

Cleaning the greenhouse roof from snow

How to prepare for room disinfection

In preparation for disinfection, it is necessary to package all food in bags and put it in the refrigerator, and put dishes and pet bowls in cabinets. Bed linen must be removed from the bed, as well as bedspreads from sofas, and the furniture itself must be moved away from the walls. Place personal hygiene items and towels in closets. Before disinfection, it is also worth carrying out routine cleaning - washing the floors and wiping off dust can increase the effectiveness of the treatment. Additional recommendations.

Work surfaces, including kitchen countertops, must be wrapped in cling film, otherwise they must be washed after completing the disinfection procedure. Oil paintings, figurines and souvenirs must be placed in cabinets.

It is important to remove pets, including aquarium fish, from the apartment during treatment. It is also necessary to minimize any contact of personal belongings with processing equipment.

It is also necessary to minimize any contact of personal belongings with processing equipment.

Autumn treatment of greenhouses against pests

Treating a greenhouse against pests in the fall is an extremely important stage in preparing the structure for wintering and the new summer cottage season in the fall. If you do not take pest control measures for the winter, pests can successfully overwinter indoors and encroach on vegetable seedlings in the spring.

To achieve maximum effectiveness, it is necessary to use the most suitable insecticide preparations for a particular pest:

  • Nematode - for example, the drugs Carbation, Chloropicrin, Nemagon are suitable. Before using the insecticide, you should soak the soil with boiling water for an hour.
  • Aphids - Kinmiks, Iskra, Karate, Bitoxibacillin, Fitoverm, sulfur bomb.
  • Whitefly - Fitoverm, Confidor, Aktellik, Aktara.
  • Putin tick - Fitoverm, Aktofit, Vertimek, sulfur bomb.
  • cricket, wireworm, cockchafer larvae - Medvetoks, Zemlin, Rubit Rofatoks, sulfur checker. In this case, it is recommended to first spill the soil with boiling water, and then use the drug.

In this case, you need to spray not only the soil, but also the structure itself.

Soil preparation

The greenhouse creates ideal conditions not only for the growth of plants (including weeds), but also for various pests that can ruin the standing crop if they are not dealt with. Treatment of the greenhouse in the fall against pests and diseases should be comprehensive. The use of chemicals - various insecticides during the growing season is not a very good idea. Chemicals that accumulate in plants eventually enter our bodies.

Therefore, special attention should be paid to disinfection and other soil treatment in the greenhouse in the fall.

Soil replacement

This is a rather labor-intensive and expensive process, but after it the number of pests is reduced by several orders of magnitude. It is recommended to carry out such a procedure as preparing the soil in a greenhouse in the fall, with a complete replacement of the fertile layer, at least once every three years. The soil is removed to a depth of 7-10 cm. Then peat, humus (manure), sand and ash are added in its place, the proportions vary depending on the presence of a particular ingredient, but rarely exceed 1 bucket per 1 m2 of soil. Tilling the soil in a greenhouse in the fall may include fluffing, for heavy and oily soils, using sawdust. However, with this method you need to be careful and, if possible, not use sawdust from coniferous wood (spruce, pine, larch) and wood species with a large amount of tannins (oak, walnut).

The resulting mixture is dug up. Distribute evenly over planting areas and cover with a thick layer of straw or fallen leaves on top. After snow falls in winter, you need to throw some of it into the greenhouse yourself with a shovel (a layer of 15-20 cm) to prevent deep freezing of the soil and provide the ground with the necessary moisture in the spring. Some gardeners additionally water the enriched soil mixture with a weak solution of potassium permanganate before adding fertilizers.

A thick layer of fallen leaves will help keep you warm

Soil infected with pests and diseases does not need to be thrown away, but rather treated. How to treat the soil in a greenhouse in the fall in order to effectively disinfect it without resorting to strong chemicals. To do this, a pile is formed with an area of ​​1-2 m2 and a layer thickness of 20 cm. When constructing it, each layer is generously sprinkled with lime at the rate of 250 g per 1 m2. It remains in this state for the entire next year, having frozen out over the winter, the pile will need to be dug up again next fall and used after the second winter.

Soil fertilization

How to fertilize the soil in a greenhouse in the fall depends not only on the type of soil, but also what crops are planned to be planted in the spring. To achieve the highest yield, not only special means are used, but also special methods for processing perennial plants:

  1. Strawberry. After the last harvest, at the end of August, all the greens are mowed down so that the top buds remain intact. The bed is watered abundantly and the soil is loosened. Potash and superphosphate fertilizers are applied in the proportions recommended by the manufacturer. All this is sprinkled with a small layer of fertile soil so that the new shoots do not dry out. Before the onset of cold weather, no later than October, the strawberry roots are earthed up and covered with peat. In winter, be sure to pretend to be a thick layer of snow to prevent freezing.
  2. Tomatoes. One of the most common greenhouse crops. They are very demanding on the quality of the soil and the composition of fertilizers. For tomatoes, soil preparation in a greenhouse in the fall consists of applying organic, chemical or combined fertilizers, which must necessarily contain:
  • Manganese – promotes faster ripening of fruits;
  • Copper, boron – stimulate flowering and abundant fruiting;
  • Potassium, magnesium, phosphorus, nitrogen - contribute to the rapid growth of the plant.
  1. Cucumbers. The most common “resident” of greenhouses. There are many varieties designed for growing in greenhouses. However, processing a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall to plant cucumbers in it has its own specifics. First of all, you need to check the acidity of the soil. If the acidity is more than 6.5-7 pH in the fall, it is necessary to lim the soil. Also in the fall, the soil is fertilized with the following specialized mixture:
  • Potassium salt – 10-25 g;
  • Ammonium sulfate – 10-25g;
  • Ammonium nitrate up to 25 g.

Important! There is a very simple way to test soil acidity at home. You need to pour a handful of dry soil with simple 9% table vinegar

If a reaction begins with the release of gas, then there is enough lime in the soil and it is neutral.

Determination of soil acidity using 9% vinegar, reaction to neutral soil

Treatment of the greenhouse structure: washing and disinfection

Throughout the season, the greenhouse becomes dirty both outside and inside. Dirt, cobwebs, and moss stick to its walls, leaves fall on the roof, dust accumulates, and stains from precipitation accumulate. The structure may be contaminated with pathogens of fungal diseases, infections, and pathogens. For this reason, it is very important to wash and disinfect the structure in the fall to prepare it for the next season and winter.

Important! In the fall, any damage to the metal frame must be treated: brushed, primed with an anti-corrosion agent and painted. If this is not done, the structure will continue to corrode and collapse.

Greenhouse flushing

The primary task in the fall is to wash the greenhouse structure . It is necessary to prepare tools: rags, a broom, a window mop, a hose, detergents (more on them a little later).

First, you can walk with a broom and brush away obvious dirt and cobwebs.

The outside of the greenhouse can be washed with plain water , and it is optimal to do this with water pressure from a hose or simply rinse with a mop. The roof and outer walls need to be cleaned thoroughly, washing away all dirt, dust and leaves.

Note! Any twines or ropes to which you tied the plants must be removed from the room (preferably burned). However, if you feel sorry for getting rid of them, you can soak them in a dark solution of potassium permanganate for 40-60 minutes.

