How to disassemble a toilet cistern with two buttons

A toilet tank is a sealed container into which tap water flows in order to flush at the right time. Thanks to its extremely simple design, you can easily repair this plumbing fixture yourself. And for this you need to know how to properly disassemble and reassemble. Do you agree?

We will tell you in great detail how to disassemble a toilet flush cistern, in what order the container is dismantled and the functional mechanisms are removed from it. Let us indicate in which situations it is necessary to remove it, and in which it is enough to perform actions without disassembling.

The article presented for your review lists typical malfunctions and cases requiring mandatory intervention. We have looked at repair options for old and new models. For visual perception, the information was supplemented with photo collections, diagrams, and videos.

How to diagnose problems?

If the flush tank is faulty, it quickly becomes obvious: water either leaks into the toilet bowl or begins to drip onto the floor. Sometimes it happens that the container does not fill.

No matter how cutting-edge and complex the design of the tank, breakdowns occur in the same way in all models.

External leaks are not always immediately visible. It happens that water drips out for weeks, but its amount is so small that the damp areas are not noticeable. Then the leak can be identified by the appearance of red spots and streaks of rust.

If they are, it is worth disassembling the tank and establishing the cause of the breakdown.

If there is no coarse filter, dirt and rust particles constantly enter the tank. They accumulate in the container and can damage the internal mechanisms of the structure and cause breakdown

Normally, the tank is filled to a predetermined level, and the rubber bulb is pressed to the drain hole, reliably closes it and is held in this position by water pressure. When you press the release mechanism, this bulb rises and opens the drain hole.

The rubber bulb must be constantly filled with air. To prevent water from getting into it, the design includes a special guide tube. It ensures the correct position of the pear in the “saddle”.

If the integrity of the bulb or tube itself is compromised, the mechanism fails.

This is what the rubber bulb of the tank should look like if it is in working order. It should remain elastic and fit well to the saddle.

The first thing to do after disassembling the tank is to inspect the bulb. If it has lost its elasticity and cracked, then this is where the cause of the leak lies. Worn rubber cannot cover the drain hole well; water leaks into cracks and gaps.

Rubber products of this type cannot be repaired, so the bulb just needs to be replaced.

If everything is fine with it, you need to make sure that no particles of dirt and rust get under the rubber, which can also interfere with the normal operation of the pear.

There are cases when the leakage problem can be solved by simply cleaning the tank. If it turns out that dirt has accumulated under the rubber bulb, it can be removed with a regular sponge. Often this is enough to restore normal operation. For preventative purposes, it also makes sense to wipe the walls of the container with a rag and remove plaque.

If the bulb is in order, then you should continue to inspect the toilet tank in search of the cause of the leak.

The tank does not fill if:

the supply hose is faulty;
The inlet valve of the float mechanism is worn out.

Water may leak out if:

the gasket between the tank and the toilet is worn out;
A leak has appeared at the installation site of the connecting screws.

Internal leaks occur when:

the overflow tube is not adjusted;
valve is faulty;
The float has failed.

All these components should be carefully checked and damaged parts repaired, adjusted or replaced. How to disassemble the tank and find these elements is shown in the video:

Toilet cistern repair

If after draining the water flow does not stop, then there may be either a breakdown of the shut-off valve or a malfunction of the drain mechanism. To accurately determine the problem, you need to disassemble the tank.

Toilet barrel repair. Fixing a leak in a barrel valve

How to disassemble a toilet cistern with a button:

The button is held in place by a locking ring.
To remove it, you need to hold down the button, under it you will see small depressions. Press the screwdriver into one of the recesses and turn the ring counterclockwise; Protrusions under the toilet cistern flush button
Carefully remove the unscrewed ring along with the plug.
Below them is a release mechanism; How to disassemble a toilet with a button
To view it, you need to lift the toilet lid.

Next, you need to carefully examine the drain and exhaust valves. If the water is not held by the shut-off mechanism, it will leak after the tank is completely filled. If the malfunction is in the dial, then the float will be under the water column, and the container itself will not be able to fully fill due to a constant leak. Or, on the contrary, the tank fills up excessively and the excess ends up in the overflow, from where there is a direct outlet to the toilet.

Types of drain valves

There are 2 ways to troubleshoot such problems:

Complete replacement of toilet flush tank fittings;
Partial replacement (of any valve or float).

How to replace the dial valve:

First, the water in the riser is shut off. Afterwards you need to disassemble the tank and remove the lid; Using an adjustable wrench, unscrew the flexible pipe from the water outlet. Below it is the inlet of the dial tap or valve; Standard intake design

The device is unscrewed from the tank. A new tap is being installed in its place.

Please note that if its outlet is plastic, then there is no need to seal the threads. At the same time, if the adapter between the flexible hose from the outlet and the valve is metal, for example, brass, then a fuglent will be required; The tank is assembled in the reverse order.