What is the best way to wash the inside of a greenhouse? There are several options and recipes for detergents:

  • Laundry soap (one bar) per bucket of water.
  • Baking soda (2 tablespoons) in a bucket of water.
  • Mustard powder (2 tbsp) in a bucket of water.
  • Tar or laundry soap (100 grams), 70% acetic acid (1 teaspoon), a bucket of water.
  • If there are mosses and lichens on the structure, then a five percent solution of copper sulfate can be used for these areas.

It is necessary to clean the walls and roof of the greenhouse from the inside according to the following scheme:

  • It is necessary to apply a cleaning solution to the surfaces. It is best to use sponges for walls and a mop for ceilings.
  • Leave the solution for 5-10 minutes (in this case, you need to leave the structure and wait outside).
  • Then you need to thoroughly rinse the surface with plain water.

Note! According to the same scheme, you need to process the racks, the equipment that is used in it, the supports (regardless of what material they are made of - wood, metal).

Disinfection (disinfection) of the greenhouse

It is necessary to disinfect a greenhouse in the fall with potent drugs only if it has been damaged by diseases and pests.

If your vegetable crops grew safely and no signs of diseases or pests were identified, then you can simply limit yourself to simple surface cleaning, which was described above.

So, the structure can be processed using a sulfur bomb or using chemicals.

Fumigation with a sulfur bomb

Fumigation with a sulfur bomb is a very effective way to disinfect the internal surface of a greenhouse and soil. Using this disinfection method, pathogens of fungal and bacterial infections, mold, and pests can be eliminated. Fumigation should be carried out at an air temperature of at least +10 degrees.

Important! Before using the sulfur bomb, you must carefully study the instructions and follow all the rules described in it!

Fumigation with a sulfur bomb to disinfect a greenhouse is carried out according to the following rules:

  • Shortly before the event, you need to wash the inside of the structure. Then dig up the soil with the bayonet of a shovel so that the smoke penetrates deeply into the soil and more thoroughly eliminates pathogens and pests in it.
  • The sulfur block must be placed on any hard surface (brick, tile). Then you need to set the checker on fire using paper.

Important! The smoke (sulfur dioxide) released when burning a bomb is very dangerous for humans ! Immediately after setting the checker on fire, you need to leave the greenhouse and enter it no earlier than 3-4 days later!

  • 4-5 days after using the smoke bomb, you need to thoroughly ventilate the greenhouse, and then wash the surfaces of the structure from the inside again and remove the soot.
  • After fumigation, it is imperative to restore soil fertility, because beneficial bacteria and fungi die along with pathogenic microorganisms. For these purposes, you can use, for example, the drug “Fitosporin-M”, “Baikal EM1”, “Azotofit”.

In what cases is it not recommended to use a sulfur bomb?

  • In greenhouses with a frame made of unpainted (non-galvanized) metal profiles. A chemical reaction will occur leading to corrosion. However, if the design contains small metal parts, they can be protected by lubricating them with grease.
  • Also, some manufacturers do not recommend fumigation with a saber in polycarbonate greenhouses , because it will cause the surface of the material to darken (the lighting will deteriorate, which is very bad for plant photosynthesis). However, this is only possible with frequent processing. And as experience shows, many summer residents do not notice any negative changes after the procedure.

Use of chemicals

Important! When using chemicals, you must follow the safety rules:

  • It is necessary to use personal protective equipment: respirator, safety glasses, rubber gloves, aprons.
  • You cannot stay inside the greenhouse during processing for more than 5-10 minutes.
  • After the procedure, you need to thoroughly wash your hands, face, and mouth.
  • It is necessary to carefully study the instructions for use of the drug and follow safety precautions.

Instead of using a sulfur bomb, you can treat the greenhouse in the fall using chemicals:

  • Copper sulfate. If your plants have previously been exposed to diseases, then you need to dilute 150 grams per 10 liters of water. If there were no signs of disease, then for prevention purposes you can dilute 80 grams per 10 liters of water.

Important! Copper sulfate cannot be used annually, as it accumulates in the soil and negatively affects plants! In general, copper-containing preparations should be used very carefully!

  • Bleaching powder. To prepare the solution, you need to dilute 400 grams of the substance in 10 liters of water, leave for several hours, and then strain.

Important! After treating the greenhouse, you need to immediately close it completely (both the door and the windows) and leave it for 2-3 days, and then ventilate it well.

The use of chemical fungicides has a negative effect on beneficial soil microorganisms, so after treatment it is necessary to shed the soil “Fitosporin-M”, “Baikal EM1”, “Azotofit” . However, such products are effective at temperatures above +10 degrees.

Where does the greenery inside the polycarbonate honeycomb come from?

Cellular polycarbonate is a material consisting of several layers in which there are long longitudinal channels, or stiffening ribs, called honeycombs. These honeycombs contain air, due to which the weight of the material is reduced, and thermal conductivity and insulating properties are improved. However, sometimes, if the greenhouse is installed incorrectly, condensation accumulates in the honeycombs and a green coating forms - mossy mold. The reasons for its appearance are the same as for black mold - poor ventilation and high humidity. In addition to infecting the soil and plants, plaque reduces the light transmission of polycarbonate (the walls become opaque due to greenery), which again contributes to the appearance of various types of mold.

Green coating on polycarbonate appears inside honeycombs

Strashnov

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Why is processing needed?

Garden crops need moisture and heat created in the greenhouse. Unfortunately, the same characteristics are also important for various microorganisms that infect greenhouse plants with diseases, and the structure itself with mold and mildew. All this accumulates during the summer, reaching its maximum in the fall.

Autumn cleaning of the greenhouse is very important

It is very important to begin preparing the greenhouse for the season in the fall, when all the plants in the greenhouse have completed their fruiting cycle.

Terms and rules for processing polycarbonate greenhouses

What to do in the fall:

  • fertilize and disinfect the soil;
  • remove fungus and clean moldy areas in the room;
  • remove, clean and repair the structure.


Infographics. What to do in the greenhouse in the fall

Each stage of the event should be considered separately and in detail.

Stage 1. Cleaning

From the greenhouse you need to remove plant tops, weeds, supports, garters - all this should be burned to prevent subsequent infection of the planted plants.

All plant remains must be removed from the greenhouse.

Material that cannot be burned must be treated with an antifungal drug - potassium permanganate or phytosporin. The equipment is soaked for 30 minutes in the solution, after which it is thoroughly washed, dried and stored in a dry place until spring.


Cleaning up debris within the greenhouse

In order to provide the greenhouse with the most optimal soil composition, you should know what components should be included in its composition.

Table. What components should be included in greenhouse soil?

ComponentsDensity (g/cm3)Porosity (% by volume)Lowest moisture capacity (% of volume)Total moisture capacity (% of volume)Cation exchange capacity (mg-eq/100 g)
Organic
Humus0,4-0,765-8060-70300-400200-250
Lowland peat0,1-0,380-9075-85350-1000150-200
High peat0,05-0,180-9670-80800-1500100-120
Hydrolytic lignin0,18-0,280-9070-80400-500100-150
Vermicompost0,3-0,570-8565-75300-450200-250
Sawdust0,2-0,380-9050-60400-450100-120
Bark of tree0,3-0,470-8540-45100-150100-120
Straw0,1-0,285-95200-300
Mineral
Humus horizons1-1,440-6520-3528-6510-70
Perlite0,259050360
Sand1,6345231-3
Expanded clay0,68025130
Vermiculite0,29065450100-150
Zeolite160406050-130

Preparing the soil for winter: treating against diseases, digging, replacing, sowing green manure

Treating the soil against pests is very important for properly preparing the greenhouse for winter. In addition, it is necessary to dig, replace the top soil layer (if necessary) and sow green manure.

Advice! It is optimal to do autumn soil preparation at the end of September, in the first half of October. It is very important to be in time before the first frost!

Digging the soil

To achieve maximum efficiency in soil disinfection, it is necessary to first dig up the area in the greenhouse.

You need to dig up the soil using the bayonet of a shovel . At the same time, after digging, there is no need to disassemble clods of earth and loosen them.

In addition to the fact that spraying the soil with fungicides will be the most effective, the soil will freeze better in winter, which will have a positive effect on the elimination of pathogens and pests.

Soil disinfection

The most important stage in preparing a greenhouse for winter and the new dacha season is preventative tillage of the soil against diseases in the fall. After all, it is easier to prevent them by spending a little time on prevention, rather than then spending energy on eliminating the disease, treating plants and saving the harvest.

Important! As noted above, when using chemicals, you must follow safety precautions: use personal protective equipment, do not stay in the room for more than 5-10 minutes, follow the instructions, and then thoroughly wash your hands, face, and mouth.

To disinfect soil to prevent diseases, you can use:

  • Chemical fungicides , for example, preparations Hom, Oxychom, Quadris, Bravo, 1% copper sulfate (100 grams per 10 liters of water), Bordeaux mixture.
  • Biological preparations , for example, Fitosporin-M, Baikal EM1, Trichodermin, Baktofit.

Advice! If the plants in your greenhouse area have not previously suffered from diseases, then it is better to use biological preparations, because they are safer, and also heal the soil and restore soil fertility.

At the same time, to achieve the greatest efficiency, it is recommended to re-cultivate the soil after 2 weeks.

If the plants in your greenhouse have been exposed to diseases, then the following preparations can be used for effective treatment in the fall:

  • Against late blight, you can treat the soil with a solution, for example, Hom, Abiga-Pik, Consento, Revus, Fitosporin-M, 3% Bordeaux mixture.
  • To combat powdery mildew, you can shed the soil with a solution of Topaz, Gamair, Quadris, Tiovit Jet, Fitosporin-M.
  • Against brown spot (cladosporiosis), you can use Hom, Fitosporin-M, Pseudobacterin-2, Polyram, 3% Bordeaux mixture.
  • against fusarium in the fall with Oxyx, Trichofit, Gamair, Energy, Previkur.
  • For treatment against root rot, you can use the drugs Trichodermin, Baktofit, Gamair, Pseudobacterin-2, Planriz.

By the way! As already noted in this material, sulfur bomb perfectly disinfects the soil.

Important! If you use any chemical fungicides, then after them you must definitely restore the soil microflora, for example, using Fitosporin or Baikal EM1, Baktofit.

Replacing the top fertile layer

In the soil under greenhouse conditions, over time, fertilizers, remnants of fungicides, insecticides accumulate, and if disinfection is insufficient, pathogens accumulate. Therefore, once every 3-4 years it is recommended to replace the top fertile layer of soil in the greenhouse (the first 10-15 centimeters).

Replacing the soil improves the quality of the soil, minimizes the risk of developing diseases and breeding pests (however, it is not a complete guarantee of this!).

The old soil layer can be spread out on your site, but if you are sure that the soil is of poor quality, then it is better to take it somewhere outside your site.

In place of the old soil, you can bring regular soil from your site. But it is better to use a mixture to create a fertile soil layer: peat, humus or compost, sand (all ingredients in equal proportions). It is also advisable to add ash to the mixture (200 grams per square meter).

Note! If the procedure is not possible for you, then you can do without replacing the top layer of soil in the greenhouse and simply spread the above ingredients on the surface (or better yet, dig up the area with them).

Sowing green manure in a greenhouse

Green manure is very useful for any soil in your garden, including in a greenhouse. Sowing green manure will bring many benefits: they loosen the soil, improve its air exchange, saturate the soil with nitrogen and other useful substances, and promote soil disinfection. Therefore, it is highly recommended to carry out such preparation of the soil in the fall for winter and the next summer season.

It is optimal to sow green manure at the end of September or at the beginning of October. If you don’t have time to plant them at the right time, you can do winter sowing in November.

For a greenhouse, it is optimal to sow the following green manures:

  • white mustard;
  • Vika;
  • rye;
  • alfalfa;
  • phacelia.

You can sow seeds simply by scattering them around the perimeter of the structure. Or you can make furrows and plant green manure in them, and then seal them with a rake.

After planting, you should water the soil (it is more effective to use not just water, but a solution of Fitosporin).

When sowing in early autumn, it is necessary to regularly water the soil for 15 days (preferably every day). Or mulch with compost or agrofibre to retain moisture.

At the end of autumn, it is necessary to check the condition of green manure. If they have grown enough, then you need to cut them at ground level and leave them on the site. If they have grown quite a bit, then you can leave everything as is for the winter.

Important! It is necessary to sow green manure in a greenhouse in the fall after disinfecting the structure and soil (i.e., after fumigation with a saber or spilling a solution of a chemical fungicide). If planted before such treatment, the green manure will die.

Application of organic fertilizers

If you have a greenhouse growing vegetable crops that love fertile soil, for example, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, peppers, etc., then it is recommended to use fertilizers in the fall. It is advisable to fertilize the soil if you have not replaced the topsoil.

Organic fertilizers are suitable - compost, humus (1 bucket of organic matter per square meter of area). Afterwards you need to dig up.

Cleaning the greenhouse

After harvesting the garden, the area is cleaned: garbage is burned, beds are dug for spring, and dry stems from vegetables are removed. A small indoor vegetable garden was no exception. After harvesting, it is necessary to carry out certain measures to clean the greenhouse.

First, the existing auxiliary devices that were used to tie up the vegetables are removed: slats, ropes, ropes. It is necessary to pull out remnants of vegetation in the form of leaves, weeds, and stems. This will provide protection against infection during subsequent planting. A convenient way would be to collect organic matter and burn it. In some cases, gardeners place these residues in the used compost pit, and as a result receive excellent fertilizer. It is also necessary to disinfect the soil.

In a greenhouse, you need to dig up the soil, and during the process, get rid of existing roots along the way. If leaves get clogged into greenhouse crevices, the joints can be breeding grounds for diseases. Everything in the greenhouse must be carefully checked.

Stage 3. Processing of the structure

After this, it is necessary to clean the parts of the greenhouse - the covering, the frame. If the plants have not been sick this season, you just need to wash the walls with water, going over parts of the frame. Glass elements and polycarbonate should be washed with 400 g of bleach dissolved in a bucket of water.

Polycarbonate greenhouse cleaning products

Sometimes it is enough to wash the inside with laundry soap.