The drain valve is replaced in the same way:

The tank is disassembled and the lid is removed;
Basically, the problem is a worn ring under the valve. Replacing it will be difficult even for a novice plumber;
The fittings are carefully removed from the tank, the ring is removed, which seals the gap between the valve and the drain hole into the bowl. A new gasket is installed in its place. If it is not possible to buy an O-ring, you can replace it with a suitable piece of rubber or even a nylon stocking with sand. But under no circumstances seal the gap with a nail or other metal objects - this will damage the tank;
Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Many residents of multi-storey buildings are familiar with the discomfort associated with noise when filling the toilet tank. The problem here is too much water pressure. To get rid of the constant hum after draining, you need to adjust the dial mechanism.

In the noise suppression tank, a small tube extends from the inlet valve.
Through it, water falls to the bottom of the tank, after which the noise of the set stops. If this does not happen, then it is likely that the tube is located too high or that it is not there at all; Tube on valve
To solve the problem, you need to attach a small flexible tube to the outlet of the dial valve. Its length must reach the bottom of the tank - this will allow you to forget forever about the noise of the toilet when filling water;
If there is a tube, but it is too short, it can be lengthened or replaced with a suitable one.

It often happens that the toilet simply does not fill with water after flushing. Here the fault also lies in the dial valve. You need to turn off the water and remove the lid, after which the flexible connection is unscrewed from the supply valve. Afterwards you need to clear the tube from blockages, check the valve inlet and filter. Any stuck dirt, scale or other deposits can cause a decrease in water pressure.

Open by yourself

An old toilet model will not present any difficulties for you: just lift the lid and unscrew the fasteners at the top of the flush mechanism.

Removing a toilet lid with a button is a more difficult task. So that you don’t have to resort to the help of strangers, we’ll look at ways to open the toilet tank yourself.

Among the available tools, prepare a slotted screwdriver, that is, a flat one, and another metal object with a flat tip.

Model No. 1 with one button on the surface of the tank lid

Using a screwdriver, carefully and slowly turn the ring that is located around the button. Move counterclockwise and be as careful as possible to avoid damaging the surface of the lid.
As soon as the first shift occurs, you can put the screwdriver aside and continue to unscrew the ring by hand.
Having completely unscrewed the ring, you need to finally remove it and in the end you will get a plastic cylinder.
You can now lift the reservoir lid slightly.
Carefully turn it 900 so that the top of the toilet is positioned transversely to the tank.
Once the lid is in a perpendicular position, you will be able to remove the double-sided clothespin that holds the button.
Move one end of the clothespin to the right and the other to the left, while simultaneously rotating the clothespin along its axis.
You can now remove the toilet lid.
Place it carefully on a flat and stable surface so that it does not break.
Repair faults and check all mechanisms.
Reassemble the tank in reverse order.

One button tank

As you can see, disassembling a toilet cistern with one button is quite simple. The main thing is to follow the instructions and be extremely careful.

When repairing a toilet, a funny paradox occurs: it is always easier to disassemble than to assemble. Therefore, if you do not have instructions for assembling the mechanism, carefully remember your actions, or even better, write them down.

Model No. 2 with two buttons on the surface of the tank lid

To disassemble the two-button mechanism, press down on one half of the button and locate the small slot on the inside side of the other button.
Use a screwdriver to grab the slot and remove half of the button.
Then remove the other half of the button.
You will receive a small hole in which you will find a slotted screw - you need to remove it.
Lift the toilet lid slightly and begin to rotate it. As in the previous instructions, place the lid across the toilet cistern.
Now you need to remove the double-sided clothespin, one end of which move to the left, the other to the right. By rotating around its axis, the clothespin will allow you to finally disassemble the toilet tank.
During repair work, the tank lid must be placed on a hard and stable surface so that it does not accidentally break, bringing you even more trouble.
After completing all the repair processes, check the operation of the toilet in a disassembled state. If there are no complaints, proceed to assembling the toilet cistern.
Assembling the tank and closing it with a lid is as easy as disassembling it - do each step of the instructions in reverse order.

Model with two buttons

If a new toilet model begins to “mope”, do not rush to get upset; you can easily fix many problems yourself.

If you want to carry out even the smallest repair work on the toilet, remember that work should only begin with the water turned off. If you do not turn off the water in the riser, you can simply flood the apartment and the neighbors below.

Reconnect the water only after assembling the plumbing to check its operation.

A leaking toilet tank is a fairly simple breakdown that requires a little time and only men’s hands

When working at home with plumbing fixtures of any kind, you need to prepare in advance a place for temporary storage of all parts and components, to exclude any contact of children and animals with toilet or bathtub components. Small parts risk being swallowed or eaten, large parts risk falling and breaking.

A leaking toilet tank is a fairly simple breakdown that requires a little time and only a man’s hands. Don’t rush to call a plumber and look for a new toilet model. Be smart and deal with the problem at home yourself, which is both cheaper and more profitable.

Remove the water drainage device (siphon).