Cleaning polycarbonate greenhouse elements

Washing and treating greenhouse walls

Important! It is easy to spoil the polycarbonate coating, so you should only use soft rags, sponges or rags. It is prohibited to use metal brushes, hard meshes, or fabric for bags.

Do not use abrasive materials to clean polycarbonate.

Soil preparation

Some of the work involved in preparing the soil for next season may have already been done, since it involves removing any remaining organic matter. Summer residents perform these actions during general cleaning of the greenhouse.

However, this procedure is not limited to just harvesting the remaining plant roots. Next you need to do the following:

  • replace the depleted top layer of soil (about 5cm);
  • treat the soil with bactericidal agents or scald with boiling water.

It is better to avoid fertilizing in the fall. It is useful to hold such events in the spring. With the onset of winter, in the event of snowfall, experienced summer residents recommend periodically scattering snow over the entire ground surface in the greenhouse. This will allow:

  • provide reliable protection of the soil from severe frosts;
  • additionally moisten the soil as a result of melting snow with the onset of a warm period.

Cleaning

General cleaning of a polycarbonate greenhouse involves several stages:

  1. First, you need to remove all tools remaining in the greenhouse, such as tourniquets, rakes, shovels and other items.
  2. After this, it is necessary to clear the soil of any remaining plants.
  3. The top layer of soil, a few centimeters thick, is then removed and discarded.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this process. This can be done gradually if the greenhouse area is too large.

Preparing the greenhouse for processing

Cleaning

Everything had to be removed from the greenhouse in the fall, leaving empty walls and empty beds inside. However, situations are different. If autumn cleaning was missed, it will have to be done in early spring.

All used equipment is disinfected or destroyed:

  • pegs, supports, trellises, racks, etc.,
  • ropes, twines, garters, etc.,
  • irrigation systems,
  • shovels, rakes, scoops, rippers, etc.

All plant remains from last year must be disposed of. Ideally, they are burned.

Checking the condition of the greenhouse

The first stage of preparing a structure for spring planting is checking its condition after wintering. Even a greenhouse that is properly prepared for winter can suffer some damage over the long cold months without constant supervision.

Both all frame parts and the coating itself need to be checked. Before proceeding directly to processing, all damage must be corrected.

Useful tips on how to properly prepare a greenhouse for wintering

Autumn work in a greenhouse includes not only disinfection of the structure and soil.

  1. In addition to removing tops and other plant debris , it is worth taking out pegs, twine and other auxiliary materials of natural origin and burning them.
  2. Equipment, such as watering cans, shovels, rakes, basins, etc., should be disinfected along with the greenhouse structure in order to disinfect and get rid of fungus, insects, and microorganisms.
  3. During processing, it is necessary to check the integrity of the greenhouse structural elements and repair faulty ones.
  4. To prevent roof failure due to snow and ice accumulation , it makes sense to install support pillars at equal distances inside the structure.

How to wash a polycarbonate greenhouse. How to clean a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall

Greenhouses made of polycarbonate allow you to get a rich harvest, they are easy to install, and not as fragile as glass. However, they need to be looked after, especially in the fall. Work on preparing greenhouses in winter is necessary both to increase the service life of the structures and so that next year you can count on a harvest.

Cleaning and disinfection

Regardless of which region the greenhouse is located in - Moscow or Vologda - the range of events held in the fall is the same. Treatment should begin in the fall by removing all plant remains, garter material (lattices, rods, ropes), and used containers (pots, bags). It is advisable that nothing remains inside the greenhouse.

Next, you need to wash the greenhouse in the fall. You can use plain water and a soft rag or sponge for this purpose. To make it easier to remove dirt, a soap solution is also used; laundry soap is used to prepare it. Sometimes films of green algae may appear on surfaces inside the greenhouse. They must be washed with a brush and special products; it is forbidden to use scrapers or abrasive powders.

In the fall, insects can settle in the greenhouse between the structural elements. To remove them from hard-to-reach places, use a sprayer with a long nozzle. For disinfection, you can only use those products that are recommended by the manufacturer of cellular polycarbonate. Such procedures require time and effort.

A more acceptable option is sulfur bombs. You need to use it like this:

  1. Before use, it is recommended to check the tightness of the greenhouse and, if necessary, eliminate any gaps.
  2. Place the checker on a metal sheet. Set it on fire.
  3. Close doors and windows tightly.
  4. The premises can only be opened in 24 hours.
  5. Ventilate well.

The gas released from the sulfur bomb during smoldering destroys mold, as well as possible pests.

Tillage

Preparing the soil for new crops should begin in the fall

During this period, it is important not only to wash the polycarbonate, but also to take care of the soil. The first thing to do is to remove any remaining roots and plants.

Then experts recommend removing a ball of soil 5 cm thick. This soil has already been greatly depleted over the year of “work”, so it will be useless for the new harvest.

Then you should treat the soil with bactericidal solutions, although you can simply scald it with boiling water. It is better to apply fertilizers in the spring. What to choose - humus, complex mineral fertilizer or compost depends on the initial soil in the greenhouse and what you plan to grow in it. In winter, it is advisable to bring snow inside the greenhouse. In cold weather it will protect the soil from freezing, and with the onset of heat it will well moisten the soil.

Preparing the greenhouse for winter

Kremlin greenhouses are quite durable structures. It is not recommended to remove polycarbonate sheets from them in winter. In the fall, it is necessary to inspect the frame, namely the metal parts, for corrosion. If rust appears, it needs to be cleaned and then painted over.

Cracks and breaks may be on the polycarbonate; when examining, pay special attention to the joints of the sheets. Sealing is recommended before disinfection.

In many regions, including Moscow, a significant amount of snow falls in winter. If you want to remove it from the surface of the greenhouse, then use an ordinary soft broom or broom for this. The greenhouse may be damaged if sharp or hard tools are used.

If you are looking for how to clean a polycarbonate greenhouse, then take a look at the product catalog that sells products in Moscow and the region. Among our products you will find everything you need for care: both tools and products. Their purchase will help to significantly save the effort and time required to prepare the greenhouse.

Preservation for the winter

When the cleaning is completely completed, it’s time to begin the process of preserving the greenhouse for the winter. This must be done by following simple rules:

  1. If in winter some plants, for example greens, will grow in the greenhouse, then the foundation must be insulated using foam sheets. If these materials are not available, then you can use wooden brushes, film, or an embankment of soil.
  2. At the bottom it is necessary to lay another layer of polycarbonate or a special film to prevent cold air from entering.
  3. For greenhouses located in more severe climatic conditions, heating will have to be used. To do this, you can buy ultraviolet heaters or fan heaters.
  4. For better plant development, experts recommend using additional lighting.
  5. If a thick layer of snow accumulates on the roof in winter, then it is best to take care of additional supports so that the structure does not collapse under the weight.

If you do not neglect the care rules described above, you can quite effectively and efficiently prepare your polycarbonate greenhouse for the new season. I hope that in the spring I will harvest much more than last time.

Processing a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall

Treating your greenhouse in the fall is very important. But before you start, you need to familiarize yourself with a set of measures that will ensure a good harvest next season.