The water drainage device consists of a siphon

and
overflow tubes
.
A siphon
is a shut-off valve that serves to hold water in the tank and discharge it into the toilet. To discharge water, the siphon is equipped with a trigger mechanism, activated by a button, which, when pressed, drains water into the toilet.

Modern drainage devices are equipped with two drainage modes, which allows you to save water when necessary. Typically, this mode is carried out using two buttons: one drains the water halfway, and the other completely. But you can also find toilets with one button, where the flush depends on the degree and pressure.

In case of an emergency, when the inlet valve is faulty or poorly adjusted and water continuously flows into the tank, an overflow tube

, through which excess water is discharged into the toilet.

We clean the siphon from plaque and dirt in the same way as the inlet valve, and if the design allows it to be divided into several parts, then we separate and thoroughly wash each part. In this design, the upper part rotates clockwise or counterclockwise and freely comes out of the grooves of the base.

Now that all the elements are clean and functioning, we install them in the tank in their places, and then attach the tank to the toilet. Tighten the screws evenly so that the bottom surface of the tank is parallel to the surface of the toilet. If you allow it to skew, water will ooze out from under the tank.

It may happen that the gasket (cuff) connecting the toilet neck to the flush cistern becomes damaged, as in my case. I couldn’t find exactly the same one, so I did it simply: I left the old gasket, and around it I applied a thin strip of plumbing sealant and installed the tank on top. You can also apply a layer of caulk around the screw holes that secure the tank to the toilet.

It may be necessary to adjust the low or full flush water level, i.e. how much water should remain in the tank after using one of the flush modes. Although the factory settings are normal, if they do not suit you, you can set them to your liking.

The setting is carried out by moving the float or damper up and down relative to the siphon. When they move downward, the flow rate of drained water increases, and when they move up, it decreases.

Well, that’s basically all I wanted to say about preventative repairs of the toilet cistern. You can also read the article on what to do if your kitchen sink is clogged. Good luck!

Work process

How to attach a compact toilet cistern

First, a rubber cuff is applied. The service life increases with careful selection of this gasket; it protects against leakage from under the tank.

The surface of the special protrusion where the tank is attached should not contain any traces of defects. After installation work, the cuff should be in contact with the tank and shelf without gaps. To eliminate possible leaks, the cuffs must be lubricated with silicone sealant. It serves as a guarantee of additional fixation of the rubber gasket during fastening.

Once the plumbing installation work is completed, we perform a test flush

It is worth paying special attention to the process of filling the tank; if something is not satisfactory, you need to adjust the float device. If the flush tank works properly and there are no leaks, then the job was done correctly. https://www.youtube.com/embed/XxBFWHSj9Io

How to install a hinged type of tank

The flush tank is sold together with the toilet. The mounting height of the drain tank depends on the length of the pipe. A pipe with a cross-section of thirty-two millimeters can be made of plastic or metal and is connected to a water tank and toilet. Then holes are made in the wall according to the marks using a hammer drill. You can use fasteners from the kit or dowels; it is most reliable to mount them on brackets that you can buy yourself.

How to install a built-in tank

A hidden plastic tank is retracted into a special niche in the wall or installed behind a false wall made of plasterboard. Plumbing saves space in the toilet room and brightens up the modern interior. The installation process is not complicated; a support frame is used to fasten the elements - an installation; such a kit costs much more than a compact toilet. You can buy a bidet to go with the toilet.

Before installing the frame, you need to remove the pipes from the water supply and sewer system to the tank and toilet. After completing the work on fixing the dimensions of the frame frame and preparing the installation system, mark the fastening points on the wall and floor. Using a hammer drill, holes are made; you need to take into account the material of the wall so as not to damage the drill. Using anchor bolts or dowels, the frame frame is screwed to the wall.

It is important to maintain clear verticality; it is measured by the building level; compliance with this requirement is conditioned by the guarantee of uninterrupted operation of the plumbing. All plumbing elements are installed on the frame, starting from the flush cistern with toilet bowl to the siphon. The drain reservoir is connected to water

A drain button is installed in the false wall in pre-prepared holes. The flush button is double, so the system is dosed and allows you to select a full or partial flush mode of three or six liters, or six and nine liters when flushing. The mounting frame is finished with decorative materials in the form of panels. During the entire installation process, it is necessary to monitor the tightness of each element.

The drainage tank is connected to water. A drain button is installed in the false wall in pre-prepared holes. The flush button is double, so the system is dosed and allows you to select a full or partial flush mode of three or six liters, or six and nine liters when flushing. The mounting frame is finished with decorative materials in the form of panels. During the entire installation process, it is necessary to monitor the tightness of each element.

All plumbing elements are installed on the frame, starting from the flush cistern with toilet bowl to the siphon. The drainage tank is connected to water. A drain button is installed in the false wall in pre-prepared holes. The flush button is double, so the system is dosed and allows you to select a full or partial flush mode of three or six liters, or six and nine liters when flushing. The mounting frame is finished with decorative materials in the form of panels. During the entire installation process, it is necessary to monitor the tightness of each element.

Which type of toilet is more profitable?

From a financial point of view, installing a compact toilet cistern is considered more economical and simpler; all fasteners are included in the kit; you need to check their availability when purchasing. If you install the tank in a mounted or hidden model, you will need to purchase additional fasteners yourself.

How to replace an old cistern

How to properly carry out the work of installing a new tank in place of the old one?

How to disassemble a toilet cistern: instructions on working with various structures

How to disassemble a toilet for repairs

Most malfunctions are related to the draining and filling mechanisms. To eliminate such damage, you need to disassemble the tank. So first let's look at how this is done.

How to remove the cover

In old-style toilets with a plastic tank, the lid is held on by latches and removed by moving upwards. Sometimes you additionally have to pry off its edges with a screwdriver or other sharp object.

In modern compact toilets, the lid simply lies on the cistern and is secured only by a button. Therefore, to remove a part, you must first unscrew the rim of the button counterclockwise and remove it.

In some toilet models, the mechanism with the button is secured with a screw, which is hidden inside. In this case, pry off the top of the button with a sharp knife or thin screwdriver, and then unscrew the screw and remove the button.

There are also drain mechanisms equipped with a rod with a handle that rises up. To remove it, you need to lift the ball and unscrew it counterclockwise, holding it by the rod.

How to remove drain fittings

First, you should turn off the water at the entrance to the toilet tank, and then grab the flush mechanism with your hand and, turning it slightly counterclockwise until it clicks, lift it up. Sometimes there is a lock on the fitting that needs to be removed before removing the mechanism.

To replace the drain valve with fittings of a different design or manufacturer, you need to completely remove the mechanism, including the seat. To do this, you need to remove the tank and unscrew the large nut from the bottom.

The side-connected fill valve is very easy to remove. It is enough to remove the cover and disconnect the flexible connection, and then unscrew the fastening nut from the outside and pull out the mechanism.

It is more difficult with the bottom connection fittings. First, remove the flexible line and the tank cap. Then wash off the water and remove the drain valve. Next, unscrew the nut that secures the filler valve from below and remove it. If the water has not completely drained, it is better to substitute a basin or other container so as not to spill everything on the floor.

How to remove the tank

In old-style toilets it is plastic and can be removed quite easily. First, turn off the water supply and wash off the residue, and then lift the lid and unscrew the screws that secure the tank to the wall. After this, unscrew the flexible hose and the drain socket nut at the bottom of the tank.

Tank drain device

If you need to repair a toilet cistern, the first thing you need to do is examine the internal structure. The installed tank may have a top or side water supply, but this factor does not in any way affect the constituent elements of the system. So, the tank intended for draining water consists of:

housing, which can be installed on the toilet (compact toilet), mounted into the wall (used for wall-hung toilets) or located on the wall above the toilet. To install the tank on the toilet, a special rubber gasket is used;

O-ring for installing the tank on the toilet

The body of the tank, which is part of the compact system, is attached to the toilet with special bolts located at the bottom of the tank. Fastening is done through sealing gaskets;
A release lever is installed on the tank, designed to flush water into the toilet. The lever can also be made in the form of a button;

Drain tank equipped with a flush button

when the release lever is pressed, the flush mechanism begins to operate, in the lower part of which a special valve is installed that does not allow water to flow into the toilet when not working;
after the water is drained, a float is lowered to the bottom of the tank, which is responsible for determining the water level in the tank;
if the water level is insufficient, the float opens a certain tap (in some designs an inlet valve), through which water enters the tank.

Internal fittings of the toilet cistern

To gain access to the internal fittings of the tank, you need to remove the cover of the device. It is usually secured with a trigger lever.

Adjusting the shutter button

For the shutter button to work, it needs to be calibrated. This can be done by repeatedly selecting the height of the button mechanism, and then tightening it and checking the level to see if the button sits tightly on top and at the same time returns when you press it back to its original “not pressed” position. The height calibration of the button mechanism must be adjusted through the top (usually blue) mount, as shown at the very beginning of the article. When the button is pressed, the lower mount is lowered, which lifts the rubber bolt at the bottom of the tank to allow water to flow into the toilet and returns back when water is drawn back into the tank. It is this that needs to be calibrated so that the tank is tightly closed with the lid on top of the release button.

Adjustment and repair capabilities

During the operation of the toilet, various minor problems arise from time to time. You should not immediately run to the store and buy new filling for the tank, since some problems can be solved in no more than half an hour. In this case, it is not necessary to invite a specialist and pay him money, but just try to do it yourself.

A quick and 100% way to eliminate a leaking toilet cistern

Watch this video on YouTube

How to adjust the water level in the tank

In devices with a bottom water supply, it is always better to adjust the water level after installing the toilet, since they are all adjusted at the factory to the maximum level, which may turn out to be redundant and uneconomical. To adjust the level in the drain tank, it is enough:

Drain the water from the tank and also turn off the water supply.
Unscrew the button.
Remove the cover.
Adjust the height of the float using a special screw located at the top of the float mechanism.
Close the tank with a lid and install the button.