How to treat a greenhouse in the fall after harvesting

Many people will find it difficult to prepare a greenhouse for the new season in the fall, but it is not recommended to ignore this process. In the fall, immediately after harvesting, it is necessary to prepare the soil and begin processing the structure itself. Procedures that need to be carried out in dry, cool weather include:

  • complete cleaning of the polycarbonate greenhouse;
  • general cleaning, removal of remaining fertile crops and weeds;
  • treatment of all surfaces from the inside;
  • repair of the building if necessary;
  • replacement of greenhouse soil, disinfection and soil treatment;
  • strengthening of polycarbonate structures, insulation, lighting.

Maintaining consistency and obligatory completion of each item in the fall is the key to a rich harvest next year.

Treating a greenhouse in the fall against pests and diseases

Treatment of all greenhouse surfaces in the fall provides for getting rid of possible diseases and pests. Since microorganisms, cells that contribute to their spread, can settle on the walls of the room. Processing is carried out in several stages:

  1. Removing polycarbonate equipment from the greenhouse, removing above-ground and underground plant debris, digging up the soil.
  2. Wash away dirt from surfaces using a hose with a sprayer.
  3. Preparing a soap solution and washing the walls and ceiling with a sponge.
  4. Cleaning cracks and knots with a special brush.
  5. Dousing a polycarbonate greenhouse with clean water.
  6. Wiping the room with a dry cloth.

More information about the correct treatment of a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall:

How to prepare a greenhouse for winter: post-tomato treatment

Preparing a polycarbonate greenhouse for winter after tomatoes should begin in October. In this case, you need to follow a certain sequence of actions:

  1. Removal of all vegetation. After the tomatoes grow, there are a lot of residues left, which are sometimes difficult to notice, but they must be gotten rid of without fail.
  2. Replacement of the top layer of soil. It could contain fungal spores and pest larvae, which in the future could settle on plants and lead to the death of the crop.
  3. Soil digging and disinfection. This procedure helps to finally get rid of possible problems for subsequent vegetation.
  4. Treatment of the frame and coating with sulfur and bleach.

When disinfecting and treating a polycarbonate greenhouse, you must adhere to all safety rules and carry out the procedure only in a protective suit.

How to prepare a greenhouse for winter: disinfection after cucumbers

Preparing a polycarbonate greenhouse for winter in the fall after cucumbers is practically no different from the previous system with tomatoes:

  1. General cleaning, recultivation of beds. Removing all vegetation, replacing the top layer, digging up the soil.
  2. Disinfection of the area. You should spend more time on this stage and use sulfur bombs, bleach or biological products.
  3. Processing a polycarbonate greenhouse. Washing the panels, which will allow snow to melt freely in the future.

In case of deformation of the structure, strengthen it, strengthen the frame, with a polycarbonate thickness of 4–6 mm.

How to prepare a greenhouse for winter: how to treat the frame and coverings

Preparing a greenhouse for winter involves careful treatment of the structure from the inside and outside. Rinse the metal and polyvinyl chloride frame of the polycarbonate greenhouse with hot water mixed with vinegar in a ratio of 1:0.05. It is better to wipe the wooden frame with a solution of copper sulfate (10%).

It is better to treat the polycarbonate coating with a solution of potassium permanganate. Watering must be carried out carefully, without missing a single centimeter both outside and inside. After treatment, create a draft and dry the structure.

Important! It is strictly not recommended to treat polycarbonate greenhouses with strong alkalis.

Disinfection of greenhouses

Before the first frost hits, you should wash the inside of the polycarbonate greenhouse. This should be done in the fall. The better its walls are treated, the more productive the next year will be. Thanks to this treatment, it is possible to get rid of dirt, soil residues or plant parts.

Before winter, it is worth thoroughly disinfecting the greenhouse so that pathogens and pests do not survive until the next season. Sulfur and potassium permanganate are usually used for this purpose. These are better means than washing the inside of a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall.

Finely ground sulfur mixed with potassium permanganate, laid out on metal elements, is evenly placed in several places of the cultivation object and set on fire. Sulfur checkers are also very popular. Sulfur combustion should be carried out at a temperature of about 20 °C, and approximately 100 kg of sulfur and 40 g of potassium permanganate are consumed per 100 m².

After burning, approximately 24 hours later, the object must be thoroughly ventilated and plant debris carefully removed. Clean and clear glass allows more light into the greenhouse. Light is of great importance for crop growth.

Therefore, you should regularly clean the walls of the greenhouse, both inside and outside, thus removing rust, dust and other contaminants from the glass. A special cleaner is used for this.

Why treat a greenhouse in the fall?

Immediately after harvesting in the greenhouse, it is necessary to carry out a set of disinfection measures, this will get rid of diseases, including the common late blight and pests. Treating the greenhouse in the fall significantly minimizes the risk of disease in subsequently grown vegetable crops and greatly facilitates the preparation of the greenhouse in the spring.


In autumn you need to prepare for spring

The importance of autumn greenhouse cleaning

Many people practice growing crops with different maintenance requirements together; others, saving space, try to plant vegetables close to each other. Failure to comply with basic agrotechnical requirements quickly leads to sudden outbreaks of disease and the infestation of harmful parasites.

Not all vegetable growers pay due attention to the autumn preparation of the greenhouse, believing that all preparatory work can be quickly done in the spring. This is fundamentally wrong, since fungus, mold, and insect larvae overwinter well in a greenhouse, and in the spring before planting seedlings it becomes too late to fight them

Insects like whiteflies can only be destroyed at the larval stage, since in their adult state they are no longer afraid of chemicals.

That is why it is very important to begin comprehensive preventive treatment in the fall and continue it in the spring. Timely cleaning of the greenhouse will help protect the future harvest from many misfortunes

After harvesting, it is necessary to carry out cleaning and processing

The need for seasonal soil preparation

It is known that in one spring-summer season the soil in a greenhouse is depleted, microelements and substances necessary for plants are washed out of it. The top layer is populated by parasites and pathogenic bacteria, which, being in a warm, nutritious environment, actively multiply, filling the entire area of ​​the greenhouse. Ideally, the soil should be updated once every five years, but if this is not possible, it is sufficient to treat it thoroughly every year.

Autumn preparation and disinfection of greenhouse soil is simply necessary, as it will help solve a number of problems:

  • eliminate sources of diseases;
  • destroy pest larvae;
  • will contribute to increasing soil fertility.


The quality of the future harvest depends on the condition of the soil

The top layer of soil (10-15 cm) must be removed with a shovel. After this, the soil must be dug up, manually removing the larvae from the inverted layers. An excellent way to increase soil fertility and suppress the reproduction of insects is to sow green manure crops (mustard, cereals or beans). The mowed green manure can be left on the surface or buried deep, thus creating a kind of “air cushion”.

Freshly brought soil must be treated with special biological products (Fitosporin, Siyanie-1) or chemicals (Bordeaux mixture, potassium permanganate).

High-quality preparation, treatment and fertilization of the soil in the fall will perfectly prepare it for the upcoming planting season. This will eliminate some of the spring hassle in the greenhouse - the soil will already be ready for planting vegetables.


Fertilizer for beds

Greenhouse care after harvest

Polycarbonate greenhouses appeared relatively recently, but quickly gained popularity among both amateur gardeners and agricultural producers. Polycarbonate is quite strong, durable and reliable, and a lightweight frame made of profile metal pipe makes the entire structure mobile. However, during the gardening season, dirt, insect waste products, and various pathogenic microflora accumulate on the walls and load-bearing elements, which multiply intensively in conditions of high temperature and humidity.

Autumn greenhouse care includes several mandatory activities. These include:

  1. Cleaning up tops, fallen leaves, and plant residues after fruiting crops.
  2. Digging up the soil, removing weeds and insect larvae.
  3. Disinfection or replacement of soil.
  4. Washing the walls and supporting structures of the greenhouse.
  5. Disinfection of the internal surface of the greenhouse.

If the shelter is not used in winter, you can dismantle various auxiliary systems, if any have been installed (lighting, drip irrigation, etc.). The less cluttered the interior space is, the easier it will be to clean and disinfect it.

Do I need to maintain a greenhouse?

If you do not wash the polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall and do not remove all organic residues from it, next year the greenhouse crops will be exposed to a whole “bouquet” of various diseases. It is very important to carry out a kind of general cleaning at this time, disinfecting not only the greenhouse soil, but also all elements of the structure.

When is it better to wash the greenhouse: in autumn or spring?

It is best to wash and disinfect polycarbonate greenhouses in the fall. This is due to many factors. One of them is free time, of which there is much more in the fall, which means that all processing and disinfection work can be carried out slowly and with the required quality.

It is also important that chemicals that can be used for washing and disinfection, even if they enter the soil before spring, are guaranteed to decompose and will not cause any harm to future crops.

Do I need to wash the greenhouse after harvesting?

The time after harvest in the fall is the most optimal time for washing and disinfecting the greenhouse. During this period, it is easier to remove all organic residues from the walls and frame; if you leave them until spring, they will petrify and it will be much more difficult to wipe them off. There is a direct analogy here with dirty dishes, which are much easier to wash after eating than to then soak dried food residues.

Cleaning the outside of the greenhouse

Having dealt with cleaning and washing the polycarbonate greenhouse from the inside, you should remember about its outer frame. Some people believe that this is not necessary, but I did not neglect this rule. For washing, I used exactly the same soap solution that I used inside. But since the dirt on the outside is quite persistent, it could not be done without the help of hard brushes.

For some sections we even had to use a Karcher. I was not too lazy to bring a ladder and wash the entire roof of the greenhouse

I had to act very carefully so as not to fall from a height. This part of cleaning the polycarbonate greenhouse took me a whole day

How to wash a greenhouse correctly

Mix a few drops of soap with a bucket of water. Use a soft sponge to gently wash the inside of the polycarbonate sheets to remove any accumulated dirt. Rinse the walls with a hose and blot with a soft towel to avoid water marks.

It is necessary to avoid possible particles of sand and dust getting on the sponge; they can scratch the surface of the sheet. Why is it important not to use abrasive sponges, solvents, etc.? High-quality sheets of cellular polycarbonate are coated with a UV protective layer, which provides protection for the sheets when exposed to sunlight. Abrasives can damage the layer, which means the sheet in this place will become dull, turn yellow and collapse.

As for the outside of the sheets, simply rinse them with a hose. If you notice that the panels are still dirty, use a cleaning solution and sponge on them.

Tillage

Preparing the soil for new crops should begin in the fall

During this period, it is important not only to wash the polycarbonate, but also to take care of the soil. The first thing to do is to remove any remaining roots and plants.

Then experts recommend removing a ball of soil 5 cm thick. This soil has already been greatly depleted over the year of “work”, so it will be useless for the new harvest.

Then you should treat the soil with bactericidal solutions, although you can simply scald it with boiling water. It is better to apply fertilizers in the spring. What to choose - humus, complex mineral fertilizer or compost depends on the initial soil in the greenhouse and what you plan to grow in it. In winter, it is advisable to bring snow inside the greenhouse. In cold weather it will protect the soil from freezing, and with the onset of heat it will well moisten the soil.

Winter crops in autumn

Despite intensive preparations for winter, in the fall you can also take care of the future harvest. You can set aside a small corner in the greenhouse for planting sorrel or wild garlic. This place should be insulated with leaves or spruce branches more thoroughly, and after the first snow falls, throw a small snowdrift up to 1 m high on the bed. Already in early March, when the snow melts in the greenhouse, you will be able to see the first shoots, and harvest in April.

Planting winter crops in autumn

Cleaner composition

Copper-based preparations are commonly used in gardening. A preparation based on copper sulfate can also be used for processing.


You can also use hydrogen peroxide (37%), you will need to purchase a canister. Perhydrol is diluted in a ratio of 1:10. It can be used for metal processing. It has a bactericidal effect and removes rust.

Hydrogen fluoride glass cleaners are very powerful and also produce fumes. The released substances are poisonous to humans and harm crops. Therefore, it is important to thoroughly ventilate the greenhouse after using hydrogen fluoride.


These fumes can also damage neighboring crops, especially bulbous plants such as freesias or lilies during weathering. This should be taken into account. A safer alternative for greenhouses and the people handling them is bleach and potassium permanganate solution.

Another remedy is ammonium bifluoride. This is a salt that can be used to remove rust, algae particles, moss or dust. Ammonium bifluoride cleaner is gentler and does not produce fumes. Therefore, it is safer for both people and garden crops.

Important! Cleaning preparations do not disinfect the walls. To remove bacteria, viruses, fungi, use a disinfectant.

Why you need to clean your greenhouse regularly

While a greenhouse provides an ideal environment to protect plants from harsh weather, it can also provide an ideal climate for unwanted pests. The tiny insects will thrive wherever you give them a chance, so they need to be controlled regularly.

For example, midges will breed on organic debris. Pests and pathogens can live not only in plant material, but also on polycarbonate walls. Cleaning polycarbonate sheets thoroughly helps prevent the formation of algae and mold.

Even a little maintenance can go a long way in ensuring your plants thrive. Disinfecting your greenhouse gives your plants and the structure the best chance to thrive.

What pests and diseases can overwinter in a greenhouse?

Not all greenhouse inhabitants harm plants. Soil is a living organism; it contains billions of bacteria that constantly work to convert organic matter into chemical compounds that plants consume for growth and development. In addition, the soil is inhabited by worms and insects, and only some of them are dangerous to plants. Do we need to kill everyone outright using strong chemicals?

Recommendations for soil disinfection in a greenhouse

First, you need to figure out what pests and pathogens can survive the winter in a greenhouse and what conditions contribute to this.

Aphids are small insects that feed on plant sap. Aphid colonies can grow rapidly in greenhouse conditions, which leads to damage to young shoots and reduced yield. In addition, aphids secrete a sweetish sticky liquid, creating conditions for the development of fungal diseases.


Aphid

Aphids overwinter in greenhouses and greenhouses in the egg stage, hiding in weeds and unharvested plant debris. In the spring, larvae emerge from the eggs, which soon turn into an adult insect that can cause damage to young plants. In addition, ants hide aphids in their nests - they use this insect as a cash cow, feeding on sweet secretions, and even carry it around the garden in search of new “pastures”.

Ants carry aphids

To eliminate aphids in a greenhouse, it is necessary to carry out thorough pre-winter cleaning of weeds, dead shoots and plant tops. Experienced gardeners also recommend expelling ants from the greenhouse and destroying all anthills built in it.