There are cases when, after installing a toilet, water constantly flows from the tank. This indicates that the water level in the tank is high enough and water flows through the overflow system. In this case, it is necessary to reduce the water level by lowering the float using the technology described above.

Setting up the fittings in the cistern

Watch this video on YouTube

If the float mechanism consists of a curved lever, then the water level is adjusted by bending this lever, which is even simpler

It is important to understand that the lower the float in the tank, the less water it will hold.

By bending the float lever we change the water level

Toilet cistern leaks

Water leaks in the toilet are possible even if the water level is normal, but then you will have to look for other reasons. Water may leak if:

The sealing rubber of the drain valve has silted up, so it will have to be cleaned. To do this you will have to:
Turn off the water supply and drain the water from the tank.
Remove the water drainage mechanism.
Remove the bleed valve and carefully inspect the gasket. If necessary, it is cleaned or sanded with fine sandpaper.
Place the mechanism back into the drain tank, turn on the water and test the device. If this does not help, you will have to replace the gasket.

How to fix a water leak from a toilet tank, HOW TO REALLY SAVE SUPER WATER!

Watch this video on YouTube

The release mechanism was demolished during operation. This is easy to check; just press the mechanism with your hand. If the water stops flowing, that means it is so. In this case, you can make the glass heavier by adding a little weight to the bottom of the glass. Adding a weighting agent

In any case, you will have to disassemble the mechanism, and then reassemble and check it. If these little tricks do not help, then it is better to buy a new drain mechanism and replace the old one with it. In fact, this is the best option.

Leaking in the toilet drain hole

Watch this video on YouTube

Water does not fill into the tank

There is also a problem that water does not fill into the tank at all, or it does, but rather slowly. If the water pressure is normal, then the reason is obvious - the filter, tube or valve is clogged. The way out of this situation is quite simple and boils down to cleaning the filter, tube or inlet valve. To do this, you will have to completely remove the water supply mechanism, and then reassemble everything as it was.

You can see how to do this correctly in the video.

What to do if water does not fill into the tank

Watch this video on YouTube

Rules for caring for plumbing fixtures

In order for your plumbing fixtures to serve for a long time and not fail at the most inopportune moment, it is important to take care of proper care of them. Products made from sanitary ceramics require regular cleaning, and this should be done using special chemicals.

They contain caustic alkali, which destroys accumulated organic deposits and removes rust. The cleaning product can be easily purchased at any hardware store.

However, it is not recommended to clean sanitary ceramics with products based on soda and other abrasive substances. They scratch the surface, which leads to the formation of tiny scratches on it. Dirt and rust accumulate in them quite quickly, so repeated cleanings will have to be carried out more often. Over time, it will no longer be possible to clean the plumbing fixtures.

Problems with the toilet flush mechanism often arise due to clogging by impurities present in tap water. To prevent contamination, it is recommended to install a coarse filter at the entrance of the water supply system to the apartment. This will significantly increase the trouble-free service life of all home plumbing fixtures.

Recipes for homemade adhesives

For gluing porcelain and earthenware, you can prepare your own compositions from the following components (optional):

1 part glass to 2 parts sifted sand. Then add 6 parts sodium silicate.
1 part lime to 2 parts chalk and 2.5 sodium silicate. After mixing, the composition must be applied immediately.
1 part turpentine to 2 parts shellac. After mixing, the composition must be heated and then cooled. Before each use, the mixture should be melted over a fire.
The gypsum is kept in alum for 24 hours. Then the composition is dried, calcined and divided into several parts. Next, each piece is diluted in water until a creamy mixture is obtained.

It is recommended to apply the above compositions to problem surfaces immediately after preparation.

Common problems

Proper installation and careful operation are essential conditions for long service life of the system. Repairs to the Cersanit toilet installation are caused by violation of the rules, hard water with a large amount of salts.

Splashes from the toilet bowl

Partial splashing of water when flushing onto the floor, walls and legs causes discomfort. Over time, drips appear on decorative coatings. The reason for the too powerful flow is an unregulated flush. The problem is typical for rimless toilets, especially when combining bowls and installations from different manufacturers.

You can fine-tune the volume by adjusting the keys or by installing a special flush limiter.

Constant leakage of water from the tank

Sometimes, some time after installation, water begins to “run away” from the tank, which increases monthly consumption. In place of a thin stream, dirty yellow deposits that are difficult to remove are formed. The cause of the malfunction is a loose bottom drain valve gasket, which is hampered by dirt or deformation due to natural aging.

The cuff that has lost its shape and elasticity is replaced. To clean the mechanism, you can press the flush button several times.

Continuous filling of the tank

If the water flow does not stop when the float is in the extreme position, it is necessary to dismantle the filling valve for inspection. A clogged mechanism just needs to be disassembled and washed. If damaged or prolonged use, replacement is necessary. The condition can be assessed by external inspection - the old intake mechanism is covered with a dark coating of water.