The whitefly is a flying, sucking insect similar to a moth. Colonies of whiteflies settle on plants and suck the juice from them. The plant gradually withers and dies, the yield is significantly reduced. In a greenhouse, the whitefly can overwinter provided that the temperature does not drop below -5°C; in severe frosts, the pests freeze out.

Whitefly

In the middle zone, to combat whiteflies, it is enough to open the windows in the greenhouse for the winter so that the temperature is equal to the outside temperature. In more southern regions with mild winters, the greenhouse and top layer of soil should be treated with one of the systemic preparations, which will be discussed below.

Spider mites are quite a serious pest that can destroy all the vegetation in a greenhouse in a matter of days. It can be identified by small dots on the backs of leaves and thin, random webs on plants. Spider mites overwinter in crevices of the frame and base of the greenhouse and wood debris. Natural and chemical preparations help against spider mites, but they should be used only after thorough cleaning.

Spider mite

Slugs in greenhouses are also a nuisance to gardeners. The fight against them is also complicated by the fact that they are active only in the dark, so sometimes it is difficult to understand who is eating the shoots and fruits. Slug larvae overwinter in the ground, in the top layer of soil. You can kill them with boiling water or chemicals.


Slug

Nematodes are small parasitic worms that live in the stems, roots or leaves of various vegetable crops. The nematode is a real scourge of greenhouses; it is extremely difficult to remove. Nematodes overwinter in the ground, at a depth of up to 20 cm, or in galls - thickenings on the roots of plants. Stem and leaf nematodes can also overwinter in plant debris.

Nematode - damaged roots

To eliminate nematodes in the garden, crop rotation is most effective. In this case, plants of the same type are returned to their original place no earlier than after 3-4 years. However, in a capital greenhouse this method is unacceptable. Replacing the soil also doesn’t help much, since removing soil to a depth of 20 cm is quite difficult.

To combat nematodes in industrial conditions, potent chemicals are used - systemic nematicides. They are extremely toxic to humans and kill all beneficial microflora in the soil, so they are used with caution in a home greenhouse.

Warming the soil to 50-60°C using hot water, as well as adding organic fertilizers and sugar can be beneficial. At the same time, saprophytes actively begin to multiply in the soil, attracting natural enemies of nematodes.

Strawberry nematode: photo of the pest

Another effective method is to plant plants that inhibit and repel nematodes. These include marigolds and watercress. These cold-resistant plants can be sown immediately after harvesting vegetable crops; in two to three months they will have time to thoroughly clean the soil.

Fungal diseases - late blight, cladosporiosis, fusarium, powdery mildew and various rots - appear in the greenhouse under unfavorable conditions and quickly affect the plants. It is difficult, and sometimes even impossible, to cope with them - most of the crop dies.


Phytophthora is a fungal disease of tomatoes.

Fungi are extremely resistant to external conditions and overwinter well indoors, settling on the soil, greenhouse walls and garden tools. To combat fungi, fungicides and copper-based preparations are used.

Viral and bacterial diseases can be introduced into the greenhouse with soil and planting material, and they are also carried by sucking insects. Therefore, the prevention of viral and bacterial diseases in a greenhouse comes down to cleaning, removing harmful insects and preventive treatment of soil and structures with antibacterial drugs.


Bacteriosis - cucumber disease

Stages of preparation for cleaning

After the next harvest is completed, it is time to prepare for the autumn processing of the polycarbonate greenhouse, which consists of several stages.

Autumn cleaning in the greenhouse

The list of actions for autumn cleaning in a polycarbonate room answers the question of what needs to be done to prepare for the next season as successfully as possible, and consists of:

  • removing the remains of previous plants from the greenhouse;
  • removal of all available means from the premises;
  • digging up, replacing the top part of the soil or disinfecting it;
  • putting all structural parts of the greenhouse in order;
  • preparing greenhouses for winter.

At the end of the harvest, first of all, you should remove from the premises material for gartering plants, pegs, racks, trellises and other auxiliary materials, tools and equipment. All this should be thoroughly cleaned, washed and disinfected with “Fitosporin” or potassium permanganate in the form of a dark burgundy solution, in which the equipment is soaked for 60 minutes. After this, everything is dried, painted if necessary and stored for winter storage.

Processing of greenhouse structures

If the design of the greenhouse provides for the removal of the polycarbonate coating, it is removed because pathogenic microorganisms accumulate on it. Polycarbonate plates are treated with disinfectants, as well as other parts of the structure, which are previously freed from contamination and possible rust. When wondering how to wash greenhouse structures, you should pay attention to a solution of laundry soap. Moreover, the frame parts are washed with soapy water both inside and outside. After washing, the soap solution is removed using a damp rag.

Important! The polycarbonate coating must be treated exclusively with detergents that do not have abrasive properties in order to avoid causing damage to the polycarbonate boards.

Disinfection of soil in greenhouse beds

In order for the greenhouse soil to be fully prepared for next spring, it must be rid of the old stems, foliage and roots. Then the top part of the soil is either removed or thoroughly disinfected. This is especially true in cases where crop rotation rules were not followed in greenhouse beds.

When the top soil layer up to 9 cm thick is removed, it is replaced with healthy, pre-prepared soil. Then they begin to dig up fresh soil along with the lower soil layer, combining it with the introduction of organic fertilizers in the form of fresh manure or enriching the soil with urea, which is another active supplier of nitrogen to the soil. And in order to answer the question of what fertilizers to apply, you should plan in advance what vegetables and berries are supposed to be planted in the greenhouse next season.

If during the past season there was no occurrence of diseases or pest invasions, then the top layer of soil is left in place.

But for the purpose of prevention, it undergoes mandatory disinfection using:

  • treating the soil with boiling water;
  • 3% solution of iron sulfate;
  • chlorine and lime solution;
  • copper sulfate solution.

Did you know? The first greenhouses similar to modern ones were built in the first half of the 13th century in Cologne by the German gardener Albert Mangus. Exotic plants grew, bloomed and bore fruit in these greenhouses so wildly that the gardener was even accused of witchcraft by the Inquisition.

What to do if polycarbonate becomes dull

If it becomes dull from dust, wash it. But most often, dullness is caused by destruction under the influence of UV. The leaf first fades, then turns yellow, then cracks, holes, etc. appear. The light transmission of the leaf decreases, it is no longer suitable for planting.

Fading can be avoided if you buy a quality sheet with a UV protective layer. Unfortunately, not all manufacturers apply UV protection of the required thickness and concentration. To be sure of the durability of the selected polycarbonate, ask the seller for a document confirming the manufacturer’s financial responsibility for the quality of the sheets.

Thus, the SafPlast plant bears financial responsibility for cellular polycarbonate of the Novattro, Actual!Bio, Rational brands in accordance with the Declaration of Quality Guarantee. Remember that choosing the right polycarbonate is the key to the longevity of your greenhouse.

A bleach solution may be required to clean the greenhouse frame, pots, trays, and hoses to sterilize and remove disease. But for polycarbonate, you should ONLY use dish soap or a solution specifically designed for polycarbonate.

Is it possible to cultivate the soil in a greenhouse with Belize?