The flush button does not work

For mechanically controlled keys, faults are associated with the rocker block or pushers. The malfunction is solved by replacing an element that can be easily removed/installed. For pneumatic buttons with a hydraulic lift, silicone hoses may become deformed and fly off.

Source

Features of covers of foreign models

If you have a toilet, you will need a flathead screwdriver to remove the lid. Under the button you will find a nut. Unscrew it with a socket wrench and remove a small container that looks like a cup. It is held in place by pushers, and if you press them at the same time, the cup rises up. Once it is at the top, carefully remove the lid and set it aside.

The cover of the model is removed as follows: first, unscrew the two buttons, then the screw. You will need a Phillips screwdriver for this. After removing the glass, the lid can be easily removed. If you bought a “respectable” toilet from, you need to press the button inward, find the groove and pull out the structure using a flat-head screwdriver. At the bottom you will find a plastic nut that also needs to be unscrewed.

Installing fittings

A new mechanism for the flush tank is selected in advance. This takes into account:

height and volume of the tank;
location of the water supply hole;
location of the hole for the button or lever.

Fitting kit for installation Source moskva.meduzza.ru
Place the housing of the drain mechanism into a clean tank lying on a flat surface, having first unscrewed the lower mounting nut from it and installed an elastic sealing ring on the pipe. A plastic nut is screwed onto the thread of the stand from the outside of the tank. Screw it in with your fingers until it stops, then tighten it slightly with a wrench. Do not overtighten the fasteners - the plastic may burst.

A new sealing ring is placed on the toilet bowl shelf - it should be located around the drain hole. The surface of the shelf is first cleaned of dirt and wiped dry.

New bolts with elastic gaskets are inserted into the mounting holes inside the container to ensure the tightness of the connections. The drain tank is placed in place without leveling yet. It is necessary to insert the bolts into the mounting holes of the toilet shelf and screw the nuts on them.

The next step is to level the tank and tighten the nuts with a wrench. It is important to tighten the fasteners gradually and alternately, sometimes right, sometimes left, to avoid skewing the tank.

Installing and fixing the tank Source fb.ru

Next, install the side or bottom supply valve of the drain tank, having first put the o-ring on the pipe. The mechanism is also secured with a nut located on the outside of the tank. A flexible water supply line is connected to the inlet valve; the threaded connection is sealed with fum tape.

Before connecting the flexible line, it is advisable to briefly open the water supply to remove rust particles and other debris from the pipe that got there during dismantling.

After connecting the flexible line, turn on the water to check the tightness of all connections. If necessary, fasteners are tightened with a wrench. Then they check the operation of the mechanisms and adjust the fittings so that the system functions properly.

Before installing the cover, the mechanisms are checked and adjusted Source calgary.isgreen.ca

At the final stage, the lid is installed and the button is put in place - just screw the ring around it with your fingers. After final testing, the tank is completely ready for use.

Basic faults

The number of faults varies depending on the complexity and equipment of the plumbing, but in most designs the following options appear:

Water constantly leaks from the tank into the toilet, and there is no way to turn it off.
The water pressure at the outlet is not strong enough or is absent altogether.
The drain mechanism is out of order and does not respond to third-party attempts to activate it.

The tank is constantly leaking

The most common problem is a tank leak, when water constantly leaks out, preventing the tank from filling to the required level. There may be several reasons for the breakdown:

the float that regulates the water supply process has failed;
The locking device has failed, causing a gap to form in the exhaust valve.

The problem is not serious, but annoying, since the toilet constantly makes noise while filling with liquid.

No water pressure at the outlet

The water pressure directly depends on the amount of water collected in the tank. If the float fails, it may begin to turn off the mechanism earlier than expected, preventing the tank from filling to the required volume. In this case, the problem is eliminated by adjusting this part.

In old mechanisms, it is enough to bend the wire to which the float is attached upward. In new designs everything is a little more complicated, but the problem is still solvable. If the float is ok, check the drain hole. It may be clogged.

Uncontrolled drain mechanism

The most annoying problem. Eliminating it will require a significant investment of time and effort. The fact is that if the drain mechanism fails, it is difficult to determine the problem without sufficient experience and education. In this case, there is only one way out - call a specialist or buy a new part.

Adhesive recipes

Now on the market there is a sufficient amount of professional materials and ready-made glue for ceramic restoration.

There is no need to invent a bicycle when you can buy a ready-made product that is optimally suited to the given adhesion parameters - resistant to water, vibration and other mechanical loads.

You can glue the toilet with epoxy resin, seal the seam with silicone sealant or liquid welding, and attach the broken part using industrial-type BF 2 glue. Using a ready-made adhesive composition, you will save your time and get a high-quality result.

Filling a crack with epoxy resin

Epoxy resin is one of the most effective and reliable compounds for sealing seams. As a rule, two-component polymer epoxy is available for sale - the kit includes two containers containing a hardener and a filler.

To prepare, you need to mix both components in one, clean glass, ceramic or metal container. Mixing is carried out in accordance with the recipe specified by the manufacturer on the product packaging. After mixing, the composition needs to sit for some time.

The gluing process itself is carried out as follows:

The crack is thoroughly cleaned of debris and contaminants;
If the chip is large or deep, you can try to treat it with sandpaper folded in half using the edge of a folded sheet, after which you need to clean the surface again with a brush;
The gap is treated with acetone or alcohol to remove fats and other chemical contaminants, and dried with a napkin;
Next, you need to cover the clean gap with epoxy. When applied, it is better to immediately remove excess epoxy protruding outward with a napkin;
After drying, which can take from 30 minutes to 4 hours depending on the type of material, the surface must be treated with sandpaper with the finest grain.

If the work is done correctly, the gluing will withstand contact with water, and the toilet will last for a long time without leaking. The seam will not be as noticeable as when processing with other materials.

Bonding cracks with silicone sealant or cold welding

Silicone caulk can be found at hardware stores. It is sold in flexible tubes of various sizes, including small tubes. This is exactly the kind of sealant we will need to save our budget on materials. Cold welding can also be found at hardware stores. In appearance, it is an elastic material of a metallic color.

If you are in doubt about the best way to seal a toilet, then both of these materials have the same effectiveness and strength of connection. Cold welding is more noticeable on a white surface and, after its application, it may be necessary to tint the treated area with acrylic moisture-resistant paint or moisture-resistant varnish to match the earthenware.

Bonding cracks and chips is done as follows:

The surface is carefully sanded and cleaned of small fragments;
Degreasing is carried out;
Apply silicone sealant - for work it is better to use a flat plastic spatula, which can be used to carefully apply and level the paste. Excess is removed with a napkin;
After drying, the treated area is sanded with sandpaper.

If cold welding is used, then preparation for fixation is carried out in the same way as with sealant. Before applying, a piece of cold welding must be kneaded well so that it becomes soft like plasticine. It is better to do this with gloves, as it gets your hands dirty.

After the cold weld is ready, it is applied to the seam, pressing it with your fingers so as to fill any voids. The excess is cut off with a flat knife. After 4-5 hours, the surface can be sanded to level it and covered with white paint to hide visible defects.

Procedure for opening different types of cisterns

To remove the tank cap you will need a screwdriver, pliers and a knife.

Some clay tank models allow you to easily remove the lid because the flush button is not attached to the flush mechanism. However, there are other options for tanks, which will require a little work before removing the lid.

There are toilet cisterns with release handles. You need to be extremely careful when disassembling these structures. If at least one element is damaged, difficulties may arise in further work. Before you begin to disassemble such models, you must close the cabinet door with valves, if any. If the drain control lever is located on the side of the tank, and there are no additional buttons/levers on the lid, you just need to lift it and remove it.

If the design of the tank involves draining water by pulling up a rod passing through the lid, you should unscrew the ball located at the end of the rod. Then you can open the structure in the above way.

Less convenient for disassembly are tanks controlled by buttons rather than by rods/levers. However, due to the fact that such models provide additional capabilities (for example, flushing at will - for three and six liters of water), they are beginning to be in increasing demand. To remove the cover with the button located on it, you must first unscrew the tube located around the button or two semicircular buttons. From the outside it looks like a ring. If instead of two buttons there is one that can swing in both directions, you first need to pull it out.

Diagram of a cistern with an open lid.

However, even after these steps you will not be able to remove the cover - you will only be able to slightly move it upward. This is quite enough to rotate the lid so that it is positioned across the body of the toilet cistern. Having positioned it in this way, you need to unfasten the latches of the push-button assembly and remove the cover along with it.

To prevent the lid from interfering with the process of opening the cabinet door with valves, it should be removed and placed in a place where it cannot be touched or broken. If the lid breaks, you will have to replace the tank, since it is not sold separately. Before replacing the float or the valve controlled by it, it is imperative to open the door, shut off the flow of cold water and close it again. Otherwise, there is a risk of flooding due to the tank overflowing.

Afterwards, it is recommended to check it in operation several times without the lid. Make sure that the valve closes every time when the float is raised. Only after such a check should everything be reassembled in reverse order.

As can be seen from the activities described above, removing the toilet tank lid is not particularly difficult. You just need to understand each specific design. In this case, disassembly of the drain mechanism must be carried out strictly according to the instructions. It is always included with the purchased toilet.

It's important to remember that taking something apart is much easier than putting it back together. If it so happens that the instructions are missing, you need to remember with particular precision the sequence of disassembly and arrangement of parts

Removing an old toilet cistern

A number of outdated toilet models are still in use. It is necessary to repair battered products more often due to significant wear of their components. But the owners of such structures do not have to think much about how to repair or remove the toilet cistern, due to the extremely simplified design.