The issue is very controversial. Some gardeners believe that all surfaces and garden tools can be treated with White. But they are terribly afraid that Whiteness will fall to the ground. Because when treating the walls with a solution containing White from a hose (sprayer), it will flow to the ground.

“I look at it more simply. All infection can easily travel through the air. In the spring, I wash my PC from the inside with a soft brush and some liquid soap. The main problem here is rinsing with clean water. The summer water supply does not work.

The soil. I don’t pull plants out of the soil, but pry them up with a pitchfork. I try to remove as many roots as possible. There used to be wonderful remedies, for example, carbation. Killed EVERYTHING. People switched to bleach, but the plant went bankrupt. Only Whiteness remained. I do all the work in the fall. My norm is 1 liter per 1 square meter. Dilution depends on soil moisture. But you need to soak it to a depth of 15-20 cm. In early spring, you can also etch the soil with hydrogen peroxide, but not pharmaceutical hydrogen peroxide - it’s just expensive - but buy a 34% canister. Dilute perhydrol 1:10. Before planting, you need to water the soil in the greenhouse with Baikal and “revitalize” the soil.”

Source

How to clean a greenhouse in spring, inside and out

Cleanliness is the key to health. This statement is as true for plants as it is for people. If the greenhouse was washed in the fall, then in the spring there will be much less hassle. All that remains is to update the result: go over all the details of the coating with clean water using a regular rag. You can also use an electric sprayer charged with clean water or a washing system, if available.

How to wash a greenhouse in the spring if it has been dirty for the winter? Ordinary soapy water is best suited for these purposes (it is better to use laundry soap or special garden soap). You can add a drug to the water against a particularly annoying disease or pest from last season, if there were any.

First, you can go through the greenhouse inside, then outside, leaving the foam on the surfaces for at least 10 minutes. Just when you've finished washing the outside, it's time to go back inside. In the same sequence, rinse all surfaces clean. When washing inside, you should be careful so that the soap solution does not fall on the ground.

How to wash a greenhouse with a washing station

How to use a sulfur bomb to treat a greenhouse

The undoubted advantage of fumigation with sulfur is that the gaseous sulfur dioxide formed as a result of its combustion will penetrate into any alkali and completely disinfect the entire greenhouse and the soil in it.

Instructions for use.

  1. Wash the frame and covering of the greenhouse and allow them to dry.
  2. Restore peeling paint.
  3. All unpainted metal parts are well coated with grease, otherwise corrosion is inevitable. Sulfuric anhydride combines with water to form an acid.
  4. Wet the entire internal surface of the greenhouse with water, including the joints.
  5. If there are cracks in it, seal them with tape. They will also need to seal the doorway if it does not fit tightly.
  6. They put on protective equipment - a special suit, gloves and a gas mask; in extreme cases, a respirator will do.
  7. A metal sheet is placed in the center of the greenhouse and, with the help of paper, one or several checkers are set on fire, if its area is large.
  8. Leave the greenhouse and carefully close the door.

The structure can be ventilated after three days.

Fungicides for late blight treatment

  • According to the instructions, use Gamair, Baikal, Hom, Redomil. Before choosing how to treat the soil against late blight in the spring, I would like to remind you that the late blight fungus adapts to drugs, so it is correct to carry out prevention with a new drug each time. Change late blight medications every season.
  • Bordeaux mixture or potassium permanganate - dilute according to the instructions, and then spray all parts of the greenhouse with a spray bottle.
  • Fitosporin is used only at positive temperatures, at temperatures higher than +10 degrees. This is a biological drug and at low temperatures it will not work at all. This is how to treat a greenhouse against late blight in the spring.

Ways to disinfect a greenhouse

Where to start? And you need to start by clearing the greenhouse of plant residues and related materials used in growing crops: pieces of film, ropes, stakes. You should not put all this inside or near the greenhouse, because... pathogens and pests may remain on them. It is recommended to take everything out and burn it.

After the work has been done, a whole range of recommended activities follows:

  1. washing the walls of the greenhouse with disinfectant solutions;
  2. disinfection of the greenhouse and soil with sulfur or tobacco bombs,
  3. replacing soil or deep digging of soil,
  4. soil freezing,
  5. chemical treatment,
  6. spilling biological products or herbal infusions,
  7. steaming the soil,
  8. sowing green manure.

By carrying out autumn preparation using one or more of these methods, you will ensure favorable conditions for your future harvest. With the onset of spring, it will be possible to begin planting work, spending much less time on preparation.

How to disinfect soil in a greenhouse

Disinfection of soil in a greenhouse in the spring is fundamentally different from similar treatment in the fall due to the impossibility of using chemicals. And here we are talking not only about complex treatment with formaldehyde, but also about the usual application of copper or iron sulfate, Bordeaux mixture and other chemicals against diseases and pests. Using all of the above to disinfect the land can negatively affect the well-being and growth of crops planted later.

If autumn soil disinfection was not carried out, do not despair. There are more gentle options for cultivating the soil in a greenhouse in the spring, so as not to harm future plantings.

Soil freezing

Suitable if you realized about the missed treatment in winter, before the temperature rose above -15 °C. All doors and windows in the greenhouse open. Snow is falling inside.

Steaming the soil

The soil in the greenhouse is poured with boiling water (3 buckets per square meter). After this, the surface is covered with thick plastic film and left alone for a couple of days.

Disinfection with potassium permanganate or nitrophen

The soil is spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate (1%) or nitrophen (3%). The event is held at least 15-20 days before planting the plants in the greenhouse.

Treatment with biological agents

The most popular biological products:

  • Fitosporin,
  • Economist is productive,
  • Trichocin,
  • Trichoplant,
  • Fitop-Flora-S.

Tilling the soil in a greenhouse in the spring before planting with biological preparations will only be effective if used on sufficiently warm and moist soil. In order for biological agents to act as stated, the temperature of the soil (not the air!) must be at least +14 °C. In addition, after treatment it is necessary to maintain its moisture by periodically watering.

The process itself is not complicated. The selected product is diluted in water according to the instructions. The soil in the greenhouse is generously spilled with the resulting solution. In principle, there can be no overdose here. After watering with the chosen product, you need to pour it just as generously with plain water. The surface is covered with film (to reduce evaporation and maintain humidity) and left for at least 14 minutes.

Disinfection of the soil with Fitop-Flora-S must be carried out twice before planting. With a waiting period after each treatment of 14 days.

Mechanical tillage in spring

As soon as the ground has warmed up enough to dig, the top layer of soil (about 7-10 cm) is removed.

The removed layer of soil is taken outside and... ...subjected to disinfection (but then nothing is planted in it), ... scattered around the garden in places where they grow that are not susceptible to greenhouse diseases and pests, ... sprinkled with manure and not used for at least three years.

On the greenhouse beds, instead of the excavated soil... ... a new purchased ready-made soil mixture is poured, ... disinfected soil is poured in advance (at least from last year), ... another layer of earth is removed, the foundation is laid for warm beds, sprinkled with lower soil enriched with fertilizers, ... if the original soil allows height of the beds, the remaining soil is simply dug up with the addition of the necessary fertilizers.

Treating a greenhouse in the spring against diseases and pests

Source

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