View of the mechanism inside the cistern of an outdated toilet model. Float control system and traction control for drainage. The tank is also attached from below with two bolts. The top cover can be removed easier and faster than on new models

So, to dismantle the same cover, it is enough to twist the handle on the drain mechanism rod and unscrew the plastic (or metal) washer nut. Under the lid inside the tank there is a float mechanism for collecting water and a lever-valve drain mechanism. The valve system of such a mechanism is usually attached to the tank through two additional holes in the bottom.

The tank itself of the old design is removed in the same way as is done with new models. It is necessary to unscrew the two bolted connections in the area of the bottom of the tank. The passage area for water from the storage tank to the bowl on old toilets is isolated with an ellipsoidal sealing ring. Often in older systems there are overflow tubes secured at the bottom of the tank with a plastic nut.

Some models of flush tanks are equipped with mounting screws with screwdriver heads. But it is recommended to traditionally disconnect such fasteners by unscrewing the nuts from below. This prevents the gaskets from becoming deformed. The screwdriver is used only to lock the screw from turning.

To dismantle the lever-valve drain mechanism, you will need to unscrew two more bolted connections that secure the drain mechanism's rocker arm. The water supply module is dismantled by unscrewing just one nut from the outside of the tank body.

First, you need to disconnect the water supply hose from the storage valve. It should be noted: there are models of tanks with water release levers embedded in the side wall. On such devices, the toilet lid is not secured at all - it simply lies, resting on the walls of the body.

Malfunctions that force you to disassemble the tank

Typical malfunctions that force disassembly are often:

leakage during flushing in the area of the gasket at the connection between the tank and the toilet bowl;
leakage in the places where the storage tank is attached to the toilet shelf;
dysfunction of the drain mechanism;
dysfunction of the water collection mechanism.

Leakage problems are often eliminated by simply tightening the fastening nuts. The functionality of the drain and set mechanisms may be impaired due to insufficient water pressure in the centralized system. Therefore, before you start disassembling, you should make sure that there are no other possibilities for eliminating defects.

Defects in functional fittings

If there is an involuntary flow of water from the reservoir into the toilet bowl, most likely the lock ring is defective. It needs to be replaced. The same effect can be observed when the closing mode of the mechanism does not work. A possible reason is that the control button is stuck.

Insufficient filling of the container with water indicates some defects in the dial module. Often the cause is the displacement of the float on the limit bar or its contact with other parts of the mechanism (the wall of the tank). A complete lack of drainage is possible due to a non-working dial module or drainage mechanism.

Design of various drain mechanisms

A water release mechanism is installed inside each drain tank.

Today there are several varieties of this design:

Lever. It is a lever that, when pressed, activates the release of water into the bowl. Mounted in separate toilets, in tanks with an upper and lower location.
Pneumatic. The trigger mechanism is activated by pressing the button of the pneumatic chamber, which is connected to the release valve using a flexible air duct.
Stock. To open the drain valve, it is necessary to lift the vertical rod, which is located on the top of the tank lid.
Push-button. The drainage mechanism in this model is started by pressing a button on the lid of the drain tank. There are two-button variations, in which one of the buttons is responsible for draining half of the tank, the second is responsible for draining all the water in the tank.

All tanks are filled with water strictly to a certain level, after which their filling automatically stops.

Lever mechanism for draining water. Used most often in old models of flush cisterns or in antique-style design devices

Depending on the method of supplying water to the tank, valves of different types can be built in. Floatless valves can be bottom or side.

In this case, the design contains a special chamber, which in appearance resembles an inverted glass.

The operating principle of the device is based on Archimedean force. It changes its value depending on the degree of filling of the tank and changes the position of the chamber that shuts off the water supply.

The side float valve is either a diaphragm or a piston type. In any case, it shuts off the water when a certain volume of liquid enters the tank.

All reinforcement can be presented as independent interchangeable elements or as a single structural set.

Toilet cistern with bottom water supply. The most trouble-free and silent option, therefore it is especially popular in city apartments

According to the type of connection of the water supply fittings, all drain tanks are divided into two groups.

Lateral. The liner is connected on the right or left. The tank is usually equipped with two holes. The non-working part is covered with a special plug. The main disadvantages of such tanks are considered to be noise when filling the container with water and an unaesthetic connection to the water pipe, which cannot be disguised.
Lower ones. The water supply pipe is connected from the bottom of the tank. This way you can hide the water fittings. In addition, when filling the container with water, minimal noise is created.

Each type of flush cisterns finds its consumers and is used in various models of toilets.

Damage not related to fittings

It is important to know how to repair the cistern or the toilet itself if cracks appear in the body. Leaking water can cause a flood, so if a problem is discovered, you should act immediately. Ceramic glue will help seal the crack, but the plumbing will have to be replaced in the near future.

A leak may also occur if:

The nuts on the bolts that secure the tank to the toilet have come loose. The fasteners must be carefully tightened with a wrench. If the seals need to be replaced, the tank will have to be removed and reinstalled.
The connecting cuff between the tank and the toilet shelf is deformed or damaged . It must be replaced, but as a temporary measure, the resulting gaps can be sealed with silicone sealant.